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Ninco mosler chassis problem

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  • Ninco mosler chassis problem

    Anyone ran into this before...chassis dead flat on table...left axle higher up in car with good bushings snapped all the way in? It's actually quite a bit too or I wouldn't have noticed it.

  • #2
    Way back in the day... When I raced Ninco cars...

    My building has come a long way since I built a Ninco car for racing. Back then I/we did notice differences in the bushing holders. Sometimes the differences were slight and in general the problem could be solved with a little filing or a little exacto knife work. It only took a few minutes. This problem was attributed to how the chassis came out of the mold, and maybe some plastic flashing..

    One of the problems you are not aware of until you diagnose it, is sometimes when a bushing is snapped into the holder, the fit is tight/bad and the chassis will warp. The chassis can also warp when the motor is snapped into the motor cradle. Also look for a cracked chassis at the bushing holder and the motor cradle.

    One of Slot Car Corners original products is a tool to ream out the bushing holders so that the bushings can be fitted properly and then glued precisely in place. This takes time and patience but is worth the effort.

    Since then, way back, when the Ninco Ford GT was released, Ninco's quality did not improve, nor did their designs. If you have some of the more recent releases then I would not at all be surprised if this kind of problem got worse.

    How bad is your problem? One millimeter? more? less? warped chassis?

    It should be easy to measure the height of the bushing holders with digital calipers. If you do not have this tool, they can be found on ebay for about $10, not high quality, but they get the job done. After you determine if it is a bushing holder problem then you can take steps to correct the problem.

    hope this helps
    jon
    Last edited by low tech; 08-20-2017, 04:05 PM.

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    • #3
      Jon, after correcting the problem so that the chassis accepts the bushings and/or motor without warping, would you not then recommend the chassis straightening procedure? Just to make certain it's as perfect as possible.

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      • #4
        Not quite...

        I would straighten the chassis first, using hot water, flat metal surface and magnets method. Then I would work on the bushing holders and motor cradle. Once I felt everything was straight, then I would glue the bushings and/or motor in place.

        At this point, Ninco product is getting old. I would not recommend any of the 'lexan' chassis, they will crack, if they haven't already. The black Ninco chassis can crack as well. There is some back inventory left, but not much.

        For a limited number Ninco cars, there are third party 3D printed chassis. I am currently experimenting with two Mosler chassis made by Sloting Plus. They accept Slot It pods, so some of my cars may be reborn. We shall see how it goes.

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        • #5
          Thankyou both for the advice.....lowtech, the chassis is dead flat even with the bushings in..the difference side to side is the thickness of a pop sickle stick and that's easily slid under. It just appears the bushing mount is higher on the gearing side. I'm gonna see if the reaming allows enough to drop that side.

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          • #6
            That is unusual for that much difference in the height of the bushing holders.

            Which Mosler livery did the chassis come off of?

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            • #7
              It's the orange and yellow Gordon finest beers car.

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              • #8
                Good thread, as I still have several Ninco Moslers, and keep thinking I should make up a house class of them.
                I would be doing exactly what Low Tech says, they'll never be as quick as the flash GTs like NSR, Slot.it, Thunderslot, Scale Auto etc, but they have a something about them.

                One small addition. I would ream both bush holders to a "loose fit",
                then set the ride height using the widest possible spacer under the chassis below the axle holders, eg, 0.75mm; held in place with magnets.
                Let the glued and trued bushes, axle, gear, wheels/tyres unit sit loose in those bush holders, then drip in some good quality glue to lock them all in place. It wouldn't hurt to do a bit of chassis bracing while you have wet glue to ply with; eg, from the drive side bush, to the top of the motor, across the back edge of the motor, then down to the other axle bush.

                That will eliminate the majority of the "Ninco Hop" from twisting, it won't get rid of the end to end torsioning of the chassis.
                Last edited by SlotsNZ; 08-24-2017, 10:34 AM.

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                • #9
                  I agree with reaming the bushing holders. When I say work on the bushing holders, reaming them with the Slot Car Corner tool is part of the procedure.

                  Slot Car Corner made a video of how to use the reamer and set up the bushings. I'm sure it can be accessed from their website.

                  Depending on rules... If allowed i would brace between the motor and rear bushings.

                  I looked at my 'Gordon' Mosler shelf queen. This is the last of the Ninco Mosler's with an unpodded chassis. It uses the standard plastic wheels, neoprene tires and plastic gears. My pinion gear is cracked (at this point I assume nearly all the Ninco anglewinder plastic pinion gears are cracked and unusable). The front axle assembly allows the front tires to stick out beyond the front fenders. And the rear axle assemly is mis-aligned, with one tire outside the fendor and one inside, with lots of slop between the gear and the collar. The chassis however is nearly perfect. If I raced it I would flatten it more. The rear bushing holders are fine, standard faire. Nothing unusual there.

                  So if there is 2~3mm of alignment problems with the axle then I would keep looking at all the possible factors.
                  - bushing fit
                  - warped chassis from tight bushing
                  - warped chassis from tight motor
                  - if chassis warps with body on, then check the body on a setup block
                  - check body on setup block anyway

                  get more technical
                  - check wheel size, make sure they match
                  - check both bushing against each other for size
                  - if you have another ninco angle winder, swap rear axle assemblies and compare
                  - measure bushing holder without bushings in place
                  and so on

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                  • #10
                    It's fixed pretty good now....I had to ream the left bushing mount really deep. Chassis was always flat so that wasn't an issue.
                    I used job weld to glue in the bushings, as I have before in other loose fitting stuff. It's dead on now and I'll put it together with an Nc5.

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                    • #11
                      Glad you got the problem isolated and repaired.
                      Here is my Expense fix but its a real screamer and Beats my NSR Mosler!

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