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B-Nova adapters for Pioneer

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Pioneer View Post
    I hope this isn't a dumb question........

    What is so wrong with the standard guide/braids that you need to swap out for a different one?

    I only ask to see if there is an improvement we can make in that area.

    Thanks

    Jules
    Too much slop/play in your guides for my liking. A screw in guide like the Slot.it variety eliminates this.

    Comment


    • #17
      Versatility

      Originally posted by Pioneer View Post
      I hope this isn't a dumb question........

      What is so wrong with the standard guide/braids that you need to swap out for a different one?

      I only ask to see if there is an improvement we can make in that area.

      Thanks

      Jules
      Hi Jules,
      My reason for making the modifiers was to be able to switch between the larger Slot.it wood guide (the same size as a carrera guide) and a standard Slot.it guide depending on which track I was racing on. I have Scalextric sport track and a routed wood track. I have several of each type of guide shaped the way I like and switch them back and forth as needed. They also solved a bad breakage problem that Scalextric has on their chassis. I haven't heard that pioneer has that problem at all. The hole in the pioneer chassis is the same as Scalextric so they work to make the change just the same.
      Thanks,
      Bob

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Pioneer View Post
        I hope this isn't a dumb question........

        What is so wrong with the standard guide/braids that you need to swap out for a different one?

        I only ask to see if there is an improvement we can make in that area.

        Thanks

        Jules
        Hi Jules,

        There's a couple of reasons why I prefer the Slot.It guide.

        1. There is quite a bit of slop in some guides - I find that the Chargers are worse for this than the Mustangs - and having a screw-fit guide takes that out. The slop is generally front to back rocking that can make the guide 'dig in' on bad track joins. I tried modifying the standard Pioneer guide with a pair of snips and a self-tapping screw but for various reasons they came out, so I changed to the Slot.It as a more reliable screw guide. That said Pioneer guides are much better than the recent Scalextric ones. I also change the Monogram ones but those don't require a conversion kit.

        2. This is the more serious problem for me: I always have trouble with those brass clips on the guide end of your lead wires. I have had wires snap off before and then in replacing them the heat from the soldering iron can anneal the brass, making them almost impossible for me to push in with my big fingers. Despite all of the problems I had originally getting eyelets in (until I got the hang of it) I find it easier than dealing with bendy clips soldered to the end of lead wires. Also I can just use the same 1 metre roll of braid that I use on all my cars.

        I still have one Pioneer Mustang that I race with a completely standard chassis. Jerry Titus.

        The only area that I feel really needs improvement is the strength of the front axle mounting. I have ruined one chassis by bending the mounting tag over. I now reinforce them with styrene tubing. I think though that people who do not pull their cars apart a lot are unlikely to have this issue.
        Last edited by Burglar; 05-30-2012, 08:51 PM.

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        • #19
          Bob, thanks for explaining that. Several Scalextric models have exhibited a weakness on the guide mount. We noted this when designing our chassis and made sure we eliminated any weakness here. I have not seen a Pioneer chassis break yet.

          Our guides are 1mm deeper than a standard Scalextic one. Also we include a deeper guide in the spares bag.

          Porsche Racer, there is a MKII guide in production which will take up the majority of the front/back play.

          Burglar, thanks for your explanation. We have to bear in mind that most folks don't take the models apart and I wanted to avoid having to unscrew the chassis simply to change braids.
          I think it is a personal preference. I just don't get on with eyelets.
          We have had more praise for the EZfit braids than negatives so I figure we must stick with the design.
          I have not heard of any problems with the front axle bush mounts. As you say, this is more likely to be an issue with the 'Take-Aparters'

          In summary, I don't think we over-engineered the guide. It does work. Push in-pull out. But as Redlynr mentioned, some folks prefer the traditional way especially if they are used to maintaining slot cars. Don't forget, many 1000's of slot cars are shelved when the braids wear out. I wanted to make it easy for the 'Guy With No Tools'.

          Bye for now,

          Jules

          Comment


          • #20
            Jules,

            Perhaps a compromise... Keep your current system, but make the guide mount hole a single smooth bore i.d. and also make the i.d. compatible with slot.it guide o.d... ?

            Comment


            • #21
              Hi Jules,

              Thanks for your response. Yeah sometimes I forget that many people just shelve cars when the braids wear out! I seem to have the screws out of my car every meet, and have the 3m rolls of braid ...

              One mistake I made that exacerbated the front mount problem: in order to maximize body float I ground down the tabs on the body that touch on the bushes. While this does not seem to have had any negative effect up back, this did remove a source of reinforcement up front and made the standard mounts more vulnerable. I do think though that these could be thickened somehow if you retool at some point or develop a third chassis, as I am not the only person to have experienced this problem. I know of a couple of others here locally. To my mind this is a bigger issue than the guide, as guides can be changed if you want to as a matter of choice, but axle mount breakages are horrible accidents that often end up in a car being resigned to the parts bin and leave a sour taste in the mouth with regard to further purchases.

              That said, I have bought, and will continue to buy, further models from Pioneer. The handling on them is generally excellent out of the box, at least once the front tyres have been sanded down.

              Comment


              • #22
                Hi Jules,

                Thanks for your response. Yeah sometimes I forget that many people just shelve cars when the braids wear out! I seem to have the screws out of my car every meet, and have the 1m rolls of braid ...

                One mistake I made that exacerbated the front mount problem: in order to maximize body float I ground down the tabs on the body that touch on the bushes. While this does not seem to have had any negative effect up back, this did remove a source of reinforcement up front and made the standard mounts more vulnerable. I do think though that these could be thickened somehow if you retool at some point or develop a third chassis, as I am not the only person to have experienced this problem. I know of a couple of others here locally. To my mind this is a bigger issue than the guide, as guides can be changed if you want to as a matter of choice, but axle mount breakages are horrible accidents that often end up in a car being resigned to the parts bin and leave a sour taste in the mouth with regard to further purchases.

                That said, I have bought, and will continue to buy, further models from Pioneer. The handling on them is generally excellent out of the box, at least once the front tyres have been sanded down.
                Last edited by Burglar; 05-30-2012, 08:53 PM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Pioneer View Post
                  Porsche Racer, there is a MKII guide in production which will take up the majority of the front/back play.

                  Bye for now,

                  Jules
                  Well now. That is good news Jules. Thanks for responding.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Redlynr, I will check and see if we can make any changes that will enable the use of a slot.it guide with simplicity.

                    Burglar, I know why you filed down the tabs on the underside of the hood. These tabs effectively trap the bush into place to prevent the axle bushes 'popping' out of the snap-fit under pressure. I can see that is is possible to thicken up the snap-fit bush holder. I will ask to see if we can amend this to allow for anyone making robust changes with a file or Dremel.

                    Incidentally, the reason for size of the tires, their overall diameter and the relation to the position of the braids is because some plastic track rails (NINCO in particular) are higher than the track. We had to have this small variance to make sure that the braids pick up power adequately from all plastic track.

                    It is evident that on a woody the power rails can almost be flush with the wood track. In these circumstances, a smaller diameter tire would allow the car to sit lower and deeper in the groove. I can tell you that we now have two additional guides in tooling specifically designed to get rid of any issues in this area.

                    Porsche Racer, we get plenty of suggestions that would enable small benefits in performance on different tracks. I personally note them all and initiate changes that most folks would not even notice. Suffice to say that these changes can only be incremental but it is a constant improvement program.

                    Thanks to you all for taking time to make useful comments.

                    All the best,

                    Jules

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Thanks Jules, I realize that there are reasons why the tyres are like that, so I just make sure to adjust them for our track. What I usually do is put the tyres on the back of this old Bullitt Mustang I've got that's worse for wear, sand them down on the truing block until the gear hits, and then put them on the front of my race car. That pretty much fixes the problem of deslots. I've used the deeper guide, and it is better, but I prefer to have more of the cars weight on the braids, so that tyres just brush the track surface. I don't find the deeper keel as helpful as lowering the guide or lifting the axle. Our wood track has recessed braid, not tape, but it is level with the track surface. Some of the track joins aren't as good as tape tracks I've raced on, and that's one reason why the looser fitting guide assembly sometimes 'digs in' at the joins. My friend who has the tape track was blown away by the performance of the Jerry Titus car with just the tyres sanded on his track and wants to get one of his own. It seems really suited to his tight 'super 8' three lane track.

                      I'm really happy with the QS 18K motor with a 13/36 gearing. I've never received any cars with the 13T pinion, so I use the NSR 7113. This works fine with the Slot.It 1936 gear but it seems that it is a little large to mesh properly with the standard gear, according to another forum member. You might want to sell the 13T pinion as a separate part for those who didn't get it with their cars, as there seems to be a lot of stock out there that doesn't come with it. Thanks for looking into the chassis issue, I hope the Javelin has a thicker axle mount

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                      • #26
                        Thanks Bob for the sets of adapters (Pioneer, Scalextric, and Carrera), they arrived yesterday in fine shape. I will post some pics if you like when I get around to converting my Lady Luck Charger over to the Slot.It guide using your new spacer for the Pioneer cars.

                        From my experience so far I'd say that these conversions get easier each time you do them, as you build up a routine. This Charger won't take long at all, especially if I can retain the standard wiring.

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                        • #27
                          I've tried the adapter for Pioneer with a slot-it guide with no luck. Is there a secret? The guide falls out with the screw all the way in. Next step is to find a longer screw with a washer. Any ideas?

                          Thanks

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                          • #28
                            A longer screw will work or you can use a drill a little larger then the screw head washer and counter bore down to the top of the modifier. This can be done by hand, go slow, remember only the tip of a drill has a cutting edge. See post #2 in this thread.
                            Last edited by bnovamodels; 09-13-2013, 02:18 PM.

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