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Carson DPR chip observations

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  • carlosinseattle
    started a topic Carson DPR chip observations

    Carson DPR chip observations

    Just chipped a new Scaley Camaro with a Carson DPR chip. The car won't work in the pit lane. The Carrera cars work but the Scaley Carson chipped car doesn't work. Has any one else had this problem? If so what can I do to fix it????
    Last edited by carlosinseattle; 01-09-2018, 10:01 AM.

  • myared
    replied
    Yeah, no such instructions in the newer sets...

    Leave a comment:


  • b.yingling
    replied
    Originally posted by anthonyalonso View Post
    I think this method is explained and shown in the instructions that came with your sets!!
    If you bought an old set- one that came with a Black Box, it will be in there. If your set is from the last 8 years or so and came with a Control Unit, it likely doesn't explain this method of coding cars.

    Leave a comment:


  • anthonyalonso
    replied
    I think this method is explained and shown in the instructions that came with your sets!!

    Leave a comment:


  • myared
    replied
    Tried it last night... Oh man, even better than sliced bread!

    Thanks guys. Please keep those tips and tricks coming...

    Leave a comment:


  • myared
    replied
    Glad to know I'm not the only one who didn't know of this trick...

    Leave a comment:


  • DRW-FJ40
    replied
    Yes, that's nice. I didn't know you could do that.

    Leave a comment:


  • myared
    replied
    Oh man, this is a great trick! I'm trying it as soon as I'm back home today. Thanks guys!


    Hey, what other tricks do you veterans have up your sleeves? I don't want to derail this thread so is there one dedicated for such tricks that aren't publicized by Carrera (at least as far as I know) for some reason?

    Leave a comment:


  • b.yingling
    replied
    That's what makes this so useful- the only thing you need are you, your controller, and the car(s) you're running.

    You don't have to get to the CU, you don't need any other drivers to stop, you don't need to move from your spot. Just place the car on the track, click twice, lift/replace, and click twice.

    Leave a comment:


  • MrFlippant
    replied
    Don't press the code button. The car+LC*2+lift+replace+LC*2 is all you need.
    the other cars on the track are not effected.

    Leave a comment:


  • myared
    replied
    Originally posted by b.yingling View Post
    Before the CU came out, back in the dark old Black Box days, it was the *only* way to code cars.

    You place the car on the track, squeeze your controller's lane change button twice, lift the front end of the car from the track and replace it (you just need to quickly break the braids' contact with the rails), then squeeze your lane change button twice once again.

    The timing takes a little practice, but it's pretty much the only way I code cars. Using the CU just seems clumsy and cumbersome to me: Have to make every one stop, have to walk over to the CU, have to remove every car from the track except the one you want to code, then push the buttons, then replace all the other cars on the track, then (maybe) walk back to your controller position.

    So to be clear, with the CU you can have cars running on the track, and at the same time place another one on the track, press the code button, press the lane change button of the controller twice, lift the car's braids off the track for a second, place the car back on the track, press the lane change button twice again, and the car is coded to that controller with the other cars running on the track not affected?

    Leave a comment:


  • b.yingling
    replied
    Originally posted by myared View Post
    You can code a car when other cars are running on the track, with the "double tap" method?! How does one execute the double tap method?


    Thanks.
    Before the CU came out, back in the dark old Black Box days, it was the *only* way to code cars.

    You place the car on the track, squeeze your controller's lane change button twice, lift the front end of the car from the track and replace it (you just need to quickly break the braids' contact with the rails), then squeeze your lane change button twice once again.

    The timing takes a little practice, but it's pretty much the only way I code cars. Using the CU just seems clumsy and cumbersome to me: Have to make every one stop, have to walk over to the CU, have to remove every car from the track except the one you want to code, then push the buttons, then replace all the other cars on the track, then (maybe) walk back to your controller position.
    Last edited by b.yingling; 01-22-2019, 06:17 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • myared
    replied
    Originally posted by carlosinseattle View Post
    Just had a race this past weekend and noticed one other thing that's different about the Carson chip.

    You can't do the double tap method to code cars when other cars are racing on the track. With Carrera OEM cars you can doe any car any where when other cars are running, but not with the Carson chip. Not sure if that's because of the Scalextric wiring or the firmware in the chip, but we always had to use the CU code button to code cars.

    You can code a car when other cars are running on the track, with the "double tap" method?! How does one execute the double tap method?


    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Drewbert34
    replied
    For some reason I could not edit my original post...

    I've also tried:

    Guide length
    Guide depth

    Leave a comment:


  • Drewbert34
    replied
    Carson chips sputtering / stuttering / cutting out.

    A very, very strange issue...

    We currently run 4 Carson chipped Scalextric cars (2 x Trans-am / 2 x Nascar) and never had 1 issue. The cars ran beautifully.

    Eventually, the stock Scaley guides would either not trigger lane changers, or they just weren't deep enough / wide enough of a guide for good competition.

    With no other changes, I swapped the guides to slotting plus, and that's where the nightmare began. Simple, you say? The problem is the guide braids or lead wire!...nope. I've tried every braid, lead wire configuration (remember, all was fine prior to guide change), etc. to include soldering the lead wire directly to the braids!

    Eventually, Trans-am cars have smoothed out and run flawless; however, the Nascars continue to be a nightmare. I've swapped harnesses, chips...you name it! I've shimmed the guide up, down, every adjustment I can think of.

    The only conclusion I can come to is this:

    We run magless. Currently, The Trans-am's handle better than the Nascars in turns. They tend to slide smoothly when breaking traction and the front ends don't bite too hard, causing that front end bounce we all know (if not using independent front ends). The Nascars are not as smooth and have more bite both front and rear. If the car tilts or bounces enough to disrupt the braid contact...even the slightest...the car stutters for at least 1/4 to 1/2 a lap before it regains it's composure.

    I've tried:

    Different braids /lengths of braids
    Different lead wires (both Scalextric / Pioneer with and without Ferrite man)
    Different motors
    Different chips (known working well in Trans-am

    I've concluded that, for no mag racing, the Carson chip is too particular to braid contact / rail & braid cleanliness. I've never seen a more difficult car where 20 + other cars have no issue.

    I'm betting an adjustable front end solves the issue. If I can think to, I will try that and report back.

    Of final note, the exact same car, part for part (have swapped from one to the other) has zero issues. The only difference is my backup car still has the stock Scaley quick change braid plate and nightmare cars do not.

    Leave a comment:

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