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  • Peugeot 406 White kit

    Hi All, After buying my first Spirit and getting a real LEMON I have been tempted to buy the Peugot 406 white kit. It comes with alum wheels and is non mag, really looks the part. Has any one purchased one of these, can you give a run down on its performance handling running abilities etc.
    Thanks Bill

  • #2
    I have one of the 406 white "sport" cars. It is a great runner although it did need some work. Different people tune cars differently but for me i replaced the rear tyres with NSR 19x10. There isn't any room for a wider tyre unfortunately. I also set the front end by taking the grub screws from the top of the adjustable front and screwing them into the holes at the front and setting the axle on top getting it up higher then used two normal size 3mm to set the axle from the top. I replaced the guide (even though it is not bad) with a slot it wood guide and trimmed the very front of the chassis to allow the guide to rotate freely. ( This gave me over a tenth on a seven -eight second track) Mine came with odd length suspension screws so i replaced them with Ninco pro race but the ones i got with the silhouette were perfect so maybe its pot luck. The motor mount is very poor so gluing the motor is an absolute necessity. Also comes with the xxx motor which i think is a great motor but a little overpowered for a car of this width. I race mine in touring car class with an NC5 as the control motor. It is pretty competitive Nnco meganes and NSR clios are the weapons of choice for most but this car is pretty good (shame about the driver). If you ae able to run with the xxx you will win easily.

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    • #3
      The club I'm going to raced these cars last week (and we'll race them tomorrow). I used a borrowed car because I don't have one of these myself. The motor has been glued in and lightly tuned. SuperTires have been used on the back and these cars were quite fast.

      The XXX motor isn't overpowering and is quite smooth in fact.

      Which car was the Lemon? Was it the Coupe or the Silhoeutte?

      DaveK

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      • #4
        Originally posted by DaveKennedy View Post
        The club I'm going to raced these cars last week (and we'll race them tomorrow). I used a borrowed car because I don't have one of these myself. The motor has been glued in and lightly tuned. SuperTires have been used on the back and these cars were quite fast.

        The XXX motor isn't overpowering and is quite smooth in fact.

        Which car was the Lemon? Was it the Coupe or the Silhoeutte?

        DaveK
        Hi Dave, the first Spirit I purchased was the Porsche Dijon 76, I had all sorts of trouble with it and now like the look of the Peugeot white kit, it just has that look that appeals to me.
        can you tell me if you have to put much weight into the car to get it handling right.

        Thanks Bill
        Last edited by swf; 07-20-2008, 09:41 AM.

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        • #5
          Ah, I had a few problems with my 936 as well.

          Well the cars we raced with the other day I don't think had any weight. I have a normal 406 Sil. that I've built for the RAA and it had weight in the nose. But mostly because I race a lot on wood which is a fairly high grip surface. On a lower grip surface like most plastic track I don't know that you'd need any weight. They only way to know if your car might need weight is for you to test one after you get it.

          I can tell you that the molding work and finish on the Peugeot's is much more refined feeling. I wouldn't have much hesitation telling you to buy one, and the Porsche 936 might be a bit more of a project car in my personal experience.

          Dave

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          • #6
            I've got the 406 Silhoeutte, the biggest problem i've found, is the motor pod being to flexible, which creates a ninco like hop out of corners, plenty of hot glue cured that problem.
            I also threw out the front tyres as they weren't round, and i replaced the rears with N.S.R's, I placed aprox 8 grams of weight just behind the front axle, and this thing is a monster, very quick, but on the edge.
            It is aprox 2/10ths quicker than a well tuned/behaved SlotIt Nissan 390Gt on my 59 foot track.
            I've no doupt with a bit more fiddling it will go much quicker.
            Grab one Bill, once tamed it will not dissapoint.

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            • #7
              Setting up the 406 Sil

              Hi guys

              a bit of advice needed. I have a 406 widebody - the "silhouette".
              It feels well balanced and smooth runnning static, and in a straight line is well behaved. But as soon as you start to push it through corners, t makes a loud grinding sound - not caused from anything rubbing in the drive chain, but a vibration between the chassis and the body. The way the chassis and body are inset underneath in that triangular sort of arrangement, makes it very difficult to make the body float freely and independently of any chassis flex.

              It is so loud it puts every driver off their racing, and causes the car to shudder.

              Has anyone else experienced this -and how did oyu fix it? I haven't attempted to sand the chassis, but was wondering whether to simply grind off a good 1mm all round it for a start to give some free-board

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SlotsNZ View Post
                Hi guys

                a bit of advice needed. I have a 406 widebody - the "silhouette".
                It feels well balanced and smooth runnning static, and in a straight line is well behaved. But as soon as you start to push it through corners, t makes a loud grinding sound - not caused from anything rubbing in the drive chain, but a vibration between the chassis and the body. The way the chassis and body are inset underneath in that triangular sort of arrangement, makes it very difficult to make the body float freely and independently of any chassis flex.

                It is so loud it puts every driver off their racing, and causes the car to shudder.

                Has anyone else experienced this -and how did oyu fix it? I haven't attempted to sand the chassis, but was wondering whether to simply grind off a good 1mm all round it for a start to give some free-board
                Hey SlotsNZ!

                Take a look at the rear tires - do you any where that the body and tires or the wheel well and tires are coming in contact with one another? Only reason I ask is that my Esso Silhouette made a sound like this and I thought it was the gearing. What I noticed was the wheels touching the body/wheel well. Check and see if the floating pod is allowing the wheels to touch the body/wheel well. If so, you may need to do what I did which was lock the floating pod down by tightening the screws all the way down. It stopped the noise and actually made the car run some better lap times.

                Hope that helps!
                PD2

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                • #9
                  Nup, done all those basics

                  Originally posted by PD2 View Post
                  Hey SlotsNZ!

                  Take a look at the rear tires - do you any where that the body and tires or the wheel well and tires are coming in contact with one another? Only reason I ask is that my Esso Silhouette made a sound like this and I thought it was the gearing. What I noticed was the wheels touching the body/wheel well. Check and see if the floating pod is allowing the wheels to touch the body/wheel well. If so, you may need to do what I did which was lock the floating pod down by tightening the screws all the way down. It stopped the noise and actually made the car run some better lap times.

                  Hope that helps!
                  PD2
                  I think it's almost certainly a harmonic caused by the poor design of how the chassis and body are interfaced on the chassis pan. It certainly doesn't involve the actual drive train, I currently have the body and all screwed down tight - running it loose makes it worse. After a few hundred laps, there would also be some evidence of rubbing both ion tyres and body, if it was flexing to allow mechanical contact between tyres and body.

                  I think it is just that the lateral forces under traction cause vibration, and set up a harmonic between the body and chassis.

                  Short of butchering the chassis, or at least sanding a full 1mm all round the chassis, I can't think of a fix.

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                  • #10
                    Hi slotz I had the same problem with mine. I had the white kit of both the 406 and the silhouette. I put on some NSR tyres and tuned them which caused them to expand a little and had that body tyre rub out of slow corners on hard acceleration. It caused the car to be a little unsettled and on one of the tracks i run on it often deslotted after one particular sweeping corner if i hit it hard. I fixed it by using a craft knife and gently trimming some of the wheel well away then placing a 1 mm axle spacer over the front post and a 2mm axle spacer over the rear post then screwing in the long suspension screws that came with the kit. It keeps the body a fraction higher and off the wheels. Once the tyres wore down a bit i took them off and re di it the again with the addition of new tyres. Hope this helps.

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                    • #11
                      I'm assuming the Silhouette has the spring loaded pod like the 406 Coupe of which I have two, being the fastest GT1 cars I've owned and always made me look good on the track until they were moved up to LeMans for being too fast. I still think it's the gear ratio and a torquey motor and not the rpms that make it so fast.

                      For the umpteenth time..screw the pod down tight and float the chassis with a small shim at the back screw, which will eliminate the hop and the competition. Try som Slot.it rubber if you really want to hook up on wood.

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                      • #12
                        The grinding sound is probably from the gear mesh. the motor pod is flexing and this makes the gear mesh badly when cornering hard. Try to stiffen the pod, especially between the motor and the axle posts.

                        It also helps to file out the pod opening in the chassis to make sure the pod and gears can move freely, and slightly loosen the front pod mount. The rear springs are too hard for non-mag. A shim between the spur gear and the bushing also helps.

                        I have only tuned the silhouette for no-mag proxy racing, so don't listen to me if you use magnets.
                        Last edited by 356speedster; 08-04-2008, 11:08 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Update on a "problem child"

                          I was probably unclear in saying "grinding sound" earlier, as it was more a hollow sort of noise, so I knew that was generated within the body shell.

                          Nonetheless, I took on board what guys said about wheel arches etc.

                          I suspected the tyres might be swelling off the rims, as they are quite a soft rubber, and top end speed at 13.8V is about 32 Km/H. I couldn't see any rubbing evidence on the inside of the rear wheel arches, but I was unhappy that the drive side wheel sat 3mm wide of the spur gear and the tyre was directly below the wheel arch, being about 0.5mm proud of the flare of the guard. It was fully inserted, so my only option was to twist it off, dremel 3m off the axle, re-hone /shape the end, then used my pin vice to drill a hle in the cente of the hub, insert 1 ka-zillionth of a drop of CYA glue and refit the wheel. That worked fine.

                          The opposite side wheel was pretty tight on the chassis, and it was possible the tyre was rubbing there, so I twisted it out to give .25mm clearance. So far it is still tight on the axle, so haven't bothered to remove, drill, glue etc.

                          Spotted one bush loose in the hub, turning ever so slowly in the chassis - despite having been glued the day I got the car, touched that up. Wasn't happy wth the amount of rock in the front axle, so wound the adjustment screws all the way home till they touched the axle, then backed off enough to make it spin freely, front end not as stable as I liked, so backed off another half turn, giving 0.1mm??? roughly of rock either side....that feels better.

                          I still had the hollow noise though, it took more extreme cornering to generate it, but when occuring, just as loud.....so I dremeled and sanded 1mm off the chassis all round.
                          Result - silence, blessed silence.
                          Only problem now is, I can see the tyres are swelling on the rims at the greater speeds I can now generate in cornering.....that was probably setting up the initial resonance....
                          Keep popping the tyres off the rims under hard cornering. Tired F2 contact adhesive, smeared evenly on whole hub surface, dried overnight..... didn't hold, problem re-ocurred after a few laps.....mutter mutter

                          Removed tyres, laboriously picked every scrap of contact adhesive from hubs, started sifting the tyre war-chest for suitable silicons. Tried IndyGrip 2086s, tried Slot.it 20 x 10, tried Slot.it 19 x10 (for a tighter fit on the hub, a simple tip Maurizio suggested recently if you don't want to glue tyres to hubs)
                          A bit more grip than the stock SPIRIT tyres.... but with all those tyres I get hop out of corners, despite the car running smooth as a bowling ball on my speed checker....not sure if that is just because the stronger "hookup" to my track is causing chassis flex and a "ninco-hop".......or some other problem...DANG, I'm ticked !!!! ...I think I'll go vent my frustrations at SCI for a while, .......and have another coffee...

                          at least I've got rid of the flaming noise !!!!!
                          Last edited by SlotsNZ; 08-05-2008, 02:32 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Hi again. If you are running the standard motor which I am guessing is either the sxxx or the s3x and 13.8 volts gluing your tyres will be an absolute necessity no amount of small tyre large hub will keep those babies on with that type of torque and speed. I use loctite 480 and the toothpick technique of running the toothpick under the lip of the tyre and swirling the stick as i run it round to get an even distribution of glue. 480 is great for sticking rubber to metal and will hold your tyres on. Most types of superglue will work I just found this one the best so far. Dont forget to glue both sides of the tyre to the rim as many racers only do the outside and wonder why they still get flex and hop. Flashback debonder is great for removing superglue after your tyres need replacing and will get your rims perfectly clean again after you have ripped your tyres off.

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                            • #15
                              Rehabilitation of the "problem child"

                              Well guys,

                              it now sits still in class, listens to the teacher, and runs repsecable lap times to boot.

                              The clever Mr Livingstone was sitting on the last clue to the puzzle, which I spotted on a thread in the Slot.it area.
                              I have copied and included his picture below, mine looks the same.

                              It looked like he had just hot-glued these braces in, so I just quickly copied .......ooops "researched" his work into my car. I thought maybe the hot glue wouldn't provide a stiff enough bridge between the axle bushes and the motor, but maybe it cushions as well as braces, anyway, it works just fine.

                              Result........smooth WITH the grip of silicons, and 2 - 3/10ths drop per lap time on my home track from around 6.2 - 6.3, now able to crack the 6 second barrier.

                              It is now "in the zone" of the lap times it should be running, ie, Slot.it and FLY racing Capri type times.

                              From here I can fine tune the pod, body rock etc to get the last bit out of it.......
                              WHY I never thought of this, I do not know....after all, it is a soft flat chassis with a big strong motor...anyway, "sorted" !!!

                              Thanks Robert Livingstone.
                              Last edited by SlotsNZ; 09-12-2008, 02:17 PM.

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