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Can we get an Oxigen Primer ???

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  • #31
    Hi Guys,

    New on here but a 50 year old kid reborn.

    Despite reading all the info on the slot.it site, including the Base System Description.pdf, I am still struggling with the actual components I need and a Primer would have been very helpful.

    In fact a pictorial setup of various scenarios would really help as a picture paints a thousand words.

    I'm looking to upgrade my current Analog Scaley setup to digital. Having spent countless hours on the web trying to decide the best system for my setup, I opted for Oxigen as the way forward for me.

    Current setup is:
    * 24m Analog Scalextric Sport
    * 4 X C7036 lane changers - currently installed on analog track but flippers taped
    * 2 X C7007 lane changes - currently installed on analog track, flippers taped & power modded for analog use
    * 2 X C7008 lane changes - currently installed on analog track, flippers taped & power modded for analog use
    * 1 X C7014 Pit lane - currently installed on analog track, flippers taped
    * ARC One with break mod
    * 11 Analog Scalextric cars 4 slot.it analog cars and more slot.it's coming.
    * Variable 9-15V 30A PSU

    This looks like my definitive Oxigen list but please let me know if this is all I need:
    * Slot.it SCP-2 Controller with oXigen Cartridge (X2) Correct for 2 cars
    * Slot.it oXigen USB Dongle (X1) Correct to operate the O2 software and RMS system for your track
    * Slot.it oXigen Digtial Car Chip Type B (X2) for my 2 slot.it McLaren F1 GTR's initially. Correct and these have the Hall Sensor fitted
    * Slot.it oXigen Hall Sensors (1 for each car) Not needed
    * Slot.it oXigen SCP 9v Battery Holder (X2)Correct plus the case for the battery holder and Li-ion battery 14500 and charger

    Later I'll add:
    * SISP15B: Slot.it Universal Hornby SSD Upgrade PCB (1 for each Scalextric car) or do you guys recommend sticking with the Type B chip? I believe the B chip can provide greater current.SISP15B is a upgrade SSD chip not oXigen
    * Type B chips to remaining slot.it's. Oxigen chips are required to run an O2 or oXigen system.
    * Slot.it oXigen SCP Li-ion Battery Holders Correct

    So a few questions:
    1. Does this look correct from the standpoint of getting me started? Yes but not sure regarding curved changers and mod's you may have done. O2 will run Scalextric SSD straight changers without any problems, or you run O206a modified Scalextric changers that will be available form an oXigen Center. Difference is the O2 modified changers will run anti collision, straight ahead reset and selective lane change features. Standard SSD changers will not
    2. Are there any other components that I need to add to this list?
    3. I want to incorporate the lane changers but I am struggling to get my head around how this works with Oxigen. Is it plug and play? Yes with SSD straight changers unmodified, not sure regarding modifications and will check on curve changers.
    4. Do I need a C7042 6 Car Power Base? Pretty sure I don't for O2.No the C7042 base is not required. Sytem will run wireless through the dongle. this will communicate with the cars and controllers via 2.4 GHz wireless signal. Track is in effect a huge battery powered up all the time. The car power can be adjusted via the RMS system used. Please fuse the track as any short could do a lot of harm to the track rails etc.
    5. Do I need a Cartridge Radio Interface (CRI)? This seems to have me stumped. No this is for running wireless analog. In effect the CRI module is chipping the lane so the analog cars can run with a wireless controller. The car would not be digital nor would it need to have a chip. But this is not for O2 this is to run an analog track wireless
    To quote from the Base System Description.pdf
    "In detail, the CRI is a pocket size receiver accepting any SCP cartridge: think of it as the top of the SCP controller, but with no knobs or trigger. It connects by 2.4GHz radio link to the oXigen cartridge which is plugged into the SCP controller, and transmits in real time the power, brake and any other commands (lane change, lights, etc.) coming from the controller to the cartridge, thus creating a wireless, remote control SCP system for all the SCP-1 supported systems: .

    How does it all work? As far as the SCP + O2 cartridge know, the CRI is just an O2 car chip. At the CRI end instead, the data received from the SCP are passed on to the final cartridge. It's very simple."


    Not so simple to a novice like me - I assume I don't need a CRI but want to order the whole system in one hit so that I can get it set up over a weekend and it would be a drag to miss out a vital component. I will clear this with Slot.it but not sure how a CRI would or could work in an O2 set up. You could use it with an SSD module or Digital universal module to run SSD or other Digital systems wireless. As far as I know the CRI would not be needed or used in an oXigen or O2 system as you have the wireless module for O2 fitted in your car so no need to have a CRI as well. Slot.it should be able to clear this up

    Having said that if I do need to purchase the CRI? that is another 65 on top of the 400 odd pounds that I have in my definitive Oxigen list.No you need O2 type controllers, O2 receiving chips in the cars. Magnetic triggers on the track to sense laps and pit lane action. A full powered track and SSD straight lane chagers and Pit lanes if required.

    I am planning to go O2 - initially with the slot.it RMS but will look at the alternatives later. You do need an RMS system to score laps, and all the other features Slot.it RMS is a great place to start.
    RMS is important for me as I like to tinker as well as race.

    Thanks chaps

    Regards
    scorpio
    Last edited by Scaleracing; 06-03-2016, 02:25 PM.

    Comment


    • #32
      I will post replies in your post above.

      We are building up our supplies of the O2 or oXigen system and components here at the ScaleRacing Center.
      Alan Smith
      SCI Owner.
      www.scaleracing.com
      www.slotcarillustrated.com
      www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
      www.132slotcar.us

      1-253-255-1807

      Comment


      • #33
        Thanks

        Wow Alan,
        Many thanks taking the trouble to post such a detailed reply.

        So based on the fact that I don't need the external hall sensors I could buy another Digitial Car Chip Type B - that's nice. I assume the magnets are still placed under the track to the right of the slot (looking down on the car)

        The curved changer power mod is simply disconnecting the power link between the two lanes. That threw me the first time I put them in the layout.

        I'll look out for the 0206a LC, but currently my supplier does not stock them.

        I'll probably order the parts this coming weekend and will post back on my results when I am up and running.

        Regards
        -s

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by Scorpio View Post
          * 2 X C7007 lane changes - currently installed on analog track, flippers taped & power modded for analog use
          * 2 X C7008 lane changes - currently installed on analog track, flippers taped & power modded for analog use
          * Slot.it oXigen SCP 9v Battery Holder (X2)Correct plus the case for the battery holder and Li-ion battery 14500 and charger
          I can confirm that you did the right thing to your curved lane changers. They will work for oXigen cars, just like the straight ones do. The modified ones from slot.it are nice, and you might look into replacing yours with them in the future, though I don't believe they have plans to do the curved ones, as Scalextric are no longer making those. When pairing your cars and controllers, follow the instructions to put them into Hornby (SSD) mode, so that the cars will trigger the flippers to be straight when they are not wishing to change lanes. Otherwise, the flipper will remain in its last position, potentially causing unwanted lane changing.

          You don't need the battery holders unless you want to be walking around while racing. The controllers are designed to take power from the track like analog controllers, so it's easy to set up power stations all around your track in order to distribute racers. The battery packs are nice, though. Slot.it will also be releasing a controller that has the wireless built in as well as designed for internal battery(s) (SCP2.4Ghz). You might want to hold off on buying a LOT of controllers until then. Also, the Scalextric ARC Air/Pro controllers can be reprogrammed to control oXigen cars, so you may be able to supply guests with those controllers at a significant savings. Those who "get into it" can get the SCP2.4ghz controller when it comes out.

          Originally posted by Scorpio View Post
          I assume the magnets are still placed under the track to the right of the slot (looking down on the car)
          That's the standard, but given how cheap magnets are, especially for those with a lot of cars that they take magnets out of, it's not uncommon to put magnets on both sides of the slot. That way, if a chip is installed with the sensor on the wrong side, it will still work, and avoid the confusion caused by the car not counting laps and not knowing why.

          Comment


          • #35
            MrFlippant,

            Thanks for the clarification on the LC's.
            Does anyone know where the slot.it LC's can be purchased in the UK?

            Re' Battery holders; my son & myself both agree that with our current track layout on the floor that battery holders are a must as stepping around the track to re-slot is a big drag.

            Having said that, the track will eventually go on a 5m long MDF 'L' table once my daughter finally moves out of her attic bedroom next year. This room will then become a family 'Craft' & 'Games' room.

            I did plan to put some power stations around the table just as a backup.

            Now you've done it though, just as I was thinking about pressing the go button and ordering the whole lot, you spring the new controllers on me. What's a boy to do?

            Regards
            -s

            Comment


            • #36
              The oXigen lane changers are not available for sale yet, as far as I know. Slot.it has been teasing an announcement for a few weeks. I expect that this may be part of that announcement.

              As for controllers, just get a couple SCP2 anyway. There's a VERY simple battery mod you can do to install a LiPo RC battery into the handle and eliminate the cord and battery box entirely. I'll send you a link to the DIY info. I've done it to both my controllers, and it works really well.

              Just don't go buying more until their announcement or when the other ones are available.

              Comment


              • #37
                I have Oxigen - left me breathless

                Thanks for all your help guys.

                I bit the bullet and got my Oxigen system last week.
                Despite all the initial confusion, the system turned out to be extremely simple.
                2 X SCP2's
                2 X Type B chips
                2 X Battery holders
                1 X Dongle
                I also purchased a couple of slot.it Universal Lighting Kits (although I'm awaiting delivery)

                I decided to chip my 2 McLaren GTR's as they were the only two identical cars I have and although a bit twitchy on my analogue circuit, they are great fun to drive as you have to think ahead all the time.

                The chip installation in the GTR's was not a breeze for a few reasons:
                * Chip can only fit over the motor & guide leads on the chips were too short - fitted new leads
                * Chip interfered with the cockpit - removed cockpit
                * No way to fix the chip to the chassis - white electrical tape

                Once I'd figured out how to program the SCP and link the cars I was up and running - what a revelation!

                Straight away, the cars felt more responsive in both acceleration & braking.
                It took a while to get used to the control as it was so different to what I have been used to but once I got the hang of it I was able to get some pretty fast laps in.
                All the LC's simply just work, I'm especially pleased about this as I have been buying them up with a view that one day I would go digital. These really do add a new level to my slot racing experience. I had one incident after pitting that the pit lane LC stayed diverted to the pit and the following car slammed into the stationary one.
                Pretty sure that only happened once though but I'll keep an eye on it. When I get a chance I'll lengthen the pit entry lane as well.
                Also had an incident after a rather heavy de-slot whereby the LC's stopped working for that car. On inspection the chip had moved out of alignment.

                Slightly OT, how do you guys secure the chips in your cars?

                I have a way to go yet in improving my times but I'm in the middle of some major house renovations right now so simply don't have the time to 'play'.

                I had a spare Gigabyte Brix i5 knocking around so installed Chronos and was up and running in O2 mode within 15 minutes. I will start a new thread later about Chronos as I found a few issues with it.

                So in regard to this thread and a message to slot.it - not so much a primer but a basic parts list would be really useful for different setups for example:
                * O2
                * Mixed Analog & Digital
                * Analog only
                etc.

                Once you have all the parts, figuring out how to make it work is relatively easy.

                Thanks guys

                -s
                Last edited by Scorpio; 06-22-2016, 03:52 AM.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Heya, Scorpio! Great read about your journey into digital. Chronos isn't perfect, but it's free and slot.it usually fix any problems in a matter of days if not hours. New features may take longer, though. Note that PC Lap Counter supports oXigen, and RCS64 (known to SSD users) will also have an oXigen version in the not too distant future.

                  You mentioned that your chips needed to be installed over the motor, but you didn't mention installing LEDs on leads for lane changing. I assume you did that?

                  As for how to stick the chips down, I usually just use a small ball of blue-tak, that stuff you get in office supply stores to put posters on walls without damaging the wall. A dab of hot glue is also suitable. Just make sure there's no chance of the chip shorting on the motor can, or for the ferrite man legs doing the same. In some cases, it's good practice to either cover the ferrite man legs in tape, or the can itself where the ferrite man is installed.

                  Mixed analog/digital or Analog only is really just as simple as an analog-only track. All your lap counting and power would be the same for a fully analog track. If you want to "mix" the two, just make sure the digital lanes have full power (using a jumper cable or plug that connects the white and black at the driver stations) and that any lane changers that allow a digital car to move into the analog lanes (or vice versa) are taped down in the correct position to prevent lane changing.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Mr Flippant,

                    Thanks for replying.
                    I've had a quick play with the PcLapCounter demo, a really polished package and Oxigen worked great and for 50 it really is good value for money, so will probably go that route. I think Chronos is a bit too geeky for my younger kids.

                    The chip sits over the motor pod not over the motor and the onboard LED is able to line up with the hole. This is when I discovered the leads were too short. Moving the chip forward was not an option as it would then foul on the front axil. There is not a whole lot of space in the GTR but it all fitted OK in the end. I suppose my comment was more to do with the leads being too short, I can see this being an issue with some of my other cars but I'll just make sure to buy in plenty of silicon cable.

                    I thought about using blu-tak but it always dries out whenever I've tried to hang my kids pictures with it. Now hot-glue, thats the way forward.

                    Re ferrite man, I just put a bit of heat-shrink over it.

                    I'll probably do my two GT-40's next as they are also great fun to drive despite their high COG, then the Audi's and Porsches. Eventually getting round (when budget permits) to my Scalextic cars.

                    Cheers
                    -s

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