Building the Scaleauto 1/24 Audi R8LMS GT3 White Kit – SC7044 (Conclusion)
Time to get some decals on the body and finish this project off
Painting is all done and it's time to put the decals on. I ordered decals from Patto's, they are waterslide and very good quality. It is the first time I have ordered 1/24th scale decals and it appears that there is no margin for error. With the 1/32nd scale decals there are usually a few extra decals incase you make a mistake. I'm not sure if the change is just for 1/24th or if it will be the same with future 1/32nd sheets od decals.
There are a couple of errors on the decal sheet when compared to the pictures of the actual car. The windscreen banner is for the wrong car/race, it should be Grand Tourismo in black. The decals for the side sill are too long, I had to remove BILSTEIN from them in order for them to fit. There is an HR decal for the rear that is missing and the Audi sport is too big to fit on the front fender where it should be. Finally the R O W E Motor Oil on the front GT logo shouldn't be there for the car this is modelled after. All that being said I am very happy with the quality of the decals.
I normally print off reference pictures to work from but decided this was easier, cheaper and more enviromentally friendly?
Applying decals I normally start from the front and work to the back.
The Hella decals are also a little on the large side.
The Playstation on the rear wing is too small and should fill the whole wing.
The Decals look nice and crisp. If I ever do a black livery again I will clear coat before applying the decals, I think it will give a better finish.
Once the decals are applied and clearcoated it is time to install all the clear parts. I started with the front glass and then the rear glass.
Here the glass is in place with the 4 tabs in the roof melted in place, be careful not to melt the tabs at the front as they hold the dash in place. I found it easiest to line up these tabs first and then the ones in the roof.
I have put some Shoe goo on the glass inside the roof just to give it a bit more strength.
Showing where the rear clear part lines up and the tabs need to be melted. I also put a bead of clear safe glue where the glass mounts, this is to strengthen the bond.
Installed the antenna and melted the tab. You can see the decal doesn't blend properly which is why I think clear coating before applying them might be the way to go. Installing the glass and antenna is necessary before putting the interior in.
The big hole in the middle of the dash is where the windscreen wiper is installed.
The chassis supports are specific to each side of the car due to the recessed curve in the plastic. Makes for a tight fit but I still secured it with super glue and Shoe goo.
Here's where all the front lights go. They are tabs melted at the back. I found it necessary to ream out the holes where headlight covers go in as the holes were a little small.
These holes for the rear lenses had to be reamed out in order for the glass to fit properly.
All the interior parts have been "race-proofed" with shoe goo.
Front parts all "race-proofed" with shoe goo, I think in a hard impact some of them could break loose if you just rely on the melted tabs.
Chassis support and interior shoe gooed into place. Be careful not to get glue on the bottom side of the chassis support as this will upset how the body sits on the chassis.
I find it easier to mount the T-bar and chassis part to the body and then set it up to fit the chassis properly.
When fitting the brake discs and calipers make sure the detailed side is to the outside.
The final product looks like this
Just a couple of things to close with when setting up the chassis for racing.
If you are running on a routed track you will need to flip the guide holder over. The problem is it doesn't fit easily into the chassis, it can be forced in and I don't think it will have any effect on performance.
When setting up the axle carriers and bearings you want to take the wheels off and hold the chassis at 90 degrees
You want the axle to slide as freely as possible through the bearings. If there is any resistance or binding it will create friction and reduce performance.
You will want to mark where the spur gear sits on the axle so you can put a flat on the axle which will stop any chance of the spur slipping.
You will want to put loctite on all the screws holding the guide holder and plate as well as the axle carriers.
You'll also want to put shoe goo on the nuts holding the body plate and H-plate in place.
Besides using a soldering iron and my spray gun here is the selection of tools and glues I used to assemble this kit.
There are more photo's of the assembly of this kit in the gallery. I hope this pictorial has helped give an insight on how to assemble this kit without any major issues.