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Autobacs Honda and setting up ......

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  • Autobacs Honda and setting up ......

    .......... a Scaleauto 1/32 scale car that uses the RT3 chassis. This isn't so much about 'race' setup as about basic setup.

    The car. 'Where's the wing?' It's in one of the three little bags, hereafter referred to as bag a, bag b and bag c, but not marked in any way to indicate the a, the b or the c, that are taped to the bottom of the display base. Bag a has the wing, bag b has six screws and bag c has a replacement front splitter.

    Wing first since it's likely the first thing to be noticed unless you have a wheel insert that's fallen out, a little Shoe-Goo will fix that, or as in this instance a small part has become unattached from the greater whole:

    Again a little Shoe-Goo makes for an easy fix.

    The wing. Remove it from bag a. Should have taken a photo of the bottom of this, there are two small slots that align with two small shoulders on the wing uprights. I found the wing uprights want to lean in towards each other. Before gluing the wing to the uprights I bent the uprights away from each other. Then bent more. Then bent more. Bend past the ability of the plastic to go back to that leaning towards each other, if they break then you bent them too far. A little Shoe-Goo atop each upright and in the slots bottom of the wing. To add some strength to the uprights I put a dab of the Shoe-Goo in the corners created by the crossbar between the wing uprights. Follow the directions on the packaging and Shoe-Goo is both strong and flexible.

    Two long screws hold the body to the chassis. Those screws are long for a reason, the two brass spacers I am not sure of the reason for. Oh. The 'Epson' Honda SC-6030 and the 'Presentation' BMW Z4, SC-6017, have smaller brass spacers and rubber donuts and have shorter screws holding body and chassis together. None of the spacers are really necessary and I've chosen to not reinstall the ones on this Autobacs car.

    Here's why the body mounting screws are soooo long and why the spacers are not necessary.
    The four 'body attitude adjustment' holes align neatly with the four 'body alignment tabs': M2 x 3mm allen screws installed in the holes allow adjustment of the body. For a real 4x4 look use M2 x 6mm screws. High in back, high in front, level front to back, want more weight on the left rear?, just adjust one or more of those four user installed screws.

    Two 'front axle adjustment' holes atop the axles, there are two M2 x 4mm allen screws in bag b to be used here. Two 'front axle adjustment' points bottom of the chassis already have those screws installed. Having looked at the car on NINCO track I cannot see any reason why I would want to install the upper front axle adjustment screws. The wheels are on the track. Since I will not be running on a NINCO track I would like to be able to raise the front axle more.

    And since I'll be running the car without traction magnets I'll remove the magnet and guess what those two screws are? M2 x 4mm.
    To remove the magnet from the Autobacs Honda or from the Liqui Moly BMW, SC-6018, first remove the rear axle then remove the two rearmost motorpod mounting screws. Loosen the two front motorpod mounting screws. Lift the back of the motor pod to expose the two allen screws that locate the magnet. Take those two allen screws out and the magnet will immediately attach itself to the motor. Easily removed and installed on the nearest refrigerator.
    Oh. Epson Honda, SC-6030, and 'Presentation' BMW Z4, SC-6017, have cylindrical magnets mounted just ahead of the motor. Careful removing of the glue is needed for those magnets to be removed.

    Now I have the four M2 x 3mm allen screws it is not needed for me to purchase those. Woohoo!

    This is front and rear axles removed from the car, front is 50mm rear is 55mm. I noticed this because however much I tweaked the front wheels they would not be true relative to the axle and I could push the wheels together enough to bind on the axle carriers, enough to push those axle carriers towards one another. There is plenty of room under the body to move the front wheels away from each other but then I would need axle spacers. Scaleauto has yet to release axle spacers for their 1/32 scale cars! Obviously they have spacers.....I mean.......there's some on the car! I added NSR 1.5mm spacers and used a 55mm Scaleauto axle, moved the wheels out nicely and now there's enough axle to support the wobble.

    Now that replacement front splitter in bag c. It is meant to replace the factory installed splitter, like when you make a sudden stop after driving full throttle into the side of something that's not moving and the installed splitter disattaches itself in six pieces. (Yeah. Me and Stephen Colbert) The four screws still in bag b are for attaching the bag c splitter to the chassis. Certainly the replacement splitter can be installed before the factory piece is 'removed' but you will have a huge gap between the front tires and the car body. I have heard reports that the screw holes do not line up, splitter to chassis, but I did not see that with this car so cannot address the issue beyond mentioning that it may be an issue.

    These are after setting the 'attitude'. Install those long body mounting screws jjust deep enough they don't fall out, with the 'attitude adjusters' in place there will be no tire rub.
    Last edited by monquispot; 06-01-2014, 05:05 PM.

  • #2
    Nice write-up. Some marketing material states plastic rear hubs but they look like alloy with inserts. Can you confirm? And do you know the weight of the body? Thanks.


    • #3
      Great car, lots of work on the article!! The brass post spacers allow for body rock, even had to raise the body up a bit on mine with some small washers as the rubber insert was too much and without the washers it affected the float. In the class we run these this car in it has achieved the most consistent and fastest times in testing. Oh, the body is 22.6 grams on my scale and the rear rims appear to be aluminum 17" x 8".
      Last edited by Biggy; 10-12-2013, 05:48 AM.


      • #4
        Thanks for the info Biggy. I was hoping the body would be alot lighter. Still, I think I'll give one a try.


        • #5
          Great car, but the chassis mounted splitter caused too much rubbing on my rather undulating track. I did find that a few grams of lead mounted where the splitter attached helps keep the guide in the slot!


          • #6
            The Verdict

            Certainly a big problem with the car(s) is the quality control and perhaps a few design flaws but it can all be fixed and is certainly better than the first efforts. My splitter was warped down on one side and would not pass tech but with a little tweaking and a lot of testing the cars (Honda and BMW) are both up to snuff. You can really toss these things around and they have very neutral handling for fairly high powered cars. The fully tuned car utilized only a few aftermarket screws and tires to be competitive, huge plus. I had put these cars on the back burner after the Mercedes but now with no weight, wood tracks at 10V these may be my weapon of choice in our GT class. Looking forward to new releases... and a revisit to the Mercedes.


            • #7
              Great info, especially for those of us who just bought our first Scaleauto 1/32.


              • #8
                The rear axle didn't 'spin' easy. Everything looked fine. Tear it all apart. Put it back together one piece at a time and the rearmost motor screw is 'twisting' things enough to cause the axle to bind up a bit. Remove the screw and it's better but better is still not right. Turns out the right side axle bushing had shifted somehow. There's really nowhere for the bushing to go but it had gotten there, seems like a motorpod issue. Pop the bushing back in place and it all spins nicely. Reinstall the rear motor screw and the bind is back.
                Remove the screw and it all works. The motor isn't going anywhere so the front screw alone is enough to hold it.
                Check that bushing.


                • #9
                  Raybrig 'Presentation' car rear wing update

                  The silver/carbon fibre Raybrig car has a different wing/attachment. And the wing is factory installed. The tiny slots in the underside of the wing have been mad much more substantial.


                  • #10
                    I have the above presentation car and out of the box I was not impressed. One of the rear hubs was not drilled straight so I had a pretty bad wobble (replaced those with parts). The front guide barely sat in the guide and that was with the front axle all the way up to the top of the blocks and even one of those is slightly crooked (not parallel from the front) so the front axle is dragging. So, with the body on (didn't come with the ride height screws) the front splitter is on the ground and the guide is barely in the slot. I removed the guide and put spacers under the guide mount. Now the car sits normal and drives pretty nice but I can't but think the spacers are not the correct solution. Oh, and the wing is crooked in two planes...

                    Okay, an update, sorta. Didn't know the splitter supplied was the one to use. Just replaced mine and removed my spacers from the guide. Sits adequately now though not as deep as I'd like. Still no body ride height adjustment screws to be found.
                    Last edited by Tangmere222; 11-27-2013, 03:17 PM.


                    • #11
                      My Raybrig arrived with the wing detached and laying in the bottom of the box.
                      All of the 3 Honda's have a poorly designed rear wing attachment.
                      I have an Autobacs that is complete and I used 30 minute epoxy to strengthen the upper and center attachments of the wing.
                      I too had a bind in the rear axle. A feeler gauge confirmed axle contact with the motor can.
                      I replaced the rear axle with a Slot it SIPA01-54R witch has a turned center. Problem solved.
                      The wheels were replaced with 17X10 rear and 17X8 front black CB design LMP wheels and 1408 Supertires on the rear along with NSR fronts which were glued and trued. Add a lot of additional tweaking due to poor quality as Biggy pointed out and the car is strong and very nice to drive. I've invested NSR money into this project but I'm happy.
                      I run no mag and race with Biggy as often as I can get up to NY.


                      • #12

                        Has there been any rumbles about making this available is 1/24th?



                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dw5555 View Post
                          Has there been any rumbles about making this available is 1/24th?


                          I would be surprised. For 2014 the Japanese Super GT Series will be running the same rules as the DTM. The race career of this car is therefore over. For 2014 Honda's car of choice is NSX CONCEPT-GT HR-414E