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Setting up the Ninco Porsche 997...

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  • Setting up the Ninco Porsche 997...

    I have been exchanging messages with Kurt about getting the rear end on my Porsche 997 under control. He has been very helpful but I am thinking we may fill our PM boxes at the pace we are going.

    I am looking to set up one Porsche 997 using the stock plastic wheels with any minor upgrades and another Porsche 997 using metal wheels with any other important upgrades. The track is a Ninco N-Digital track and each car is fitted with a 2 mm thick button traction magnet. So far I have upgraded to ProRace body screws, a ProRace guide and Ninco Super Racing braid. The rear end has a tendency to step out without much warning. The best driving technique seems to be to dive bomb a corner and then be very smooth accelerating off of the corner. I am looking to get the car so it is more forgiving and to increase the rear end grip.

    What Ninco parts do you recommend for setting up each car? If the tires need to be trued down to a certain diameter or the body screws loosened a specific amount, please specify that as well.

    Best regards,
    Last edited by BSWAN72; 03-04-2009, 02:20 PM.

  • #2
    run the EVO 17" narrow rear hubs with 19x10 Shore A25's, and 15" front Evo hubs with 18x10 Shore A25's with bare minimum side axle play...... although on my digital track I've had really good luck with 15" hubs & 18x10 tires all around because the chip weight & smaller tires lowers the CG and ride height......use metric screws and give the body lots of float.
    Last edited by NINCO1; 03-04-2009, 03:57 PM.



    • #3
      Good plan, Brian! We'll also get the Atlanta guys in on this, because the 2007 World Cup used these cars, and Jon, Mark and George ran this car in Germany. They're also running a Monday night series with the GT3's right now with the benefit of the EVO parts on Ninco track. Their experience will be invaluable here.


      • #4
        The Porsche 997 is a difficult car to set up. The space inside the car around the rear axle is the problem. Tires can rub on the body causing hob, sluggishness, wheelies, and random deslots resulting in the car going straiight in a curve. Gears can rub the interior cockpit pan causing some of the same things.

        The rear wheels need to be hubless or have a very short hub like the new Ninco EVO pro race line and not the old Pro Race line with bigger hubs. Other 17mm wheels that fit are Slot Car Corner wheels, Slot It short hub wheels, Slotting Plus wheel, Kai's Wheels.

        It helps if the front wheels are 15's and the tires trued and thined. Slot It 17x10 zero grip is the tires of choice for those who don't want to true the tire. Otherwise start with a 19x10 or 18x10 tire and thin and true it. The Ninco 18x10 Pro Race tire absoluetly has to be trued or it will bounce.

        On the rears we are running spec tires, but as to what you want to do... Using a smaller tire and wheel will give you more magnetic down force from the magnet and motor. It is easier to fit a 19x10 under the fender than the 20.5x11.5 tires. So if you use the bigger tires you must get the tires and gears in the exact place or you will have problems. The 19x10 Ninco Pro Race "treaded" or "ribbed" tire is one of the best of the Pro Race tires. The slick 19x10 Pro Race tires is not true, but running on Ninco track will true up eventually. Standard Ninco tires work very well on ninco track and I would recommend these as well. In Slot It tires the p5's 20.5x11 or 19x10. I would not use 18x10 ninco pro race tires on the rear, they are not true and are very hard, intended to be front tires.

        We have been running two classes of 997s. We are running on Slingshots small track.

        GT2 (closest to stock as possible)
        allowed changes
        - optional prorace guide (sprung)
        - stock tires, wheels, axles, bushings, gears, motor
        - any braids, body screws, wires
        - no magnet or weight
        - no other modificataions

        GT1 (a modified class)
        - stock body and chassis (no modifications to either allowed)
        - nc5 motor
        - gear ratio 2.33/1 to 3.00/1 (any brand)
        - wheels (17 rears, 15 fronts) (any brand)
        - bushings - solid brass or bronze (no bearings)
        - tires (slot it p5 - 20.5x11)
        - axle 3/32 or 2.48mm (any brand)
        - ninco pro race guide (sprung) required
        - any braids, body screws, wires
        - no magnet or weight

        My set up options for GT1
        - fronts - plastic wheels with slot it 17x10 zero grip tires
        - rear wheels - slot it 17x8 short hub (aluminum or magnesium)
        - rear tires - "spec" slot it 20x5x11 p5 (trued)
        - slot it axle and slot it bushings (bushings aligned and glued)
        - gears (first set up) ninco Pro Race EVO 12/32 (easier to set up, more room)
        - gears (second set up) slot it 12/28 (tighter fit - motor pinion very close to tire, tire very close to fender)

        Glueing the motor in would help me, but I am not allowed to do it for this class.

        Hope this helps.
        Last edited by low tech; 03-05-2009, 05:58 AM. Reason: sp


        • #5
          Good tips there low tech.
          One thing I could add to the set up is to bend the motor lead wire post up or down so it doesn't hinder the body from floating. If you don't do this, your body will rub on the motor post.



          • #6
            Originally posted by low tech View Post
            Glueing the motor in would help me, but I am not allowed to do it for this class.
            The motor may be taped though. Not as good as glue, but something.

            Also see some more of Mark's and low tech's comments about the 997 in another thread here:


            • #7
              Low tech,
              great post! Thank you.



              • #8
                Excellent information in this thread!

                It turned out that my controller was acting up and was causing the car to be very inconsistent. I was able to try a lot of different set ups until I found the source of the problem.

                Here is the set up that I am currently using -

                ProRace 17" narrow wheels front and rear
                Ninco 20 x 10 mm tires on the front
                Ninco 19 x 10 mm tires on the rear
                ProRace suspension guide
                Super Racing braid
                ProRace body screws
                1 mm thick plastic washer on the rear body post

                The car is running very good and is a lot of fun to drive set up this way. One reason that I am using the 17" wheels up front is to keep more of a scale appearance.

                This forum is the first stop that I go to for information on Ninco products.

                Best regards,


                • #9
                  Glad you got it sorted
                  Last edited by Mark; 03-05-2009, 08:50 AM. Reason: posted at same time


                  • #10
                    I was going to suggest propping the rear of the body up to gain more tire clearance and more controlled, slower body roll, but I never even drove one of these cars, and I thought it might be against the rules. Glad to see the spacer under the rear body post has made an appearance. I've used #60 O-rings for spacers (1/16" lift, 1.6mm), to get a little cushion; others have slipped a coil spring on the post to absorb some rattle and vibration. But, these things may not be legal in the Ninco series.


                    • #11
                      The 1mm non-metal spacer was an authorized mod, directed by NINCO, prior to the 2007 World Cup, to alleviate the tire/body spacing problem on the 977.