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  • #16
    Nylon gears held up fine.

    At least 2 Audi's were in the field running the all nylon gears, both pinion and Spur. None failed on a very high grip track.

    Audi's not yet up to speed in the race, but in testing afterwards I had mine running on the winning pace.

    Porsche were top 3 then a Jag then Audi then Porsche then Audi.

    This was run as a Team Event with 8 Teams on track.
    Alan Smith
    SCI Owner.
    www.scaleracing.com
    www.slotcarillustrated.com
    www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
    www.132slotcar.us

    1-253-255-1807

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    • #17
      What do you guys mean by blueprinting a car?

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      • #18
        Blueprinting.

        Basically this means setting up the car as designed, not as assembled. Taking off flashing or burrs on metal parts, aligning axle holders, Locktite in screws. Checking everything is straight. Setting up guide depth for your type of track etc.
        The smooth movement of parts is critical on these cars for best performance. Also without tightening screws, and using Locktite you will lose parts. The cars are assembled but not Ready To Race. your carefully prep work with reward you with a car that performs to the best of it's potential. Then there is Bullitt proofing the bodies
        Alan Smith
        SCI Owner.
        www.scaleracing.com
        www.slotcarillustrated.com
        www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
        www.132slotcar.us

        1-253-255-1807

        Comment


        • #19
          Thanks Alan. I have two of the 1/24s. A Porsche RSR and a Jaguar. I guess I have some work to do with them. I race the Porsche at Slot Car Corner here in NH and haven't done any of those things yet. Dickie is the only one to beat it so far (not that we've had that many races). I am new to tuning these beasts so any advice is great. I guess I will tear them down. How do I remove the metal flashing. With a file?

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          • #20
            Don't tear them down. Or do. But there's probably no reason to do so.

            The H-plate, that H shaped plate in the center of the chassis to which the body mounts attach. That you'll want to remove. Notice there are two sides, call them top and bottom if you like. One side will have sharp edges, a big b a s tard file will smooth those edges right off. Put some grease on whichever side of the H-plate will be against the chassis and reassemble that.

            If all four tires touch then the assembly and the parts are most likely good.
            Remove one screw, dot of loctite, put the screw back from whence it was removed. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat until all the screws and nuts are secured.

            Make sure the nut holding the guide is tight enough. Guide needs to turn easily but any more loose than that is bad. Maybe loctite that nut too.

            I usually put a dot of loctite to hold the setscrew for the spur gear. The loctite will bleed down and glue the gear in place. Hint: Loctite is bad for ball bearings.

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            • #21
              thanks for those tips. Much appreciated. Working on my Jaguar RSR as we speak. Anything else?

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              • #22
                Make sure the bearings are aligned. The better they are aligned the better the wheels spin. The best way I can describe this is: Remove one or both wheels, stand the chassis at 90degrees to your work bench, let the axle line up with the bottom bearing - if it falls through without any problem then you are set to go, if the axle wobbles or sticks and is unable to pass through then you have to align the bearing carriers. I usually loosen all 4 screws and then set up from there - can be a tedious task but makes a huge difference.

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                • #23
                  Folks, thanks so much with the tips. I was able to align the front axle so the wheels just keep spinning and spinning. I have to believe it will help. Will try to test tonight. We shall see if it can keep up with my Porsche now.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Be mindful when using the locktite. A film of it gets on the finger ,then the body and the windshield. I couldn't figure why the body was so grimy and wouldn't clean up after locktiting the chassis. Once I figured out the problem it was the devil to get it off the body. Just leave the body off for a while until you clean up well. Latex gloves would have been helpful. Just a heads up.

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                    • #25
                      Marshall mentions a driver in the first post. Is there a stock number for this?

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                      • #26
                        I ran my new lizard Porsche last night very pleased with the performance. I did all the blueprinting steps that have been suggested. The car runs extremely well and is hooked up! I was a little hesitant at first to push the car hard. But my fears were unwarranted! I'd like to suggest that you lock tire the screws that secure the "H" plate the body mounts and then only loosen them enough to spread the body to remove the chassis.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Dennis David View Post
                          Marshall mentions a driver in the first post. Is there a stock number for this?
                          Scaleauto tools are of high quality. Mind you many of the tools sold by the various outlets look so similar to me that I am left suspecting the same manufacturer....doing knock offs of another companies product, made in China and ......just a different finish. Your want black sir, no problem, perhaps green, no then try our blue line ???

                          Putting all of the above aside the size of the hex driver I believe is 1.5mm. There are two choices:

                          SC5301 and SC5046

                          Links are:
                          SC5301

                          http://www.132slotcar.us/store/shopping_cart.php?page=2

                          SC5046

                          http://www.132slotcar.us/store/produ...oducts_id=5272

                          The latter is the same with a torque feature. I have found it set a little low for some uses. The grub screw on a front wheel came loose on the axle leading to a front suspension collapse as the wheel tracks out on the axle and the ball bearing bushing moves too. So now I add a final tweak by hand over and above the torque setting. This was in a long race of over four hours and unlikely to surface in a sprint.

                          spare/replacement tip if overly enthusiastic with the driver.
                          http://www.132slotcar.us/store/produ...oducts_id=5566

                          hope this helps. They are great cars and can lead to some very close and fun racing. Good luck

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            On an Allen wrench

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by monquispot View Post
                              Don't tear them down. Or do. But there's probably no reason to do so.

                              The H-plate, that H shaped plate in the center of the chassis to which the body mounts attach. That you'll want to remove. Notice there are two sides, call them top and bottom if you like. One side will have sharp edges, a big b a s tard file will smooth those edges right off. Put some grease on whichever side of the H-plate will be against the chassis and reassemble that.

                              If all four tires touch then the assembly and the parts are most likely good.
                              Remove one screw, dot of loctite, put the screw back from whence it was removed. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat until all the screws and nuts are secured.

                              Make sure the nut holding the guide is tight enough. Guide needs to turn easily but any more loose than that is bad. Maybe loctite that nut too.

                              I usually put a dot of loctite to hold the setscrew for the spur gear. The loctite will bleed down and glue the gear in place. Hint: Loctite is bad for ball bearings.
                              Does the grease work similar to taping a motor pod? Or what does the grease do exactly?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Damp around here.

                                The grease acts as a simple shock absorber, dampens the movement and cuts out noise.

                                I do this on BRM chassis around the perimeter of the chassis and where the Chassis touches the body helps there too.
                                Alan Smith
                                SCI Owner.
                                www.scaleracing.com
                                www.slotcarillustrated.com
                                www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
                                www.132slotcar.us

                                1-253-255-1807

                                Comment

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