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  • Scaleauto lessons learned

    Hello all,

    I just started slot cars a few months ago in December and I recently bought my first Scaleauto (1:24 Jaguar XKR-RSR) to play in a 10 week league. It was my second 1:24 after a BRM. I just wanted to record some lesson learned over the last 6 weeks to share with the others and maybe promote some further discussion. Again, these are not complaints, just me learning how to play with a quality slot car that isn't all plastic.

    1.) Scaleauto 1:24 is absolutely awesome. A top quality machine. Can't wait for the Vipers.

    2.) The wood-style guide that it came with had to be trimmed or replaced to run on the Ninco track as the front "point" would dig into the holes at the bottom of the slot and cause issues

    3.) The rear bumper area definitely needed to be reinforced with shoo-goo or the equivalent.

    4.) Constant use causes the screws to back out if not checked before every race. I had one race where the rear axle mounts came loose and therefore lost power.

    5.) I needed to add nail polish/locktite to the plastic guide bolt as it would constantly come loose and the handling would then go to pot

    6.) I also needed to put a second grub screw into the large gear as the single grub backed out on me twice and caused gear miss.

    7.) I also needed to add additional washers (which others called spacers so I didn't quite get it at first) to the guide mount to drop the guide further into the slot.

    8.) Always have the driver in your back pocket that works on the 4 star-bit screws that are for popping off the body. All other screws in the car are phillips.

    9.) The braids that it came with I had to trim a bit, they were too long and would fold oddly ot push the car to far up and off of the track occasionally.

    10.) Can't wait for the new Vipers.

    - Marshall (noob)

  • #2
    All of this and more needs to be done.

    Hi Marshall,

    Glad you are enjoying the Scaleauto cars.
    Most of what you mention you absolutely have to do before racing a Scaleauto car. They are not supplied ready for the track, in part as it depends on what track your going to race on.
    With any multi screw, nut and bolt type Race Car Loctite is your friend. With any Hardbody type cars so is Shoe Goo. Without Loctite screws will loosen due to vibration, especially on NINCO Track.
    The Guide nut, yes a drop of super glue is recommended to hold tight, and yes like BRM you need to set up guide height and braid length for your track as well.
    We recommend putting a flat spot on the rear axle for the gear, and once you know where it fits I recommend one grub screw only but Red Loctite, all other screws and nuts I use Blue as it is less permanent.
    I recommend removing the body from the chassis with the 4 in board Allen screws not the 4 that hold the chassis mounting plates to the body as you will wear out the plastic body posts. If you do a drop of super glue will repair the threads.

    Thanks for your post, sometimes those already racing Scaleauto forget to advise new drivers as to the prep required to win a race, and keep your car together.

    See you at the Scaleracing Plastic Track National Finals in October!!!
    Alan Smith
    SCI Owner.
    www.scaleracing.com
    www.slotcarillustrated.com
    www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
    www.132slotcar.us

    1-253-255-1807

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Marshall, welcome to the world of SCALE racing: racing 1/24 slot cars that are real SCALE cars. All of your observations are valid points. These "nuts and bolts" type of chassis (e.g. Scaleauto) require that you periodically check the screws and nuts to be sure that they are tight, adding Loctite where needed. Spacers are used anywhere on the car (guide flag height typically, wheel spacing) to adapt the car to each track you race on. The long braids that go beyond the length of the guide flag can cause electrical shorts, so we cut them down to size, just a bit shorter that the length of the guide flag. Keep them flat and clean as well. tighten the nut on the guide flag just enough so the flag is tight, then let a drop of Super Glue over the threads keep it secure.

      BRMs need the guide flag depth adjusted as well, for each different track. BRMs then use their brand of chassis weights to balance the car. BRM offers several different guide flag styles, so there is 1 for plastic tracks, a deeper one for wood tracks.

      Race and enjoy your BRMs and Scaleautos! And yes, I too eagerly await the Vipers, as well as the BRm Porsche 917s.

      Comment


      • #4
        Scaleauto 1/24 Plastic Drivetrain ...

        I am "in" to the Scaleauto 1/24 stuff, as It remains my kitbashing chassis of choice. I still shake my head over the need to finish the manufacturing process for them (no flats on the rear axle ?... sorely needed)

        But my question now, is what is the take on the "new" plastic pinion/ plastic spur combo ?

        Quieter , (I'd guess) , but how is it holding up ?

        Comment


        • #5
          what is the take on the "new" plastic pinion/ plastic spur combo ?
          Plan to race mine in a 2hr sprint next weekend, will let you know how it goes.

          Comment


          • #6
            But my question now, is what is the take on the "new" plastic pinion/ plastic spur combo ?

            Quieter , (I'd guess) , but how is it holding up ?
            Two out of two have eventually come loose during our racing on a tight road course.

            Comment


            • #7
              Plafit racing uses these on heavier cars.

              I ran in the Plafit races in Spain and they use the nylon pinions there and on heavier cars than Scaleauto.
              That said I would recommend you glue the pinion on with some type of glue that will bond nylon to steel. Otherwise, especially with sponge tires on high grip tracks I can see pinions coming loose. Just make sure not to get glue into the motor bearing!!!
              Alan Smith
              SCI Owner.
              www.scaleracing.com
              www.slotcarillustrated.com
              www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
              www.132slotcar.us

              1-253-255-1807

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Scaleracing View Post
                I ran in the Plafit races in Spain and they use the nylon pinions there and on heavier cars than Scaleauto.
                That said I would recommend you glue the pinion on with some type of glue that will bond nylon to steel. Otherwise, especially with sponge tires on high grip tracks I can see pinions coming loose. Just make sure not to get glue into the motor bearing!!!


                So ... How much is that Avant 1/24 chassis ? I'm assuming 132Slotcar sells it ...
                Last edited by ModelTrainGuy; 04-27-2013, 07:32 AM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Scaleauto Forum

                  It is normally not best place to ask a question about another Brand but yes we do sell the Avant Slot chassis.
                  Check the Avant Slot Forum for more info
                  Alan Smith
                  SCI Owner.
                  www.scaleracing.com
                  www.slotcarillustrated.com
                  www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
                  www.132slotcar.us

                  1-253-255-1807

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Alan ... I have bought Avant 1/32 from you in the past ... so

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The first thing I do with all my 1/24 SA's (after blueprinting) is throw away the axles, gears and all fasteners. Replace the axles, fasteners and pinion with Plafit and use a JP spur gear. All up about $15 and you'll have a much faster and quieter car.

                      I guarantee you won't need loctite or flats on your axles again.
                      Last edited by camber; 04-30-2013, 03:48 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Scaleauto racing here features only Scaleauto parts.

                        While there are many parts that could be changed on any car Scaleauto, Plafit etc. We race the Scaleauto cars as they come from the factory. Of course we bullet proof bodies and blueprint, but the point of this type of racing here is to keep it simple and affordable. So only Scaleauto parts no JK or Plafit allowed in Scaleauto Events.

                        The first Scaleauto race I put on I was told it would not work using Scaleauto parts including braid, guides, gears and motors Well we have run 100's of Scaleauto Event now and no problem with the parts at all. We have managed to race for 24 hours and complete over 227 actual miles with all Scaleauto parts, so not so bad.
                        This also helps improve the Brand as if we experience problems we report this back to Scaleauto for development.

                        So yes you can use other Brands of parts, motors, tires etc. even bodies on Scaleauto but then it is not exactly Scaleauto racing.

                        The idea of Scaleauto was to build a Brand and type of racing at a lower cost than Plafit etc. To build an entry level class leading into the high spec, and cost types of Scaleracing. Personally I like to keep it pure, and if that means a flat on the axle and Loctite then that's the way I will go.

                        See you at the Scaleracing Scaleauto National Finals ( could be coming to a Track near you )

                        Alan Smith
                        SCI Owner.
                        www.scaleracing.com
                        www.slotcarillustrated.com
                        www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
                        www.132slotcar.us

                        1-253-255-1807

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          MTG all I am asking is AV questions in AV Forum please

                          Originally posted by ModelTrainGuy View Post
                          Alan ... I have bought Avant 1/32 from you in the past ... so
                          If you are asking a question of my Retail Store it may be best to do that in the Store Forum.

                          If you need help with Avant Slot I am happy to help you, but best in the Avant Slot Forum, that was all I meant.

                          Trying to keep it tidy, and on Track pun intended
                          Alan Smith
                          SCI Owner.
                          www.scaleracing.com
                          www.slotcarillustrated.com
                          www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
                          www.132slotcar.us

                          1-253-255-1807

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by camber View Post
                            The first thing I do with all my 1/24 SA's (after blueprinting) is throw away the axles, gears and all fasteners. Replace the axles, fasteners and pinion with Plafit and use a JP spur gear. All up about $15 and you'll have a much faster and quieter car.

                            I guarantee you won't need loctite or flats on your axles again.
                            In the interest of building better slot cars, (and preserving their scale aspects) ...

                            Thanks for the tips !

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by slotbutton View Post
                              Plan to race mine in a 2hr sprint next weekend, will let you know how it goes.
                              So Mr "Button" ...How did the plastic drivetrain hold up ?

                              Any feedback ?

                              Comment

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