No announcement yet.

new Audi suspension issue?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • new Audi suspension issue?

    I posted this in a different thread but thought to repost it on its own:
    The new Audi apparently comes with a note (I could not find it with mine) advising that the front suspension should be adjusted before running the car. Unaware of that need, I found that my car would de-slot every lap, although unpredictably - in some corners, in an instant; in others, it tracks right through. In contrast, Santa also brought me the new Porsche GT1, and it runs like a train. With no adjustments at all. Combing through this forum, I found scattered references to the suspension issue, and Maurizio's notice that the front axle had been installed at its lowest position and need to be raised, even to the point of removing the upper grub screws and tightening the lower screws as far as possible while allowing the wheels to spin freely. I've done that, incrementally raising the axle and eventually removing the upper grub screws. I also trimmed the braids, as they appeared to be propping the front end up a bit. The car still de-slots with regularity and, at this point, is basically useless. Has anyone else experienced this problem, and what remedy can you recommend?

  • #2
    What kind of track???
    My Audi R18 out performs my NSR#1 on Artin track!! (Still working on the set up for the NSR after all this time?)
    All I did to the Slot-it R18 was to adjust the front end and lube.
    Still not as fast as the Lola...but the Lola has had time on track and tuning, axle shim, grub screws and bearings on front end etc!
    Both Slot-it cars are a pleasure in handling and just pure fun to Drive!! Make way for the Chappy 2D!!!!!!
    Last edited by sascws90; 12-27-2012, 07:13 AM.


    • #3
      Setting up the front axle correctly is a critical step to consistent slot car handling.
      With the body off the chassis, start by removing the wheels from the front axle and remove the two plastic axle blocks supporting the axle. Reassemble the front axle/wheels. Insert four set screws in the upper axle carriers and from underneath the chassis into the two holes on the bottom of the chassis. Make sure the set screws are not yet screwed in far enough to touch the axle when the car sits on a setup block.
      Flatten the braids against the bottom of the guide as smooth as possible. You may need to trim them or replace them if they will not sit flat against the guide. Back off the four pod screws a full turn each. Place the chassis on a setup block and make sure the car is sitting on the guide without the braid raising the car. Slowly turn in the upper set screws until they just touch the axle. When both screws look to be barely touching the axle, use your allen head wrench to tap on top of each axle carrier to check for any movement. If both screws are just touching the axle, there should be no movement when you tap the top of the axle carrier. If you see or hear movement, tighten that set screw little by little until both sides do not move when tapping the top of the axle carrier. This ensures both tires are planted firmly on the track. The guide should be level and on the same plane as the two tires. This is the five point setup and works well on wood tracks where the braid is slightly recessed below the track. On smooth plastic, I tend to raise the guide slightly, supporting the front by only the wheels ( four point setup). In bumpy plastic track(ninco and classic scaley) raising the front wheels a hair and letting the guide support the car ( tripod setup), tends to work best. Once you have finished adjusting the top set screws, turn in the bottom set screws one at a time while spinning the front wheels until the set screw drags on the spinning axle stopping it from spinning. Now back off the bottom screw about a quarter turn, or until the axle spins freely again. Once Both bottom screws are set correctly, you are done.
      Hope that helps. A setup block is required to do this. You could make one from scrap wood in a pinch.


      • #4

        Thanks very much for the instruction, which will be useful for some of my other cars. The new Audi does not come with the plastic axle supports - the upper and lower grub screws are installed at the factory, where apparently someone set the axle to its lowest setting and thus needed adjustment. The problem with my car - perhaps unique to my car? - is that I've raised the axle as far as it can go, as per Maurizio's instructions, here: "Remember, before use, to set the riding height of the front wheels to the highest position: the car was assembled with the front wheels in a low position, but it's just a matter of adjusting the position provided grub screws. And here: "It's just a matter of setup, remove the top screws and screw the bottom ones in until the axle stays up but rotetes freely."
        Having done that, my car de-slots on virtually every lap, whereas my new Porsche 911 GT1 flies around the thing very impressively. So, is my Audi a dud, or do others experience this same problem, or am I missing something? My track is Scalextric Sport.
        Last edited by Thirty; 12-27-2012, 09:13 AM. Reason: added info


        • #5
          Can you post a photo kinda like this:

          It might help trouble shoot the problem being able to see the front end. Also, when you have the car on the track, do the front tires rub if you push the car down the track using your finger over either front fender? Loose cars often times will have some drag or binding in the front axle/wheels.



          • #6


            • #7
              Try removing the front tires.

              With the front tires off, does the car still act the same, if not then mount some low profile tires and test again. Also check that the front tires are not contacting the body.

              Here the Audi is a rocket, this is on a wood track with recessed braid.

              Set up I found worked here raise front axle as high as possible. Tighten front body screw then loosen about a 1/8 of a turn. Tighten rear body screw and loosen about 1/4 of a turn. Pod screws carefully tighten ( it is easy to strip them ) then loosen front about 1/8, sides about 1/4 and rear about 1/4 turn. Test again, if the car chatters tighten the pod, if it is loose handling loosen the pod. Go slowly on adjustments. I found side pod screws need only be loosened a little front pod in the end ended up tight.

              This car here is very fast, but it is very sensitive to set up.

              I also have now straightened the chassis, the main area that changed is the front diaplane, straightening allowed it to sit closer to the body. There is still a gap on my car but it is now even.

              Hope this helps.
              Alan Smith
              SCI Owner.



              • #8
                Front wheels are plastic...could be out of round on one side also?


                • #9
                  check the car on a set up block or a spare piece of track, like TransIssues picture in post #5. while every car is different, the best starting point is to set up the lower set screws so the tires are just barely touching the track. then adjust the upper set screws so that the axle can spin freely but cannot rock up and down too much.

                  make sure the wheels are not rubbing anything - chassis, body, etc.

                  confirm that the guide isn't sitting so deep in the slot that it is bottoming out in the slot.

                  also, where are you located? it is quite possible there is someone nearby that can assist. if you're in the SF bay area, we are racing this saturday and you're welcome to join us...


                  • #10
                    Improved. I think. Sorta

                    Many thanks for the informed counsel and particularly the invitation to one of my favorite cities in the world (unfortunately, getting there from Connecticut is a challenge). I have taken some photos that I'll attach, for which I tightened down the chassis screws; running the car in that configuration, I was interested to find that it no longer de-slotted with such frequency - but still would do it - and my lap times dropped to equal the Porsche's. I tried raising the axle a bit more, but it didn't seem to like that. I found, by pressing on the tops of the fenders as suggested, that the left front would deflect and, from the pictures, it appears that the chassis is twisted or torqued somehow. I ran the car without the front tires and it de-slotted pretty much in the same manner as with them (it also does this only in one corner, which is an improvement as it used to do it in two!). I also ran the chassis, without the body, and there ensued a de-slotting extravaganza. The good part is that the car does seem to run better; the bad part is that it still isn't right.


                    • #11
                      At a glance it looks like your braids may be part of the problem - last picture. I have found on my Sport track the braid needs to be as flat as possible with the end gradually bending down toward mid guide. Any more curve can force the nose up on a really light car.


                      • #12
                        Looks like a chassis in need of a hot water bath!!!

                        Plus your braids are lifting the guide almost all the way out of your display case. Need to get the braid laying flat.



                        • #13

                          Looking at this photo it would appear that your braids need to be 'laid down'. The left one especially so. The braids would be pushing up the front of the car and remove much of the effect of the guide.

                          I would hold the car with my left hand and have the car laying in the palm of my left hand. Then I would use the thumb of my right hand to first press down on the braid and then 'push' it towards the front of the car. This will make it lay flat.

                          Just my opinion of course.


                          • #14
                            i agree. first and foremost, get the braids flat. then adjust the front axle so the wheels are just bairely touching the ground.

                            the car probably crashes more without the body because the only thing keeping the guide in the slot right now is the weight of the body pushing down on the braids. once you remove the weight of the body, the braids are forcing the guide even further out of the slot which causes more crashes.

                            lastly, some cars will ride up on guardrails and deslot. i am not sure if that is the case with the audi, but in your first picture it looks like the guardrail is relatively close to the track. if the car fishtails and rides up the guardrail, it can pop out of the slot. scaley sells borders that push the guardrail out a few inches, giving cars more room to slide.
                            Last edited by boopiejones; 12-27-2012, 11:58 AM.


                            • #15
                              Believe it or not ...

                              I already trimmed the braids and pressed them down - they were far, far worse before. But I do agree with you all that the braids may very well be the problem. Or part of it. I may just swap them out, and will be interested to see if the attitude of the chassis changes with flatter braids - kinda odd they would be so springy. The car is running in the outside lane and de-slots as it enters this chicane, sliding across the track to the point where you see it resting, and isn't the result of track borders; at this point it's entering the turn in the outside lane from a short straight. There are other places in the layout where the outside lane does have borders, but it doesn't seem to want to de-slot in those (at least most of the time). Thanks again for the help - I'll attend to my braid situation. When it's not de-slotting, the car is impressively quick and great visually. Both this car and the Porsche 911 seem much better than my Lola - another great design, but sounds like a bag of bolts and isn't as fast as these two.