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Guide problems

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  • Guide problems

    I have an extended analog Scalextric / SCX setup, as well as a good selection of's.
    My problem is that the's run rough on the track; the guide, out of the box, runs too deep in the slot. So I use a dremel to shave down the guide to where it doesn't stick at the bottom of the slot, but the cars still run rough.
    If anybody has a similar setup, please offer advice on what to do to easily correct the problem.
    Cars I have from other manufacturers do not have the same problem, it's only the's.

  • #2
    Not sure exactly what the description rough is, would you provide more details? Front of chassis dragging? Guide flag binding in the slot? Front wheels rubbing on the fenders? Do you have a setup block?

    As far as stock guide setup with the new guide, I do the following. I’ll pull the guide out and make sure there isn’t any flashing and everything is smooth. When installed with a drop of plastic compatible oil, I use a grub screw to set the guide flag so there is little to no vertical slop. I try to get the guide flag as deep as possible and on stock Slot.its I correct a too deep guide by lower the front axle using four grub screws in the holes provided in the chassis. For my painted Scaly track the best compromise seems to be the front tires carrying weight, and the braid as flat as possible to not give any “spring rate” to the front of the car. You don’t mention “roughness” in the turns, but I strip the insulation off the guide wires 80% of the way from the guide to the axle, this allows a self-centering guide with little chance of the wire rubbing on the inside nose of the car.

    Last edited by TransIssues; 08-16-2013, 03:25 PM.


    • #3
      Paul, my description of rough pertains mostly to the way the's sound on the track; there's a lot of clickety clackety noise that my other cars don't do, and they seem to "stick" quite a bit in the slot. I've flattened the braids as much as possible, and yes I would like to have at least some contact on the track from the front tires, but not sure how to do that. I'm relatively new to 1/32 scale, and have minimal skills. I've removed the chassis spacers underneath the front axles to help allow some more travel in the front, but that doesn't seem to help. I haven't tried adjusting the screws though, I will try that. My's are not all new, I've been collecting them for about 4 years, so I have some of the older models, not sure if they have the adjustment screws on them.
      Other answers; it doesn't seem to be a problem with front wheels rubbing against the car. I do not have a set-up block.
      Thanks for your help, reply if you can.



      • #4
        Sounds like the guide is hitting the bottom of the slot. Not much you can do other than shave the guide so that it's not so deep. other cars will do this too, such as Fly cars with the spring guide, or even Scalextric cars with their deep/sprung guide. This will only happen with Scalextric Classic and old SCX Analog track. The only other option is replacing the track with Sport (or ninco or Carrera), or going routed.


        • #5
          MrFlippant, if only I'd not invested so much in the analog track, switching vendors would be no question. There are advantages to the classic track, as I'm sure you'll admit, but it's only the's that give me trouble. I have about 60 Scalextric and Fly cars that didn't require guide shaving. I do appreciate the quality and handling of the's though, I just have to find that magic depth on the guide without going too far with the dremel.
          Thanks for the reply.


          • #6
            I would like to have at least some contact on the track from the front tires, but not sure how to do that.
            Take a look at this item, and this thread also, particularly Moby Dick's input. Keep in mind that you can upgrade your older cars with the latest chassis for only a few bucks and the time to install it.

            There's a lot of clickety clackety noise that my other cars don't do, and they seem to "stick" quite a bit in the slot.
            After shaving the guide, is this happening only in the curves, or on the straightaways as well? Just wondering if it's the length of the keel that may be the issue.


            • #7
              Might be in combination with the chassis bottoming out on the track - especially at the joints, "clickity click" if the track has even a tiny amount of "bowing"

              Rather than trim the guides, setting the front axle height with grub screws from above the axle, would create chassis clearance and raise the guide so it doesn't hit the bottom of the slot.


              • #8
                Thanks for the help, Wet Coast and SlotsNZ. The tutorial and the thread make it easier to understand. I hadn't thought of the chassis bottoming out, but it's possible. I believe the cars are most noisy on the straights, more so than the curves. Will follow the steps about the grub screws.


                • #9
                  When EMSA ran series while we still had a couple classic/scx tracks, we usually allowed the guide to be replaced with the shallow guide. makes them for this exact reason. I would suggest getting the replacement rather than shaving the stock guides because then you'll have the stock guides to put back in, should you ever sell, or race the car on a track with deeper slots. Plus it's less work than trimming it yourself, and less risky that you'll take too much off.


                  • #10
                    Also, you can make your own setup block; the simplest is to use a straight piece of track, then put the car on it and see how the guide/braids are sitting.

                    Going a step further, if you have a circular saw and a piece of 1/2" thick flat plastic (like a block of lexan) or a piece of mdf or other flat wood, you can set the blade to carve a slot in it. The end-on view of how things are sitting is invaluable.

                    There are also some very nice custom made setup blocks available, and usually at a reasonable price, from various sources; check out our advertisers!


                    • #11
                      The standard slot it guides are 6.5mm deep (if I remember correctly). You need to shave it down to 5.7mm for the SCX track. Also filling the guide a bit at the front and at the rear, making it more 'pointy' would help reduce binding in the slot and will also improve laptimes.
                      Apart from that, correct front axle height and front tire diameter are critical.