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SSD power loss at or on the digital lane changes

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  • SSD power loss at or on the digital lane changes

    Hello forum members
    I am having power losses at several of the digital lane changers, and I need advice on how to resolve them and need advice as what to do next
    Here is my set up
    I just changed the layout of my track and now am having issues with loss of power in the track
    I use the Pyramid PS-26KX and have around 8 straight lane changes on a track that is about 110 feet that I run at 13 volts. The cars are losing power just as they pass over the lane change on one of the LCís (one side loses power while the other side of the same piece of the track does not.) Then there is no power after the point on the track. I removed one of the LCís that was having a power loss and replaced it with standard straight Sport Track after which there is no power loss until the next LC. I have crimped the connector points on all of the pieces of track and have applied connectivity grease, so I believe that the issue is not with the connections. That being said I have not had this issue in the past until I changed the layout. I disconnected the last piece of track before the power source and while holding the hand controller at full and put the slot car on each piece of track (holding the rear of the car upward so only the guide blade has contact at the track.) This has not clearly identified the issue(s).
    I have several power taps ready to add to the track, but I donít know if this will do the trick. I am also considering running an additional power source directly to each lane change. Any suggestions or insight would be appreciated

  • #2
    Heya, Saffron.
    I moved this to our new, dedicated Scalextric Digital forum.

    As for the problem, huh... tough one. It sounds like you've done all there is. What about power tapping the actual XLC itself? Also, I wonder if maybe there's a buildup of some kind in the track connector, and that a clean-out with a q-tip and contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol wouldn't do the trick. Then a drop if INOX or your connection grease. I tried dielectric, but it didn't do much for my track. So you use silver grease or something else that's conductive?

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    • #3
      Thanks Mr. Flippant

      I just noticed the new dedicated site (cool)
      I did notice that when running one car the amp draw is only two amps (don't know what if anything that means?)
      The power taps and tapping the LC is next. I have wanted to try the INOX so now is as good time as any. The conductive grease I use is the one used in the Marine business and is expensive, but it seems to work.

      Scott

      Comment


      • #4
        Scott,
        I have noticed the loss of power after the lane changes, and it seems like the longer the layout and more lane changes amplifies the loss. If you put a power tap between each lane change your power will be consistant. I did not see as much of a help powering the lane changes seperately. You have to get some Inox you won't believe the difference. Nearest Harley shop is your best bet.

        Greg

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        • #5
          it sounds like you have a loose jumper wire. turn the LC track upside down. there are three black covers held on by small silver screws.

          the large black cover in the middle houses the solenoids that power the flippers as well as a red and a black jumper wire that transfers the power from one rail to the other where the track splits for the crossover. check those two wires to make sure they are still connected to the rails.

          the smallest black cover, located after the crossover, houses four more jumper wires. make sure these are all properly connected to the rails.

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          • #6
            Thanks guys for your suggestions. I know what I will be working on when I get home from work today. I have power taps ready for deployment and will get a bridge for the wires and will check out the LC's for the loose jumper wire.

            Scott

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            • #7
              All great ideas. Let us know how it turns out, Scott.

              I need to add some more power taps to my layout as well, but I keep trudging along without them, procrastinating. It'll be like a new layout when I finally do it, though. ;-)

              Comment


              • #8
                Inox sold here

                Dont forget www.132slotcar.us:) sells INOX
                Alan Smith
                SCI Owner.
                www.scaleracing.com
                www.slotcarillustrated.com
                www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
                www.132slotcar.us

                1-253-255-1807

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                • #9
                  Hi Alan,

                  I will place an order with you later today

                  Scott

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I want to see your setup, sounds pretty sweet.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I finally ordered the INOX and I am behind on adding the wire to the track rails, but I will make better progress over the weekend. The holiday crunch at work is wearing me down and I need the weekend to devote to some fun (like slot cars). I will post some pictures if my setup on Sunday. I need to read in the forum how to post pictures. If I can’t figure it out I will put them in my Gallery

                      Scott

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                      • #12
                        Posting pics is easy. Just click your own "My Gallery" button, click Add Album, click Add Photos, follow the steps to select and upload photos. When you go to post pics to a thread, go to the Advanced editor (rather than quick reply), and click the little digital camera icon. That brings up another window with recent gallery additions. Some computers let you just click the picture and it will insert it into your post. Others you need to turn on the BBCode option and copy/paste the code you get after you click the image.

                        I picked up some 26g copper wire from the craft store. 30y for $2.50, so I figured what the heck. I'm just testing by slipping 1" lengths in at the joins, and have only done a few joins. My plan is to just slip them in whenever I get a bad join, rather than go around the whole track right off the bat. Even with 26g, though, the joins I've done have caused the slot to tighten. I have an Aussie V8 that has a thicker than normal guide, and while it doesn't get stuck when moving, it could at a stop. I should just sand the guide slimmer, or replace it, but I'm just saying that the wire trick will make slots tighter, so be mindful of that and test all your cars on the whole track before having a race.

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                        • #13
                          Very interesting

                          I have a thicker gauge then you are using so the wire idea may not be the right option. I will try the wire on a few pieces of track and try the different types of cars I have. Backup plan is the power taps that are ready to install and wire up to the power source. And then there is the INOX whish shipped today fronm1/32

                          Scott

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                          • #14
                            Did the issue get resolved?

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