Published: November 8, 2009
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In this article I would like to share some set up tips for Slot.It Porsche 962's. Some of you may recall the article on setting a car up for the 2009 Scaleracing Slot.It challenge where I showed the easy installation of the anglewinder motorpod and set up. Taking the same car and using it as our test model.
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Published: September 19, 2009
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Having an adjustable voltage regulator for each lane lets you tune the lanes for equal lap times and to tame those overpowered cars. An added bonus is that it also adds voltage regulation if your power supply does not have it. This article describes how to fabricate your own adjustable voltage regulator including a list of parts required.
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Published: September 19, 2009
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Well, it has taken a while to write this article and I know the subject was covered in the forum by Rolltidevet, but seeing as I built this car to race in the Manufacturers challenge that was run at 132Slotcar Raceway, I'd share the set up and results of what I have done.
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Published: August 1, 2009
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Now that we have the bulk of scenery/landscaping in place we can now look at some details that really make the “scale” track become a realistic world in which to race. Start out with the basic components you see at any race track. Skid aprons, guard rails, retaining walls and road striping are all common elements you can incorporate into your scale racing world. We will start up here with skid aprons and guard rails.
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Published: June 13, 2009
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There was a time when building a Tyco was very commonplace. Now that the market has evolved and new and better equipment has now taken its rightful place in the market, the Tyco finds itself a part of the Mattel Corporation an out in the pasture. It's still possible to build a decent running Tyco though. What we are going to attempt is to build a TPP Tyco adaptation of the Tyco narrow Chassis "HK" that I personally used to successfully compete against the mighty SG+ that was the dominate chassis of that period of time.
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Published: April 16, 2009
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Go to any race track in the world and the busiest place to watch are the pits. Race teams’ plans, dreams and schemes are executed in this one area. Mechanics, drivers, owners, reporters and fans are all drawn to this place. Actions of the pit crew can take someone from 5th to 1st or the other direction just as fast. Adding this and other structures can bring the “feel” and “life” of the racing world to your scale layout.
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Published: January 20, 2009
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This is a brief article on how to build or convert an existing Slot.it car to the specifications to be eligible for the Scaleracing Slot.it Challenge 2009. The concept is to have cars that are similar in technical specification so the emphasis is on the driver and not who has the deepest pockets or the best tuning abilities. In this article I will assume that you will already have a Slot.it Group C car in your possession and it will be considered the donor/conversion car.
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Published: January 4, 2009
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Following on from building the Slot-It F40 I just had to build the Fly Racing version. This car arrives in a kit form similar to all the other Fly Racing models and the newly released F40's. From the top of the box through the clear window you can see the partially assembled chassis and the F40 racing livery.
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Published: January 2, 2009
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Well I took the plunge and purchased the Slot-It F40 from my local slot car pusher! Like all Slot-It products this is well presented with an image of the car and all the parts on the outside. A clear window to see the body of the car in the supplied presentation case which makes me wonder why no one has complained they don't get a “sleeve” for the case not that it matters to me as my F40 is heading to the track no shelf queen here!
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Published: December 17, 2008
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The picture on the left shows the body being test fitted after the 1st layer of tape was added. Take note of the size of the gap. This mount will take one additional layer of tape to make a secure mount. The picture on the right shows the removal of the protective paper from the 1st layer of tape. Don’t remove this until you are ready to apply the second layer of tape. This will reduce the chance of dirt or accidently touching the tape and reducing the adhesive “stickiness” on the surface.
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