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Possible Aston Martin handling fix

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  • Possible Aston Martin handling fix

    I know the Martin have a very bad name due to handling issues but there may be a solution. After having such a time with them I pretty much had set them to the side an no one wanted to run them.

    I've heard fixes from heating up the chassis and bending, etc...but try this

    I ordered 12 of this size tires from Paul Gage.
    2 pair PGT-19125 (19x12x5) super low profile
    The reason the Martins seem to be jumping the slot so much on curves is because of that large air dam, front spoiler, or whatever you want to call it hangs so far out front of the car that any flex in the track bumps and lifts the guide out of the slot.

    Using these lower profile tires on the rear lifts the front in the air a bit more and rides so much better. I can now run wide open (Jr mode) with a B motor and rails like a train on standard curves.

    You can probably gear it now for a little faster speed but it runs so much better than it did before we actually have fun racing with them now.

    Hope this helps someone make a car useful.

  • #2
    The other issue with the Astons

    We found that with a 42B the cars are just fast enough that you have a choice of either sliding around the track or magnet dragging the track. Since our consumers have a tendancy of just 'flooring' the car, we had moved them all to RX-42 motors and seemed to work fine. After about a day or so though, they started becoming the slow car and were not consistant.

    We discovered the problem was the openings on the front fenders (air vents) were letting dirt and dust into the front half of the car and getting into the connection from the chip to motor. When we clean them up really good, including taking the motor apart and cleaning the armature, the cars run very nice.

    Going to test by installing some tape on the inside of those vents to keep the dirt out and see if that helps...



    • #3
      My main issue was jumping the guide out of the slot and running across the track at corners (and yes they were very loose in the rear end).

      The urythane tires are very sticky (I ordered the stickiest) which holds the rear end in place well while lower profile (of this particular size) keeps the guide in the slot and allows the magnet to be raised instead of dragging it around the track. It does look like the lower profile keeps it at the top end of it's rpm range and could get a little more speed by tinkering but it runs within .3 seconds of my fastest car on a 4 second track.

      (I don't know about longevity yet, maybe someone can pipe in if they last because I have now made quite an investment in these tire, replacing all my sylicone tires that replaced all the original rubber, LoL)


      • #4
        Ha! You know, that just might be the key to this car. I had the same experience as outlaw with my club car Aston. Lovely, fast, and a bee-___ to drive. Constantly plowing through curves, rolling over etc. I tried every tuning trick I read from magnet adjustments to chassis adjustments to taping the motor pod etc. but it just wouldn't drive. This summer I cannibalized its wheels and motor to complete a Ferrari 550 since it was never being used.

        My son finally bugged me enough to put it back together, but I didn't want to give up the 550. So...I used the low-profile wheels and tires from spare Porsche 911 (gold wheel) axles instead of the stock. This car FLIES now! It became my wife's favorite car in a single day---it's the only one she can drive on normal speed with consistency. I had been trying to figure out why it handled so much better now. The answer is obvious in hindsight.

        Good catch!


        • #5
          I assume you are speaking of the Aston Martin DBR9 and not the Vantage,which is a good handling car out of box.I found the same thing with smaller rears helped the balance tremendously.They are still a bit top heavy and i trimmed my splitter way in because of twisty track and banked turns on one racetrack.One thing is do not change the fronts to a smaller diameter,the tripod effect dosen't work with the heavyness off this car.I also glue the motor pod on each side, about 1/2"long hot glue,then either break/cut the pod free,but leave the glue stuck to the chassis as a limiter for pod movement.You can try it glued solid,but more than likely it will encourage flat slides,where the small amount of pod movement will give just a little weight transfer for better grip to the outside.I found motor pod travel very exagerrated on this chassis.


          • #6
            Ranzume (and everyone else), put a little dot of INOX MX3 (or Aerocar, or similar) on all those little tab/pressure connections, like from the motor to the chip/rails and even from the lights to the chip/rails. I had an SCX car that would stutter and the lights would flash all the time, and it wasn't the braids. After doing the treatment, it's rock steady and a great runner. I now do it to all my SCX cars, right out of the box during lubing and setup.

            More specifically, wipe on (apply drop of INOX), wipe off (so metal appears dry). I usually use a cotton swab. One end to apply, the other to remove.
            Last edited by MrFlippant; 10-31-2012, 08:05 AM.


            • #7
              Exactly what I do with all of the cars. We had found that since the cars are being used extensively at a flea market, there is a lot of dust in the air and it gets into the car.

              After a good cleaning, the Astons are unstoppable, but a few days of running in this environment, they need to be cleaned again. More so than the Corvettes, Porsches, Ferraris and Nascar cars. All get relatively frequent cleanings, its just that the Astons require more frequent cleanings.



              • #8
                Ah. Interesting. The Aston (Team Modena) is one of the few SCX cars I have, and it's been great. But, I don't run it in harsh environments like that.


                • #9
                  For us we have the Modena, Green and Yellow Body Coach, Red bull, and the new Young Driver. All 4 exhibit the same issue of needing cleaned frequently. We have 3 porsches, 5 Ferraris, 4 corvettes (one is the safety car) and 6 Nascar that can run for a longer time before they need cleaned, and I hardly ever need to take the motors apart to clean the internals.



                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
                    More specifically, wipe on (apply drop of INOX), wipe off (so metal appears dry). I usually use a cotton swab. One end to apply, the other to remove.
                    That is good info, I'll look into some.


                    • #11
                      This thread might have saved my DBR9s. Thanks guys.


                      • #12
                        I will say that once tuned they are much more predictable and we made a race class for them.They were on last night racing and once again the DBR9 helped me save the night with two out of three wins and a third(pushed to hard)
                        Race on(with your DBR9)



                        • #13
                          Connectivity Issues with the chassis

                          I bought a beautiful Modena version from Cincy Slots. When I first got it I was thoroughly perplexed. The car was a complete and total dog, but every now and then it would run incredibly well. I was ready to buy a new motor for it. Then I ran it without the body and noticed a spark where the motor pods "finger" connect with the power rail. I decided to make some jumper wires to bypass that flimsy connection. The car worked brilliantly, except the lights exhibited the same behavior. So I decided to hard wire the lights with a small connector. And like magic the car works great now, lights and all. One of the best runners I have. I even like to use higher voltage on my carrera track with the bridge track and the car will jump two feet across and land in the slot...totally awesome!!

                          Here are pictures of what I did to the car:


                          • #14
                            Nice work!

                            Where did you source those little connectors?



                            • #15
                              They look like a connector from a Losi Mini T. Ask your local RC hobby shop...around $5.

                              Nice work Carlo!