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Can we replace motors to higher capacity types on digital cars?

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  • Can we replace motors to higher capacity types on digital cars?

    I was at my local hobby shop and noticed scalextric sells different RPM motors for their cars.

    The shop owner told me I am not able to run these motors on my Digital Platinum kit due to the digital chip limiting power to the motor or something to that nature.

    Aparently Scalextric is working on allowing motor swaps in the future. Is this true?

  • #2
    the issue is that more powerful motors pull more amps, which can fry the digital chip. slot.it makes an upgraded chip that can handle more amps. there are some people that can upgrade stock digital chips to make them more robust.

    another option is to race without magnets the cars pull a lot less amps since there is no magnetic downforce to overcome, so you can run more powerful motors without frying chips. although if you race without magnets on the average size home track, you likely won't need an upgraded motor as the stock scaley is usually fast enough.
    Last edited by boopiejones; 12-30-2013, 10:00 AM.

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    • #3
      Clearly, fast and stuck is how you enjoy the hobby.
      So, what you need to do is contact GMyers here on the forum, and send him some chips to upgrade. With the replacement diodes and mosfets on an upgraded chip, you can run pretty much any motor with as many magnets as you can stuff into the car, and it won't fail.
      You might start causing overloads on the powerbase, but that can also be overcome with some modifications.
      Have fun!

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      • #4
        Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
        Clearly, fast and stuck is how you enjoy the hobby.
        So, what you need to do is contact GMyers here on the forum, and send him some chips to upgrade. With the replacement diodes and mosfets on an upgraded chip, you can run pretty much any motor with as many magnets as you can stuff into the car, and it won't fail.
        You might start causing overloads on the powerbase, but that can also be overcome with some modifications.
        Have fun!
        Thanks!

        I'm trying very quickly to become a purist and have secretly at night started to switch magnet position to the front spots on the chassis.

        I want my son like myself to learn how to drive the cars!

        I myself am driving them at 100% power and learning to control cars with trigger position.

        Incidentally, do you race at 100% power? do you use the brake button or simply release power on main trigger to brake?

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        • #5
          my personal non-mag digital experience... usually race at around 75% power, although the cars are still fun at 50%. i just release the trigger to brake and have the brake button set as a track call button.

          if you want to get better at driving mag free, i recommend starting with low power and then ramping it up as you get the hang of it. also, make sure your track is clean and you have good aftermarket tires or soften the stock tires with oil.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by boopiejones View Post
            my personal non-mag digital experience... usually race at around 75% power, although the cars are still fun at 50%. i just release the trigger to brake and have the brake button set as a track call button.

            if you want to get better at driving mag free, i recommend starting with low power and then ramping it up as you get the hang of it. also, make sure your track is clean and you have good aftermarket tires or soften the stock tires with oil.
            Thanks.

            Can you please clarify what is meant by "have the brake button set as a track call button"?

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            • #7
              Ditto what boopie said.
              For magless, I almost never run at full power, but when I do, it's usually with some kind of throttle curve manipulation using a computer RMS such as RCS64 or SSDC. I also just release the trigger to slow the car down. You can turn on dynamic brakes, which is how I race, but turning off brakes completely can be a good training tool. With no brakes, the cars coast a lot farther, forcing you to slow down even sooner before the turn. This is how 1:1 race driving is often taught to beginners learning a course.

              Moving the magnets to the front position, when possible, is a great stepping stone to magless. Doing so still gives a traction boost, but the cars will tail whip a lot easier, and sooner. This not only reduces the severity of crashes, but also is a lot of fun when you get kick the tail out over a border area AND keep racing. Controlled drifting is one of the other fun things about magless racing, but you need to make or buy borders to put outside every turn, and inside some of them as well.

              Note that I'm not an anti-magnet person. I still have lots of cars with magnets. But, I'm clearly not a fan of adding magnets and replacing motors. Eventually you get to the point of cars that are too fast to even see. Sure, there's skill in racing those cars, but i find it more stressful than relaxing.

              In your quest for more digital racing fun, if you haven't already, contact Slotfiend on this forum for prices on his APB to PC cables. That will let you connect your APB to a computer and not only upgrade the firmware, but also run some really neat software to control racing, adding things like fuel load, and even weather and tire wear.

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              • #8
                Check out my video on Yellow Flag mode for how track call works.
                Then, watch the video about pace cars to see the different brake options. Setting it to dynamic will be for brakes when you release the trigger. Then the brake button is a track call button.

                [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKOugm_CY8g"]C7042 Part 4 - "Yellow Flag" - YouTube[/ame]

                [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1Bf6q4kdgI"]C7042 Part 3 - "Pace Cars" - YouTube[/ame]

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