Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cars Converted to Carrera Digital

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    I had read that thread, but forgot about it.
    I'd like to have a Pioneer, maybe next. I like seeing the different car types, how some are better than others, how they run against others. This is a SCX nascar I chipped last night, runs well, really just like one of the Carrera's. I like the way the chassis pivots around the motor pod but the way the braids make contact to the connectors seems a little sloppy might hve to add some solder there, overall a nice car .





    Comment


    • #47
      Originally posted by Burtonbr View Post
      I had read that thread, but forgot about it.
      I'd like to have a Pioneer, maybe next. I like seeing the different car types, how some are better than others, how they run against others. This is a SCX nascar I chipped last night, runs well, really just like one of the Carrera's. I like the way the chassis pivots around the motor pod but the way the braids make contact to the connectors seems a little sloppy might hve to add some solder there, overall a nice car .





      Where did youi get your connectrs for the wires, I am still hard wiring my cars. Would like to find clips like you have to make it a little easier and be able to pull the chip if need be.

      Comment


      • #48
        Has anyone ever chipped a car with a chassis like this:

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally posted by Quicktap View Post
          Where did youi get your connectrs for the wires, I am still hard wiring my cars. Would like to find clips like you have to make it a little easier and be able to pull the chip if need be.
          The few I have I got from a pile of spare parts I bought that had several different wired connectors in it. I found the connector plugs that can be bought once online but figured I wouldn't be able to install the very small pins in them so I hard wire most too.

          dferry: I don't see why you couldn't chip a chassis like that. I would think it would need an insulator between the brass and chip, like double face foam tape. I think Bibbster shows something similar back in post #41 that would probably work fine.
          Last edited by Burtonbr; 05-14-2011, 12:26 PM.

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by Burtonbr View Post
            dferry: I don't see why you couldn't chip a chassis like that. I would think it would need an insulator between the brass and chip, like double face foam tape. I think Bibbster shows something similar back in post #41 that would probably work fine.
            Thanks, I never thought about insulating, my main concern was drilling the holes for the LED and switch.

            I want to make a 1/32 wing car which can run on my track and the local one. Turns out 1/32 wing cars races are their most popular race.

            Of course much like not knowing about insulation, I don't know what limitations I have with motors on my track (I have the standard 14V digital transformer with the new CU
            ). That chassis pictured comes with a Super 16D while most at the track run JK Hawks. I know even if I can run those on my track that there is little value of the wings, but still, it would be fun.

            Finally, I still haven't decided if I want to chip the analog cars I want or rig up my track with the ability to run analog. Sigh....decisions decisions..., more money more money

            Thanks again for pointing me back to that link.

            Comment


            • #51
              I'm right there with ya.. alot about slot cars I don't know, but I would think if the motors you talking about are 12v they would run fine but I don't know what a Super 16D or JK Hawks is.
              and I know what ya mean so many decisions and money spent in this hobby can be unlimited, I was thinking about rigging up my track to run analog too but don't know if i'ts worth the trouble for what little analog I would run.

              Comment


              • #52
                Normally those 16D and others motors like the TSRF ...etc will run perfectly at 14V in you Carrera analog track. BUT the issue is the AMPs of the power supply. Those motors use 2-3 AMPs. I am running those cars in my analog track. My chassis are the ones that you have to solder the motor to the brass.

                In the analog track you can use a varible PS of 10 AMPs and you will be in great shape because you are running only 2 cars. The standar power supply provided by Carrera do not have enough AMPs to support those motors.

                The digital Carrera track do not support more than 7 AMPs. When I was told that I understood that I will be able to run 1-2 brass chassis chipped car with 16D or with my TSRF motors and probably never more than that.

                I did not have time yet to chip the 1/24 and 1/32 brass chassis I have. Neither I have chipped a car from scratch beside a digital ready Carrera car that took me 5 minutes because all was done in that car.

                Bottom line: I still need to proof myself that I can chip a car and after that I will try all my old brass chassis club cars. As soon as I have 3 or more chipped I will place a BB in my analog track and will see if it is able to handle those motors without frying. I have 3 extra BB that nobody wants to buy so I will use them in my experiments.

                Cheers
                Daniel
                Last edited by slotcardaniel; 05-15-2011, 04:38 AM.

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by slotcardaniel View Post
                  Normally those 16D and others motors like the TSRF ...etc will run perfectly at 14V in you Carrera analog track. BUT the issue is the AMPs of the power supply. Those motors use 2-3 AMPs. I am running those cars in my analog track. My chassis are the ones that you have to solder the motor to the brass.

                  In the analog track you can use a varible PS of 10 AMPs and you will be in great shape because you are running only 2 cars. The standar power supply provided by Carrera do not have enough AMPs to support those motors.

                  The digital Carrera track do not support more than 7 AMPs. When I was told that I understood that I will be able to run 1-2 brass chassis chipped car with 16D or with my TSRF motors and probably never more than that.

                  I did not have time yet to chip the 1/24 and 1/32 brass chassis I have. Neither I have chipped a car from scratch beside a digital ready Carrera car that took me 5 minutes because all was done in that car.

                  Bottom line: I still need to proof myself that I can chip a car and after that I will try all my old brass chassis club cars. As soon as I have 3 or more chipped I will place a BB in my analog track and will see if it is able to handle those motors without frying. I have 3 extra BB that nobody wants to buy so I will use them in my experiments.

                  Cheers
                  Daniel
                  Thanks Daniel - I'm not sure I'll ever run more then one 16D type car on my track at a time so it sounds like I might be fine.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by 02m3smg View Post
                    Great thread. Anyone convert Ninco or Autoart?
                    I just finished a Ninco Lamborghini Gallardo conversion with an older model chip harvested from a Ford Mustang.

                    Here is the stock Ninco anglewinder chassis with the wires cut at the motor. I removed the circular magnet from just in front of the motor as I did not want any contact with the underside of the chip.


                    Here I am testing the connections. You can see the holes cut in the chassis as well as the wiring. Lights were already connected from the Mustang.


                    Here the chip is mounted using a bit of 3M foam double sided tape (3 layers). I have yet to hook up the lights. That will be a bigger challenge than the chip, I think, as the rear matches up with the LED board, but the front lights are wider apart than the LED board.


                    The car runs smooth, but a little noisy even after grease and oil. It's my first Ninco and anglewinder so I don't know if that's normal or not. I'm also currently running without magnets. The cars slips and slides all over my track. It's actually kind of fun. Never run no mag before.

                    Hope this helps anyone converting a Ninco. It was pretty easy. This was only my 2nd conversion. (3rd if you count a chip that died on me!) Now to align those lights with the body...

                    Oh, and the best part is I did not have to modify the interior of the body before mounting it back to the chassis. The chip fit under the driver insert perfectly!
                    Last edited by Gizmo; 05-18-2011, 03:00 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      looks good Gizmo, it's nice when when you dont have to modift the interior. looks like a good runner.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        These pictures are very helpful. Let see if in the following days I find the time to do my first project.

                        This is a little bit out of the topic, but I would like to know how do you post these nice size pictures. When I do my postings with "web size pictures" they are all smallers.


                        Thank you
                        Daniel
                        Last edited by slotcardaniel; 05-18-2011, 05:30 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by slotcardaniel View Post
                          This is a little bit out of the topic, but I would like to know how do you post these nice size pictures. When I do my postings with "web size pictures" they are all smallers.
                          I resize all my photos to a width of 650, then upload them to the albums in my profile on this board. Then use the "BB code" provided under the image. (you can use the same code for images loaded to other photo sites like flickr, photobucket, etc.)

                          I use the code below, except replace the parenthesis () with brackets []:
                          (IMG)http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/portal/forums/picture.php?albumid=1079&pictureid=20838(/IMG)

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Dead chip?

                            the wire came off from the chip awhile ago. I tried to solder it back on and i failed. That was my first attempt at soldering. Im 30. Any how, since then I have gotten a little bit better. SO I thought the chip was dead. I would get a "short" sound coming from the bb. I read somewhere in this thread that the "chips" are pretty darn tough. How do you know when the chip is dead? Can I remove old solder and try again?




                            Comment


                            • #59
                              First time I saw a digital chip I thought to myself, ohh these are pretty fragile and figured I'd toast a few before I got it right but I have been pretty rough if them so, I sure would give it a try before discarding the chip as dead.
                              I really abused my first one also, broke off the wires for the motor and the braids, had to make several attempts before getting the reattached clean. a couple of times the car would make a few laps then stop completely. I though it was dead 3 different times. the last time it would not reset, so I set it aside and about an hour later it worked and has ever since.
                              Now the second one I put in a Evolution upgradeable car did a lap then started smoking and that little square chip on the left of your last picture melted and came off the board, I blame that on a faulty chip though and the seller was very helpful and replaced it free.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Can I remove old solder and try again?
                                DucatiDern in your last picture it looks like where the power wires were soldered to the board, that the solder on the board may be shorting the two together. I would try to remove the solder and resolder the wires. You may have already fired the chip, but it is worth trying to fix it.
                                In the first picture you can see where the grey and purple wires are attached to the board this is where in your pic it looks like the solder bridges the two spots. If possible I try not to solder on this side of the chip.

                                Randy


                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X