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  • Marshall
    started a topic Scaleauto lessons learned

    Scaleauto lessons learned

    Hello all,

    I just started slot cars a few months ago in December and I recently bought my first Scaleauto (1:24 Jaguar XKR-RSR) to play in a 10 week league. It was my second 1:24 after a BRM. I just wanted to record some lesson learned over the last 6 weeks to share with the others and maybe promote some further discussion. Again, these are not complaints, just me learning how to play with a quality slot car that isn't all plastic.

    1.) Scaleauto 1:24 is absolutely awesome. A top quality machine. Can't wait for the Vipers.

    2.) The wood-style guide that it came with had to be trimmed or replaced to run on the Ninco track as the front "point" would dig into the holes at the bottom of the slot and cause issues

    3.) The rear bumper area definitely needed to be reinforced with shoo-goo or the equivalent.

    4.) Constant use causes the screws to back out if not checked before every race. I had one race where the rear axle mounts came loose and therefore lost power.

    5.) I needed to add nail polish/locktite to the plastic guide bolt as it would constantly come loose and the handling would then go to pot

    6.) I also needed to put a second grub screw into the large gear as the single grub backed out on me twice and caused gear miss.

    7.) I also needed to add additional washers (which others called spacers so I didn't quite get it at first) to the guide mount to drop the guide further into the slot.

    8.) Always have the driver in your back pocket that works on the 4 star-bit screws that are for popping off the body. All other screws in the car are phillips.

    9.) The braids that it came with I had to trim a bit, they were too long and would fold oddly ot push the car to far up and off of the track occasionally.

    10.) Can't wait for the new Vipers.

    - Marshall (noob)

  • Scaleracing
    replied
    Not approved.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis David
    replied
    KY-Jelly works well also ;-)

    Leave a comment:


  • Scaleracing
    replied
    Damp around here.

    The grease acts as a simple shock absorber, dampens the movement and cuts out noise.

    I do this on BRM chassis around the perimeter of the chassis and where the Chassis touches the body helps there too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slot_it_Bob
    replied
    Originally posted by monquispot View Post
    Don't tear them down. Or do. But there's probably no reason to do so.

    The H-plate, that H shaped plate in the center of the chassis to which the body mounts attach. That you'll want to remove. Notice there are two sides, call them top and bottom if you like. One side will have sharp edges, a big b a s tard file will smooth those edges right off. Put some grease on whichever side of the H-plate will be against the chassis and reassemble that.

    If all four tires touch then the assembly and the parts are most likely good.
    Remove one screw, dot of loctite, put the screw back from whence it was removed. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat until all the screws and nuts are secured.

    Make sure the nut holding the guide is tight enough. Guide needs to turn easily but any more loose than that is bad. Maybe loctite that nut too.

    I usually put a dot of loctite to hold the setscrew for the spur gear. The loctite will bleed down and glue the gear in place. Hint: Loctite is bad for ball bearings.
    Does the grease work similar to taping a motor pod? Or what does the grease do exactly?

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis David
    replied
    On an Allen wrench

    Leave a comment:


  • dansula
    replied
    Originally posted by Dennis David View Post
    Marshall mentions a driver in the first post. Is there a stock number for this?
    Scaleauto tools are of high quality. Mind you many of the tools sold by the various outlets look so similar to me that I am left suspecting the same manufacturer....doing knock offs of another companies product, made in China and ......just a different finish. Your want black sir, no problem, perhaps green, no then try our blue line ???

    Putting all of the above aside the size of the hex driver I believe is 1.5mm. There are two choices:

    SC5301 and SC5046

    Links are:
    SC5301

    http://www.132slotcar.us/store/shopping_cart.php?page=2

    SC5046

    http://www.132slotcar.us/store/produ...oducts_id=5272

    The latter is the same with a torque feature. I have found it set a little low for some uses. The grub screw on a front wheel came loose on the axle leading to a front suspension collapse as the wheel tracks out on the axle and the ball bearing bushing moves too. So now I add a final tweak by hand over and above the torque setting. This was in a long race of over four hours and unlikely to surface in a sprint.

    spare/replacement tip if overly enthusiastic with the driver.
    http://www.132slotcar.us/store/produ...oducts_id=5566

    hope this helps. They are great cars and can lead to some very close and fun racing. Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • Slot_it_Bob
    replied
    I ran my new lizard Porsche last night very pleased with the performance. I did all the blueprinting steps that have been suggested. The car runs extremely well and is hooked up! I was a little hesitant at first to push the car hard. But my fears were unwarranted! I'd like to suggest that you lock tire the screws that secure the "H" plate the body mounts and then only loosen them enough to spread the body to remove the chassis.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis David
    replied
    Marshall mentions a driver in the first post. Is there a stock number for this?

    Leave a comment:


  • zipdrive
    replied
    Be mindful when using the locktite. A film of it gets on the finger ,then the body and the windshield. I couldn't figure why the body was so grimy and wouldn't clean up after locktiting the chassis. Once I figured out the problem it was the devil to get it off the body. Just leave the body off for a while until you clean up well. Latex gloves would have been helpful. Just a heads up.

    Leave a comment:


  • manchvegasracer
    replied
    Folks, thanks so much with the tips. I was able to align the front axle so the wheels just keep spinning and spinning. I have to believe it will help. Will try to test tonight. We shall see if it can keep up with my Porsche now.

    Leave a comment:


  • slotbutton
    replied
    Make sure the bearings are aligned. The better they are aligned the better the wheels spin. The best way I can describe this is: Remove one or both wheels, stand the chassis at 90degrees to your work bench, let the axle line up with the bottom bearing - if it falls through without any problem then you are set to go, if the axle wobbles or sticks and is unable to pass through then you have to align the bearing carriers. I usually loosen all 4 screws and then set up from there - can be a tedious task but makes a huge difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • manchvegasracer
    replied
    thanks for those tips. Much appreciated. Working on my Jaguar RSR as we speak. Anything else?

    Leave a comment:


  • monquispot
    replied
    Don't tear them down. Or do. But there's probably no reason to do so.

    The H-plate, that H shaped plate in the center of the chassis to which the body mounts attach. That you'll want to remove. Notice there are two sides, call them top and bottom if you like. One side will have sharp edges, a big b a s tard file will smooth those edges right off. Put some grease on whichever side of the H-plate will be against the chassis and reassemble that.

    If all four tires touch then the assembly and the parts are most likely good.
    Remove one screw, dot of loctite, put the screw back from whence it was removed. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat until all the screws and nuts are secured.

    Make sure the nut holding the guide is tight enough. Guide needs to turn easily but any more loose than that is bad. Maybe loctite that nut too.

    I usually put a dot of loctite to hold the setscrew for the spur gear. The loctite will bleed down and glue the gear in place. Hint: Loctite is bad for ball bearings.

    Leave a comment:


  • manchvegasracer
    replied
    Thanks Alan. I have two of the 1/24s. A Porsche RSR and a Jaguar. I guess I have some work to do with them. I race the Porsche at Slot Car Corner here in NH and haven't done any of those things yet. Dickie is the only one to beat it so far (not that we've had that many races). I am new to tuning these beasts so any advice is great. I guess I will tear them down. How do I remove the metal flashing. With a file?

    Leave a comment:

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