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Car tuning tips for Ninco Track

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  • #16


    • #17

      Fantastic sticky thread! My level of Ninco track and car tuning knowledge just went up about three echelons!! Thanks so much for all you guy's information. I totally dig this hobby, I'm so glad my boys and I got into it. There isn't a day that goes by that they're not asking "Daddy can we set up a slot cars?" Fun times.



      • #18
        That's why it's here.... glad to hear you're enjoying the track. If you have any questions, just post them in the forum!



        • #19
          Tuning out the NINCO "Hop" by racerx132

          From RacerX132....

          I'll chime in and share some of my experiences in hope that it helps. I currently race in Atlanta, ga where we run on painted wood with rubber tires and ninco track. Over time we've learned that the ideas such as "soft chassis don't work as well on wood" or " stiff chassis help or fix hop" are not always true. Also, during my travels to various races around the US, I've noticed that different groups have varying opinions of what works, which brand of cars are junk and which are great. I've heard guys badmouth cars that are some of my favorites and fastest cars I own!

          My point to all of this is while there is lots of great advice to be had here, it still needs to be taken with a subjectional view and don't let advice get in the way of your own trial and error.

          Now, dealing with rear wheel hop can be accomplished many ways. If your not running a sanctioned event with set rules, certainly experiment with different bracing or even changing tires or adding weight. If you are just trying to improve your car on a local track one of the easiest ways to fix hop is to add weight. Sometimes as little as a gram or two can do the trick and you may even find a performance gain as well!

          If you are racing with strict rules that don't allow weight, bracing or modding of the chassis, or heavy gluing of the motor, you've got a much trickier task in fixing hop. In that type of racing you may have to get creative and look at lighter or heavier hardware as the rules allow. Over the years I've made changes in braids, wires, wheels, even the type of screws to change how the car runs. Again, alot of it comes back to weight and the front to rear balance of the car or just having enough weight compared to the available grip and horsepower.

          You could write a small novel on the subject but in summary my best tips would be:
          Always make sure there is not much play between the axle and bushings-just enough to operate freely.
          Softer braids help - especially if the front end is hopping.
          Make sure motor is not moving around as much as the rules allow.
          Adjust body and pod screws while testing.
          Always check for tire or gear rubbing body or chassis. A chassis rub can really upset the car.
          Pay attention to chassis and car set up on tech block. Make sure chassis is relatively flat and moves or travels similar to each side.
          Lastly, attention to detail when building the car!

          Anyway, I hope this helps - especially the newer or less experienced racers.




          • #20
            Hey, what place did mark come in last Monday? Hint: was not on the podium.....

            Sorry mark, had to keep your head from swelling after Jaybirds post!

            All kidding aside, this is the place to get a lot of good tuning advice. The neat thing is most good tuners enjoy sharing the things they've learned and enjoy hearing that it helped someone newer or less experienced.

            I wanted to point out that while you read about some cars being faster than others, you don't get the rest of the facts. Some manufacturers build cars with stronger motor magnets and much lower to the track which greatly increases the magnetic downforce on the track. So when you look at a car like the NSR mosler and say it's the faster car it may make 25 grams of downforce compared to a Ninco Ford GT that's pulling 13 grams. At that point your comparing two different classes of cars. This is a big deal since the magnetic downforce is one of the biggest factors in car performance. That is why we always have set downforce parameters and measure them at every race in our local group.

            Anyway, that's just something to think about when comparing cars....



            • #21
              Lexan chassis set-up.

              Hi, wev'e been allocated the Ninco Acura Prorace with lexan chassis to be used on Ninco track 12v non-mag for a race with hand out motor's/tire's both these being BRM 20,000/shore 22, iv'e only run it on wood/sport track at present without any change to the front axel and noting on these track's with such a rigid chassis I could even drive it without the front wheel's and push it quite hard but as with the earlier post on axel setup are these run tripod also. Another thing is with the ballbearing bush's the rear axel being a very tight fit through them is the idea for the axel to grip the bush and rotate as one then agains't the ballbearing's as I presume all these type of bearing's work, after running for a while there's a change in sound from the car I no it's not one of the quiet's around but with this also the car seem's to be held back as if something's binding then would return to normal again can only think it's the bearing's everything else is running free do these bearing's have any problem's. thank's phil.


              • #22
                Great advice!

                I never tinkered with the screws, didn't even know it did something!
                i am learning a lot!