Building the Scaleauto 1/24 Audi R8LMS GT3 White Kit – SC7044 (Part 2)
Now we start the paint and assembly process.
Just to make sure this article is a little more exciting and helpful than watching paint dry, I'm not going to show all the paint process but more of the assembly.
When painting any of the white kits I build I always wash the parts in warm water and some dishwashing liquid. Rinse them in warm water and air dry. Drying them with a cloth can leave fluff on the body. Using a tack cloth before spraying helps keep the finish clean, although looking at some of my pictures I have a ways to go in the painting department!
Small parts awaiting primer. For small parts I stick them to bluetak(Prestik) to keep them in place while painting.
Another great way to hold small parts and they are available from the local dollar store.
Primer applied to the body and a few smaller parts, while others wait for there turn.
Some of the parts after applying Tamiya primer.
Body after paint, it will eventually be one of the Playstation liveries.
I started off with assembling the interior first. This is a multi part assembly and like building any kit - make sure you dry fit the parts first. Nothing is worse than gluing parts together and finding you either missed a part or have the sequence of assembly wrong.
Starting backwards here is the completed interior with all the part #'s.
After racing these 1/24 Scaleauto cars I have realised that during assembly some parts need to be glued in place as well as having the tabs melted down.
This part on the drivers body needs to be trimmed down in order for the helmet to fit snuggly.
Sorry for the blurry picture, besides working on my painting I have to work on my photography. I placed a liberal dollop of shoegoo where the driver is positioned. This helps secure the driver, seat and interior together.
Shoe gooed the dash assembly to the interior just ensure it is crash proof.
Shoe goo the engine bay and detail to the interior. Make sure you assemble the engine detail first otherwize the mounting pins will be in the way. The line show where the pins line up with the holes in the interior.
Fitting the rear glass can be done before or after part #18 has been installed. Test fitting the parts gave me the correct orientation for this part - the rollcage passes through the opening. Before final assembly I will paint the heat welds black so they aren't noticeable.
Moving onto the body
Took a while to figure out where this part went and to be honest the molded part is disappointing. The position for the hole is angled to the body but the part is at 90degrees to the mounting tab. The Scaleauto BMW M3 GTR parts are much better.
I took some artistic licence painting the front headlights. You will also notice I didn't take my own advice and test fit all the parts prior to gluing. The eagle eyed reader will notice the the bare metal grill missing from behind the grill.
Melted the mounting tabs for the radiator but it isn't very secure so will put shoe goo in the marked areas.
Where all the mounting tabs need to be secured. I also recommend using shoe goo before taking this car to the track.
The assembled rear section, if you look closely you can see the bare metal parts in the rear fenders.
Inside view of the rear mounting tabs. In the ones marked not secure, the pins do not pass through the holes in the part so it is very flimsy. Liberal amounts of shoe goo will be needed.
I used some super glue to fasten these grills in place.
I put some shoe goo where the panels get mounted, using just the mounting pins could cause them to come off in a big impact.
Mount #44 before fitting the side panels.
Assembling the wing the mounts are super glued in place then melt the mounting pin. Shoe goo will be used to strengthen the wing and mount before racing.
Finished front with the grill installed. I shoegood the whole grill in place to support it an accident.
Finished rear prior to clear coat and fitting the clear parts.
Ready for decals and clear coat.
Part 3 will cover decalling and final race proofing.