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DRS Lane Gate for Carrera Digital

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  • #31
    Adding a switch opens up several possibilities. As the write-up will show, a switch could be installed in a couple of different ways. One method simply causes the lane changer to ignore the Lane Gate. A more elaborate method would allow you to change the size of the detection area.

    Why turn it off? For the reason EmanTama gave in post #28. Experienced racers don't need it.

    Change the size of the detection zone? The ideal detection zone is as short as possible, just long enough to protect the cars. If you have cars/drivers that are lapping at similar speeds, the detection zone can be smaller. In a scenario where you have drivers of varying experience (perhaps kids of different ages) and cars set to different maximum power levels, you might want a larger zone. Ghost cars running at fixed speed add another kind of "user" to the mix.
    Last edited by Earthbound; 08-27-2014, 11:53 PM. Reason: fixed typo

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    • #32
      Lane gates came in - yay... ordered the solder ones. Yay. No track clips in box. Boo. I have made my own before so I guess iI'll get some strip again. Wish I would have known though. I could of had wife pick strips up. She is leaving for beach in a.m. I drive 90 miles each way to work. With a 10.5 hour day, I don't go into town by the time I get home. Lol. Any progress on switch installation instructions? Thanks in advance....

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      • #33
        My phone won't download the tech instructions tonight. After reviewing the other one I think I realize that I can use some of the existing jumper ones. Cool. I am a little slow sometimes. Lol. But at least I got a post closer to upload pics. Thanks for the quality products. They look good and I can't wait to install them.

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        • #34
          The [tech] option saves money by deleting the clips and splices (re-purposes clips that need to be removed from the track anyway, and relies on installer's soldering skills). The [easy] option includes the extra pieces and eliminates any need to solder. This is described on the DRS Lane Gate web page.

          Links to instructions are on the same page, and can also on the support page. For [easy] option, just grab the relevant installation document (there is one for each application Left, Right, and Double). For the [tech] option, you'll also want to grab the [tech] installation supplement.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by EmanTama View Post
            Any progress on switch installation instructions? Thanks in advance....
            A good write-up with photos covering the installation of a defeat switch will exist eventually.

            Here is short summary of how to easily defeat/disable Lane Gate:

            For Lane Gate to work properly, you isolate a rail by removing a jumper and making a gap. Instead of removing the jumper, cut it in half and wire a switch between the halves. When switch is open, rail is isolated and Lane Gate prevents collisions. When switch is closed, rail is no longer isolated and Lane Gate will not detect cars.

            Makes sense?

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            • #36
              Makes perfect sense. I am not as "dense" this morning. I just wanted to be sure when I start soldering this evening. I will have plenty of time to "think" on my long ride tonight. THANKS!

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              • #37
                To create a switchable short/long detection zone, switch gets added a bit differently. This needs a "double throw" (SPDT) type switch. When creating the detection zone, make two gaps in the rail. The isolated segment closest to the flipper is the "short" zone. The detection lead of Lane Gate (the white or green wire) gets connected to the short zone. The common (usually center) terminal of the switch connects to the other isolated section of rail (the one farthest from the flipper). Short zone connects to one outer terminal of switch and normal rail connects to the other outer terminal.

                This gives you a short detection zone, and an additional zone ahead of it that can be switch between being normal track or part of the detection zone.

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                • #38
                  Installed all but one last Friday. Works like a champ. I took three double LC's and one single lc to beach over labor day weekend and set up a large NASCAR tri-oval under cabin. Used a full straight for each sensor lane due to high speeds. Running 1/24 cars with the motor conversion, I don't remember any crashes caused by switching into each other! Excellent for my cars due to track being on concrete! However I needed to bring more borders to put at switches due to tail swing at high speed through switches. Again, excellent product. Thanks...

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                  • #39
                    I was talking to a customer yesterday and since the topic is relevant to all Lane Gate users, I'm adding the details here.

                    Detection zone length is a matter of personal preference. Long detection zones stop more collisions. Short detection zones make for more realism. I like using a 1/3 straight just before the lane changer and removing the rail prong at that joint so I don't have to cut a rail.

                    But there is such a thing as too-short of a detection zone. Using a 1/3 straight works great for D132 cars, but not as well with D124 cars. The reason is simply that the D124 cars are longer. If you want maximum collision prevention, the detection zone needs to be longer than the longest car.

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                    • #40
                      Lane Gate "Double" versions will be shipping again by next week. We had a production problem that took a few weeks to overcome. The new version installs a little differently so an updated installation document will be available on the DRS website when the new version starts shipping.

                      Mike and Monte
                      Digital Racing Solutions

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