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  • Originally posted by carlosinseattle View Post
    Just wanted to mention that the little ferrite bead and capacitor arrangement was crucial to the survival of the Scalextric digital chip. A chip would fry pretty quickly without the "ferrite man" arrangement that includes both the ferrite bead and the capacitor. I have no idea how the Carson DPR chip will work without the "Ferrite Man" arrangement. Just thought I'd warn you. You can search the Scaley digital section on this form and on the SF forum for more info.
    Chips never "fried" from the lack of a ferrite man. The noise generated by the motor, and sometimes from the rails (braids shorting when crossing lane changers, mostly) would confuse the chip, causing it to lose it's ID, and on older chips, go off at full speed because it thought it was on an analog track... but not FRY it.

    Just wanted to clear that up. If anyone can show me a thread that indicates that a lack of a ferrite man is the cause of a chip's complete and catastrophic failure (e.g. "fried"), I would like very much to see it.

    I'm glad that it's not such a need for Carrera/Carson chips. Carrera is well known for their robust engineering.

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    • BRM 1/24 Conversion

      ScaleAuto and BRM 1/24 cars on no magnets and foam tires have long been a favorite on our analog Carrera tracks. We would love them on our digital track, with Professor Motor power and slot it controllers.

      I moved the LED close the to guide, so these drifty cars do not miss switch sensors and to preserve the lovely full depth interiors.

      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxk...ew?usp=sharing
      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxk...ew?usp=sharing
      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxk...ew?usp=sharing
      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxk...ew?usp=sharing

      The conversion was fantastic. Was... It was blast for several 10 lap tests, but went up in flames in a 20 lap run. I knew this was likely, as these motors draw more amps than 1/32 cars.

      I used a 26740 F1 decoder chip as they were are and hand and are my usual choice for converting cars without lights. I presume the Carrera 1/24 decoders have higher capacity as the Carrera 1/24 cars draw much more amperage than the 1/32. I think I will try a 20762 decoder. They appear much more robust. Has anyone tried this? Is there a better choice?

      Is there an aftermarket decoder with a higher capacity chip? Carlson?

      A heat sink on the chip might also help, so I am looking over my scrap electronics box for heat sinks that could be adapted.

      I assume the limit on this conversion would be the number of cars that can be run on the 8A control box. We can run 6 Carrera cars with the TMS motor conversion, so I hoping to run 6 BRM or Scaleauto with their stock motors...
      Last edited by Nomad2Race; 07-05-2017, 04:09 AM.

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      • Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
        Chips never "fried" from the lack of a ferrite man. The noise generated by the motor, and sometimes from the rails (braids shorting when crossing lane changers, mostly) would confuse the chip, causing it to lose it's ID, and on older chips, go off at full speed because it thought it was on an analog track... but not FRY it.

        Just wanted to clear that up. If anyone can show me a thread that indicates that a lack of a ferrite man is the cause of a chip's complete and catastrophic failure (e.g. "fried"), I would like very much to see it.

        I'm glad that it's not such a need for Carrera/Carson chips. Carrera is well known for their robust engineering.
        Hey Greg, I just saw this post. Do I have to remind you that in your presence I blew 4 scalextric chips because I didn't have the ferrite man installed? You were there for at least 4 chips blowing; at my house, yours, and I think Dave's house. I had the capacitor installed but no ferrite beads.
        Last edited by carlosinseattle; 07-05-2017, 08:23 AM. Reason: spelling

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        • Originally posted by Nomad2Race View Post
          .....
          The conversion was fantastic. Was... It was blast for several 10 lap tests, but went up in flames in a 20 lap run. I knew this was likely, as these motors draw more amps than 1/32 cars.

          I used a 26740 F1 decoder chip as they were are and hand and are my usual choice for converting cars without lights. I presume the Carrera 1/24 decoders have higher capacity as the Carrera 1/24 cars draw much more amperage than the 1/32. I think I will try a 20762 decoder. They appear much more robust. Has anyone tried this? Is there a better choice?

          Is there an aftermarket decoder with a higher capacity chip? Carlson?

          A heat sink on the chip might also help, so I am looking over my scrap electronics box for heat sinks that could be adapted.

          I assume the limit on this conversion would be the number of cars that can be run on the 8A control box. We can run 6 Carrera cars with the TMS motor conversion, so I hoping to run 6 BRM or Scaleauto with their stock motors...
          You will definitely be fine if you use the D124 chips 20762 and 20763. And for some reason the f1 chips have been most prone to overheating. I've always thought that was because of limited airflow through the tight bodies. Maybe there is something different about the chips from other D132 chips.

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          • Originally posted by carlosinseattle View Post
            Hey Greg, I just saw this post. Do I have to rimend you that in your presence I blew 4 scalextric chips because I didn't have the ferrite man installed? You were there for at least 4 chips blowing; at my house, yours, and I think Dave's house. I had the capacitor installed but no ferrite beads.
            Apparently so, because I don't remember that. Without being able to go back in time to see each incident, or examine the car in question, I will still have a hard time believing that chips "blew" (e.g. they would no longer work in any car, or exhibited clear signs of damage) ONLY from the lack of a ferrite bead. I posit that it's more likely that there was some other issue at work, which was inadvertently resolved by installation of the bead, especially since blowing a chip is usually caused by shorts or overloading, and installing a ferrite bead would have required the cap to be removed and re-soldered. Was this the bead on the motor, or the guide? If on the motor, it's VERY common for a bead-less capacitor to short on the motor itself. That would have blown the chip quite quickly. Heck, I've seen bad jobs from China doing the same thing even WITH the full ferrite man.

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            • Originally posted by Nomad2Race View Post
              https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxk...ew?usp=sharing

              A heat sink on the chip might also help, so I am looking over my scrap electronics box for heat sinks that could be adapted.
              Such a catastrophic blowout would not be a heat issue. That was straight up high load and the mosfet burst into flames because of it. Definitely get a D124 chip, or 3rd party chip designed for higher loads (don't know what that might be, just saying). If that only happened to one car, and you have others of the same kind that have been running well, then it could also have been a defective chip.

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              • The F1 Chips do appear to have smaller Mosfets. I though perhaps this was related to having no lights. I only did the one test because I Expected failure in a high amp car. The Mosfits on the 1/24 chips are much larger. I will test those soon.

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                • Originally posted by Nomad2Race View Post
                  The F1 Chips do appear to have smaller Mosfets. I though perhaps this was related to having no lights. I only did the one test because I Expected failure in a high amp car. The Mosfits on the 1/24 chips are much larger. I will test those soon.

                  Here's a whole thread on 26740 mosfets vaporizing - i would definitely go with the D124 chip if you have space for it


                  http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...ad.php?t=74784

                  Ed

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                  • Yea, the F1 chips are known to be the most fragile of all Carrera chips. Even if you can't fit the 1/24, one of the 'other' D132 chips may still work better. Although there do seem to be reports of the new, smaller 26732 not being as robust as the older version with the longer legs.
                    Last edited by b.yingling; 07-05-2017, 06:38 AM.

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                    • Originally posted by b.yingling View Post
                      Yea, the F1 chips are known to be the most fragile of all Carrera chips. Even if you can't fit the 1/24, one of the 'other' D132 chips may still work better. Although there do seem to be reports of the new, smaller 26732 not being as robust as the older version with the longer legs.
                      Definitely not as robust

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                      • Any installs out there with the mini decoder that is available from Germany?

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                        • Scaleauto Carrera chip

                          So I just installed a chip in my 1/24th scaleauto sls. While I was removing the ir emitter I damaged it, I found some with the same specs on auction site and purchased a few. The only problem is it's a 5mm led instead of 3mm, any ways it works great . I really did not want to drill into the chassis so I just hot glued the led near the guide. By the way just wondering how far back can the sensor be mounted for it to function properly?
                          Last edited by boots; 11-14-2017, 03:39 PM.

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                          • Scaleauto Carrera chip

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                            • Originally posted by boots View Post
                              I really did not want to drill into the chassis so I just hot glued the led near the guide. By the way just wondering how far back can the sensor be mounted for it to function properly?
                              I have about 40 [give or take a couple] D/124 cars, and the longer wheelbase cars [hotrods, C7 Corvettes, Mercedes gt3's etc.] have the led 1 7/8" from the FRONT EDGE of the guide blade and 1/2" from centerline of the car.
                              The shorter wheelbase cars [Porsche 917, GT40, Cheetah] are a little less than that.
                              So I would say 1 7/8". But since you have that one remote mounted and hot glued, you could try it in different spots and see.
                              I for one, would be interested to know how far away they will operate.
                              I can't remember which car it was, but I chipped a car a few years ago and was quite surprised how high off the track the led worked. It seems like it was about 1/8"or more above the chassis. I think it may have been an AMT 1/24th chassis released a few years ago[the one everyone except me hates]
                              Randy
                              Last edited by 32lbKING; 01-14-2018, 12:22 PM.

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                              • Looking at the 2nd pic[in post #1183] I would almost bet that you could just set the chip behind the axle and have the led over the slot in the axle bracket [where it slides to adjust the wheelbase].

                                Another good way of attaching chips so that they are removable is double sided carpet tape. It is very strong and still removable.
                                Randy

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