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ninco power supply??

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  • #16
    I find 17v cuts 0.25 sec lap time from 7 to 6.75sec on an 80 ft track compared to 14v, running one car at a time. Car used was Scalextric Porsche 911 GT3R with magnets.

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    • #17
      newbee with old sets

      Michael and Group,


      I'm trying to get into slot car racing. I have two sets #20115 and #20116 that I purchased years back. I set them up and had poor performance like lack of power on the back part or surges might best describe it. So back then I just boxed it all up and lost interest. Now I'm back and want to try again. I'm reading posts and trying to learn without bugging people with old questions, but my lack of knowledge (ie easily overwhelmed) always kicks in then I'm lost. So long story short/long. If I'm following can I just plug both power sources into one "standard power base" and get better results? You see where this doesn't seem right, or do I need to spend the $50 on the "advanced power base". Also any additional " I'd Do's" would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Todd


      p.s. This is also very hard when I can't seem to answer any of the "random question" needed to post. I just keep trying till it comes back to scaletric.






      Originally posted by mfogg View Post
      Hello carguy55.

      Knowing which power base and power supplies you have would help in answering your questions.

      Standard power base:



      This is the power base that came with most NINCO analog sets along with a 750 ma transformer. The controller connection is via mini phone (stereo) jacks. It has two power connections that can serve as either input or output (e.g.,to power an accessory). It has limited current handling capability but should handle two of the above mentioned transformers without a problem. The real question is how powerful the motors in the cars are and, therefore, how much current they will draw. Also note that with this power base you will not get separate (isolated) power to each lane.

      Advanced power base:



      This is the one that csxgrafix mentioned in his post. It was considered an upgrade to the standard base. It has the advantage of providing separate (isolated) power to each lane and has a little better current handling capability. As previously mentioned, the controller connection is via standard phone (stereo) jacks. So you will need either an adapter (mini-to-standard) or will need to change the plugs on the controllers.

      In either case, if you are using the standard transformer that NINCO supplied with the race sets, you should not have any problems. If none of this looks/sounds familiar then describe what you do have.

      _michael

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      • #18
        If you had a power base problem you'd have the problem all the way round the lap
        Lack of power on the back part of the circuit is not a power base problem, it's a problem with the connections between the track sections. The connections between plastic track sections are prone to giving trouble, and thses problems can be solved by cleaning the contacts and if necessary bending them back to the correct position to give proper contact. Additional wiring (power taps) can also be important on longer circuits. There's more detail on thses problems in another current thread, http://slotcarillustrated.com/portal...497#post944497

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        • #19
          Knock on wood, I have never burned a house or a slot car track using a 12 volt Boat Battery set-up to run the slotcar track. Better off finding a real power supply to make 12 volts and five amps per lane. 4 lanes with 20-25 amps is great. Check out a Pyramid ham radio power or similar source.

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          • #20
            Pyramid is a good choice for tracks in USA, Canada and other countries with a mains voltage is around 110 - 115 volts. There are other makes suitable for Europe, Aus etc. where the mains voltage is around double that.
            20-25 amps is more than enough for 4 plastic chassis cars. If you could find a supply giving 12-15 amps for less money that would be fine but the 20-25 amps ones are often cheaper.
            It's advisable to fuse each lane at 5 or even 3 amps if using one of these power supplies with plastic chassis cars. With standard home set supplies this isn't necessary.

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