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Straightening the 962 a/w frame

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  • Straightening the 962 a/w frame

    Well, I finally got around to opening up the a/w conversion kit that I "purchase from this very boutique not 'alf a month ago". Lotsa goodies. But, I discovered that the frame is slightly bowed upwards in the center.
    My solution: put the frame in one of the wife's disposable aluminum pans, put weight on the frame to flatten it out, fill the pan with boiling water until the frame is covered, let cool.
    Sound alright?

  • #2
    We straighten all BRM Chassis.

    We have found for best Racing Results we need to straighten the BRM chassis, they are flat in regard to axles but when ejected from the injection molds it does bow the center of the chassis a little.
    We pin down the chassis with magnets to a flat metal plate then place in a glass baking dish, we can do 2 chassis at a time this way.

    Next one of two methods are used, if you have a kettle pour boiling water over the chassis until completely submerged and at least 1/4" over the top of all parts. Warm an oven to 275 degrees F then place the tray into the center of the oven and allow to sit for 15 minutes.
    Turn off the oven and allow to cool overnight then remove, clean off the chassis and dry and you will have a flat BRM chassis.
    Second method we have used if you do not have a kettle available pour hot tap water over the chassis till completely submerged plus at least 1/4" over all parts then place in an oven at 275 f for one hour, then turn off the oven and allow to cool over night.

    Once done the chassis stay very flat, and it certainly makes the cars easier to set up.

    We pay a lot of attention to the fact the cars sit on a tech block flat with all 4 tires touching, the fronts very lightly. Fine tuning can be done with the front axle adjuster, please pay attention to the position and adjustment of the grub screws and take caution to not over tighten as you can easily strip the threads on the uprights, metal grub screw, brass bushing and nylon chassis it is obvious that the first thing to strip or break will be the uprights.
    We do not tighten the grub screw to clamp the front axle bushing leave a fraction of play and make sure the front axle turns freely.

    Also if modifying the early Porsche cars the interior ears that rest on the front uprights of an inline chassis are ground off. Also we prefer to fit the latest guide with BRM guide spacers and you may need to lengthen the motor wires.

    Hope this helps, questions please ask.

    Die Cut weights are coming soon to tune the chassis, we find a minimum of 180 grams ( minimum legal BRM Challenge weight ) really helps, stock a Porsche will be about 160 grams.
    If you run the Black motor then nearer 200 grams we find optimum, but every track, and driver will prefer a slightly different set up.

    See you at the Races!!!!
    Last edited by Scaleracing; 11-05-2014, 06:41 PM.
    Alan Smith
    SCI Owner.



    • #3
      I was looking into buying a flat piece of steel- would 1/8" x 6" x 12" be a good size and thickness?

      also- when you say "pin down the chassis", how exactly do you do that? c clamps??


      • #4
        Originally posted by sportblazer350 View Post
        when you say "pin down the chassis", how exactly do you do that? c clamps??
        I use the stack of magnets I have pulled from slot cars. I end up stacking a bunch on but it works well. I also will put them on the backside of the piece of metal, opposite to the location of the chassis side magnets, to give them a little more tension.

        Heat the oven and water, dump it in, and let it settle... I had one very bowed chassis and the technique straightened it right up.



        • #5
          I'd recommend a 1/4" piece of flat stock.
          Bear in mind that just because it's steel that it's not necessarily flat. I had my two pieces cut at a local fab shop. They used a sheer, which left a nice burr on the ends, plus a wee bit of a taper. A file took care of the burrs.
          Also, one side is dead flat while the other has a slight inward bow to it. I used a quality square to check flatness, then marked the 'good' side with a Sharpee.

          For magnets, I use old AFX SRT traction magnets and some flat round "super" magnets that I picked up at the local Lowe's.
          I place as many magnets as I can on each chassis when flattening them.
          I also place a folded over paper towel in the bottom of the Pyrex dish before inserting the flat iron. The towel keeps nasty rust marks off the Pyrex.

          Finally, check for any raised lettering on the bottom of the chassis.
          I don't know about the BRMs, but some of the 1/32 cars I worked on had raised lettering and ribs that needed to be sanded off before flattening.

          Good luck.


          • #6
            I used an old Skill saw blade.

            There is thread somewhere about using the top of a slot car display case as the container and some magnets on both sides.

            On website there are or used to be instructions on how to do this. Cool down period is the key.

            I put the pot on a folded towel then covered and wrapped in more towels and went to bed.


            • #7
              Yeah, this seems like what every slot racer has handy... Guess I won't be converting mine any time soon.


              • #8
                We are happy to supply straightened chassis

                It is not difficult to straighten a BRM Chassis, but we are always happy to straighten them for you.
                Let Scott or I know and we can sell the conversion kit with an already prepared chassis.
                Alan Smith
                SCI Owner.



                • #9
                  Originally posted by Tangmere222 View Post
                  Guess I won't be converting mine any time soon.

                  How much effort do you put into tuning any car? How much effort does it take to find a flat piece of ferrous metal? Someone even gives you a source... Should you need to have to do it? Maybe not. Is it an insurmountable obstacle? Certainly not.



                  • #10
                    Question guys. Do you sand off the raised lettering on the bottom of the brm chassis before flattening them.


                    • #11
                      The latest chassis have no lettering.

                      The angle winder chassis does not have lettering. On the inline I have filed off the lettering on some I have straightened, not all. Works both ways. Also look out for rear defuser detail on the inline Porsche, I have filed that off on some chassis to straighten. But also straightened without changing the detail and no problems here.

                      Happy to help if needed 1-253-255-1807
                      Alan Smith
                      SCI Owner.



                      • #12
                        Thanks Alan.