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  • glp
    started a topic SCP-1 issue

    SCP-1 issue

    I was using my SCP-1 on my two wire HO track and I'm having an issue. The controller will act as if pulled all the way and the car takes off without any trigger pull. The LC/as on lights green when this happens. I do remember that a few years ago racing non mag 1/32 cars I was having issues that I was constantly falling off the lane and couldn't understand why. I just thought my racing skill was going away. But now, I think I was having the same issue back then. Does anyone know of issues like this? Can I fix it? Please help! I don't want to throw this in the parts bin!

  • MrFlippant
    replied
    When I saw HO, I thought maybe volts were too HIGH, as opposed to too low. Compare the volts you're running at with the functional range of the controller. It should be in the manual, but I forget the specific range.

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  • Tim ... Guy
    replied
    Double Naught i use my SCP-1 on 8 volts on two different tracks with no problem. One of the tracks we race with Cheetah IV motors the other is 1/32. I also use the high Amp (blue) cartridge.

    Tim Snyder

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  • glp
    replied
    Ok, thanks for the help!

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  • Double Naught
    replied
    Hi glp, I think an SCP-1 would required a three wire hookup to power the controller. They also require over 9 volts dc or they will brown out and lock on with full power output.
    Hope the info helps,
    Paul

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  • RichD
    replied
    Some electronic controllers will only work properly with a track that is wired for brakes. The Slot.it controller does not work like most transistorized controllers since it is a PWM type, but possibly it needs a brake connection. Most HO cars do not require brakes, but you can make a temporary brake connection by running a wire from the negative side of your power supply to the controller's brake connection. Electronic controllers are also polarity sensitive, if the other two wires are reversed the controller will not operate properly.
    Here is how an HO track is usually wired.



    Note that the negative rail is on the right looking in the direction of travel. This wiring scheme is what is called positive polarity, Slot.it makes controllers for tracks with positive and negative polarity wiring. Check on which one you have. In addition Slot.it controllers are mostly intended for use with 1/32nd tracks. Set type 1/32nd tracks all have negative polarity wiring and club type tracks usually have positive polarity wiring. I have never seen anyone use a Slot.it controller with HO cars. Slot.it controllers do not use the standard red, white and black coded connections that are used in the US, you will have to figure out what goes where. The red Slot.it connection = red on my schematic, yellow = white and black = black.

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  • glp
    replied
    I just tried the controller again. When it acts up, the max/diagnose and lc/ alternately flash.
    Last edited by glp; 08-09-2019, 12:45 PM.

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