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Cars Converted to Carrera Digital

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  • Chris - Thanks for answering about the lights. I haven't tried putting lights in my Slot.its yet.

    Spraggih - Funny thing about the spoiler. There's a black one underneath the box, which I guessed is intended to be more sturdy for racing. I tried to figure out how to remove the blue one, and broke the tiny red bit off in the process. (Grrr.) Never did figure out how to remove the blue wing. With that little piece gone the support strut is more flexible; I'm hoping it will give a little and not break in a crash. Haven't driven it that hard yet to find out.

    I also need to get some bushings and grub screws so I can lower the front wheels. The Jagermeister 962 has reversible bushings that let you lower the wheels so they touch the track. No such luck on this car. They both have the new Evo6 chassis.

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    • Originally posted by ottawaslotter View Post
      Lights are tight fit in the front as you have to route the led wires away from the wheelwell so the tires don't rub and keep them away from the guide so they don't bind when the guide rotates but testing the way you route the wires before you hot glue them in place solves that problem, keep the wires tight against the body helps,rears are easy job.
      Chris

      thanks bud!!!
      lights are integral to me!!!

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      • Originally posted by DrumPhil View Post
        Latest Slot.it chipped last night to run on Prairie Winds Raceway. Installing the chip was standard - Slot.its are pretty easy. The annoying part is having to cut off the bottom half of the interior and the driver's legs.



        Already had urethane tires to fit, as they are the same size as previous Porsche 962 tires. All I need to do now is remove the magnet and add a little weight.

        My wife took one look at the beautiul blue livery and fell in love with it. She said, "I'll drive that one."

        Tip: to buy more cars without getting in trouble, buy your wife's favorite color.


        Keep it in the groove,
        Phil
        Phil

        Before cutting the interior again, just cut the legs of the capacitator (barrel) and solder it in the same position with wires. You can relocate the guy in that way. That provides you a lot of space. It is very easy and there is plenty of space to solder the wires over the chip and in the legs. I just cut the legs of the capacitator, I do not desolder it more. Piece of cake.

        Also, you can just cut the white switch of the analog/digital switch as AL does, or you can cut the 3 legs that keep the full swith attached to the chip and do a small soldering to transform the chip in 100% digital. In that way you do not have to do another hole in the chassis to have to chip 100% flat.

        These 2 steps are really very easy, no desoldering and what you have to solder is really big.

        NICE JOB !!!!!

        DANIEL

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        • Thanks Daniel. Moving the capacitor/barrel would have helped a little (I bent it forward this time to a more open spot). But I still had to cut off the seats and driver's legs because they were hitting the main part of the chip. I glue the chip on top of the motor pod screw points, so it sits fairly high. But that allows the chassis to work as it is designed.

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          • Phil,
            I just sent you a PM on the interiors.
            Al

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            • I just finished my first conversion...an SCX NASCAR. The car works, but seems to slow down a little (bind maybe) in the corners, especially the 1/60. I noticed the guide on the SCX is much narrower and shorter...would this be the cause of the slowing? Another possibility could be the guide is shifting to one side of the slot going around the corner causing the braid on one side to not have as much contact..causing lower power.

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              • Originally posted by OpelRacer View Post
                I just finished my first conversion...an SCX NASCAR. The car works, but seems to slow down a little (bind maybe) in the corners, especially the 1/60. I noticed the guide on the SCX is much narrower and shorter...would this be the cause of the slowing? Another possibility could be the guide is shifting to one side of the slot going around the corner causing the braid on one side to not have as much contact..causing lower power.

                could there be something obstructing the guide to make a turn and thus slowing down?

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                • Try brushing the braids out flat (needlenose work by pulling braid out gently) and wide at the ends with a slight curl out towards track and then bend them out slightly into a bit of a V shape so they reach out wider so they cover the wider rails of carrera track. SCX are all like this on carrera and you have to work the braids into this shape to get good contact escpecially in curves. HTH.
                  Chris

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                  • You guys are awesome on this forum...thanks! I'll give it a try tonight.

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                    • Originally posted by OpelRacer View Post
                      You guys are awesome on this forum...thanks! I'll give it a try tonight.

                      Thank you OpelRacer.......I knew I am awesome

                      Daniel


                      PS: Oh.......sorry you were talking about the other guys ?

                      I want to sing "......don't cry for me Argentina....." you all know that song from the movie Evita. Well, I want to cry because I arrived at 6:30 PM at home and for the last 2 hours I was feeding 3 parrots, 3 dogs, watering plants......etc etc......and I have just a sandwich as dinner. My wife flew today to Argentina to visit her mother. I will be 10 Days alone and I doubt I will be able to play with my toys with all the things I have to take care. Don't ever never underestimate your wife work at home.

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                      • blown chip

                        It seems I have blown a chip in my endeavor to add lights as described below. I am not sure exactly what occurred here. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

                        After chipping (27632) a digitally upgradeable Carrera car I decided to put lights on it. I used lights from an older 25000 series car that I was using for parts. It had 4 individual lights each with 2 wires and soldered separately on the board. After cutting those off I stripped them and did a splice test on the track. Starting with the headlights I twist attached the two positives to the positive wire and the two negatives to the negative wire on the chip and then place on the track and they worked. I then did this for the taillights and they worked as well. I soldered them and put liquid tape on the splices. I later put the chassis on the track and did some test laps and everything worked fine. The next day I affixed the taillights in place using silicone as I had no glue sticks for my hot melt gun. I checked the taillights for their position and brightness on the track so they would setup with optimum brightness. After setting up I placed the car on the track with the body lay by its side for verification and it still looked good. I decided to slide the body over the chassis (no screws) and placed it on the track for a lite test run. The lights lit up and then everything went dead before picking up the controller. Now when I place it on the track one of the black elements (small black rectangle) on the chip nearest the wires for the brushes gets hot.

                        My questions are:
                        Are the lights drawing to many volts for the digital chip to handle in the way I have spliced them (no resistors or diodes etc.)?
                        Did a short of some kind occur when I pushed the body on?
                        Or least likely; was there a flaw in the chip in the area of the lights, as I had chipped car and run the car for some time prior to this addition of lights?

                        TIA, Jim

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                        • This has happened to me. I tried using the lights I purchased from EBay, and after a half a lap car just went dead and when placed on track it would wind up and overheat.. I'm not
                          Sure what caused it but it happened to me..

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                          • If you don't know what voltage and amperage they are they could of overloaded, you could also have broken the connections at the chip when you put the body on or if the connections on the board are poorly done and there is too much copper exposed where they were soldered to the board as they bent over with the body going on the exposed copper could have overlapped each other and shorted out. Check the two light connections at the chip to see if one side broke or if the wires are crossed. I have tried leds rated at 30ma and 10ma instead of the correct 20ma
                            and one works only by itself and goes off when another set of correct amperage leds are connected and the other burnt out after a few minutes. Leds have to be the correct voltage and amperage to work off the chip and you have to know what ratings you're using.
                            Chris

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                            • Here's another conversion with a twist and it's for Al this time. Al and I have these scalextric ford focus rally cars that can't make it around the track without deslotting and I've tried all the tricks to get mine to work and gave up. I had 3 carrera ferrari 575 chassis donated to me from slotbutton and I found the wheelbase and wide flat chassis were perfect for this car and I ran the chassis by itself to verify it handled ok and was a decent runner and liked it enough that I decided to modify it to fit the scaley focus, the front axle was moved ahead 1/8' with brass tubing, chipped and the chassis cut down to fit the scaley body nice and clean. Front driving lights and headlights were added and rear brakelights. With trued urethanes this thing is a blast to run, handles great and is more than competitive with my other rally cars.
                              So there you go AL hope you like it and I promise to do an even better job on yours when it arrives, since I used mine as the test vehicle!

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                              • Nice job on the Ford! What kind of tool do you use to cut the brass? I have some but I always press the brass too hard when cutting it.

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