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Has anyone put a clear coating a Scaleauto?

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  • Has anyone put a clear coating a Scaleauto?

    Anyone have any experience clear coating their Scaleauto to protect the Tampo printing? When we race at Alan's 132 Slotcar we use the Scaleauto tire cleaner that removes the Tampo printing after a while and I'd like to protect a new body I have.

    TIA
    Last edited by The Professor; 05-14-2014, 08:51 AM. Reason: redefined question

  • #2
    I used Mr Super Clear on my Bilstein Audi with no issues. One if the best rattle can clears IMO.
    A couple of light coats and a heavier coat, no good for Patto's decals though.

    - Cam

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    • #3
      A couple of light coats and a heavier coat, no good for Patto's decals though.
      Gotta ask ... what happens to Patto's decals if this stuff is applied?

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      • #4
        I bet the solvent in the paint wrinkles them. Tamiya clears will do it as well if you go to "hot" on the hot coat.

        Future floor polish, dip the whole body in it. Looks Great! Or just brush it on with a soft soft brush.

        Ron

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Wet Coast Racer View Post
          Gotta ask ... what happens to Patto's decals if this stuff is applied?
          ^^^^ Yep, they fry big time.

          Unfortunately, I know this from experience.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by The Professor View Post
            Anyone have any experience clear coating their Scaleauto to protect the Tampo printing? When we race at Alan's 132 Slotcar we use the Scaleauto tire cleaner that removes the Tampo printing after a while and I'd like to protect a new body I have.

            TIA
            Prof

            As Camber noted, mr Super Clear ( the grey type) is your only option as this is the only clearcoat in a rattle can that is more or less petrol/toluene resistant and that's what you'll need to protect it from the tyre cleaner that you use. Future floor polish and Tamiya clear coat are not.

            However, care should be taken when using Mr Super Clear on your Scaleauto.
            In generally they use a combination of painted colors and tampo printing for their bodies and each reacts differently to the clear coat.
            You'll also have to mask of all transparent parts on your body (or remove them from it), as these can not endure the solvents in the clear coat.

            Here's a step by step:

            1 Clean your body with a mild detergent and water.

            2 Thoroughly dry the body, make sure that there is no residue moisture in bodylines and or small holes and crevasses.

            3 Warm the body to above room or ambient temperature, do the same thing for the rattle can.
            (I usually place the can in a cup in the sink with the warm water tap running in the cup)

            4 Dry the rattle can with a cloth (would not be the first time that a drop of water finds its way in the clear coat spray), rattle the can and apply the first coat as just a mist.
            A correctly applied mist will have a matte finish as the warmer temperatures will make the clearcoat set as soon as it hits the body surface and will not attack the underlying surfaces

            5 Build up two or three of these thin matte layers and let it dry thouroughly.

            6 Optional would be a light rubb down with some 1200 -2000 wet emery paper, then clean again (step 2).

            7 Proceed as from step 3 but apply thicker coat(s) but not too thick. With mr Super Clear you do not need to achieve a super shiny surface whilst spraying. That will come shortly after as the clearcoats starts to set and harden.


            With this procedure it is even possible to apply Mr Superclear on Patto decals, but the first mists will have to be very thin. More like you are dusting the surface.

            An other trick is to apply one or two layers of such mists of clearcoat to the Patto decals while they are still on the decal sheet. Like I do when I use selfmade inkjet printed decals. Same procedures apply, warm the can and warm the surface (in this case the decalsheet)


            with kind regards
            Tamar

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            • #7
              Testors 1261 Gloss coat works well on decals, they also have a Dull Coat 1260, always go light on your first coats. Dries really fast too.

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              • #8
                Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll give it a go!

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                • #9
                  Yesterday I started repairing the wing I broke off in Saturdays BRM race and I used simple green on a paper towel to wipe some oil off the red and black Kenwood 962 and amazingly the Kenwood Tampo on the sides wiped off. When I clean a body prior to painting I mix some trisodium phosphate and warm water and never have had a problem with the tampo. Test before cleaning. When I use the tire cleaner I am careful when I wipe the tires down not to get any on the body. Then I roll the tires across a sheet of paper until dry. This has helped with the tampo damage issue.

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