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(Finished) Brass chassis building project (Finished) FINALLY

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  • (Finished) Brass chassis building project (Finished) FINALLY

    Been asked to show how I would make up a brass chassis. So I figured I would try this one I wanted to try for something a bit different. I will try to do it step by step and then test it for performance when done.

    I figure the wheel base, body length and width, from the body to be used. In this case it is a Scalextric Mercedes DTM sedan. I then take basic dimension of the inside area plus 10 % for fitting. This was my basic brass of .050 thickness after cutting it out of one sheet. I used a band saw. But a Dremel with a cut off disk can be used as well, as I did with the tapered and small horizontal cut.

    Here the chassis has progressed a bit. I have refined the chassis contures to closely fit the body inside opening. Some trimming of the body was in order to fit the chassis flush with bottom just behind the front wheel well.

    A BWA rear bracket was fitted to the center piece where the motor will fit in. At the front a guide shoe mount piece was fabbed up to fit a TSRF guide shoe. It was then sweat soldered to the center at the right distance to have the guide clear the body front.

    Here we see that a brass tube hinge piece has been soldered to the rear end of the guide shoe piece. This has a .062 bore.

    The hinge piece is a U shaped piece of .055 music wire. This allows the center motor rear axle unit to pivot up and down and to swivel slightly side to side and twist at the same time.

    A set of down stop .039 music wire stops are added to the rear of the side pans to prevent the pans from dragging the track and to retain a flat chassis bottom.

    Here small pieces of square U channel are soldered to the center section to llimit up travel of the center section in relation to the side or body mount pans.

    Along the sides of both the pans and center section are soldered pieces of .062 Dia. brass pin tubing that have been drilled out to .039 dia.

    Then a U shaped piece of .039 Music wire is fitted over the guide shoe piece and solderd to it after being slid thru both the side tubes on each side to hold it in place. These provide a self centering mechanism to keep the pans centered to the center section at the rear after and during cornering.

    The front end now gets a front axle assembly. This made of .125 dia. brass tubing. It is contured to fit the cross axle tubing with a small round rat tail file.

    They are then fittd into .125 holes drilled on the wheelbase center line in the front. The tubes are longer than needed and will be adjusted as the chassis is aligned with the guide shoe brushs and the front wheels location to the track, then soldered in place. The brass axle tube is now solderd in place aligned with the contured mounting tubes.
    To be continued soon!.

  • #2
    Re: Brass chassis explanation follow up.

    What an excellent tutorial, Chassis construction 095.
    Keep it coming please I plan on building one along with you.
    Did you ever think of archiving all the mods/projects that you have done?
    Thanks for your contributions.
    Ray Vacca


    • #3
      Re: Brass chassis explanation follow up.

      Thanks Larry,

      I too will pick up some brass this weekend, and try your chassis project.


      • #4
        Re: Brass chassis explanation follow up. (UPDATED)

        Okay after a few days off and having my ISP off line for three days here is a follow up on my chassis.

        The chassis now has a Cheetah motor iinstalled with Slot-It gears of a 9 x 28 for a ratio of 3.11-1 when I get a slot-It 8 tooth pinion that will be used for a 3.5-1 ratio. A bit more grunt out of corners is desired. The car will be tested as is on a commercial track tommorow night.

        Pin tube body mounts have been added when the body was fitted on. The best location of the tubing was selected and the tubes soldered in place depending on where they would hit the body areas best. Then they were marked on the bottom edge of the chassis as to where they where located with a sharp marker pen.

        Then when the body is fitted down on the chassis and held in place fore and aft. A sharp pointed scriber is pushed into the body to leave a drill location mark at the pin location fore and aft and height wise up from the bottom. This mark is used to indentify where you will be drilling each hole one hole at a time. Only mark one hole and then drill not all at one time to make sure it has not slipped location on you.

        A .031 drill is used in a Dremel chuck to drill the holes carefully. A shortened straight pin is put in that hole and then you proceed to the next one on that side of the body. Then over to the other side, one hole at a time.

        Here the body has been fitted and mounted. The wheels in front are Slot-it aluminium set screw ones. With Slot it inserts from a Audi R8C I had parts left over from another project. They are close to the plastic Scaly body wheels. In Back I made up some custom aluminum wheels to use the other set of Scaly inserts. and they are a bit wider to get more grip. These are foam tires cut to size. They will be coated with Silicone after being run in for a few times on the track.

        The body will use the Scaly dash used with the rollbars used on a slightly sunken flat sheet, driver platform with a better looking Fly drivers head and upper torso used. The rear end of the Scaly DTM plastic chassis will be cut off and mounted to finish off the body rear end with the posts supplied. The Scaly front diaplane will be cut off the plastic chassis and glued back on the front of this body again.

        A vac formed windshield, side and rear window piece mold will be made up from the original and a vac unit will be used to save some upper weight distribution. Thats about it except for some extra body detailing to come, maybe even a whole new paint job and livery. More photos when finished as if they ever are.
        Have fun if you try a chassis like this.


        • #5
          brass chassis

          Larry L S

          Like your chassis, I will have to build one and put it under
          one of my Shinoda F1 body's. Thanks for your pic's



          • #6
            Re: Brass chassis finished up finally !!!!!!!!!

            Finally got the chassis and body/interior finished up. Took it down Monday night to the local commercial track and ran it in. Hey this thing "Cooks" On a 110 foot paper clip I was turning 5.0 laps flat with out pushing as I did not want to smash it first night out. Should go 4.5 easy with some tuning.

            It probably could use a bit more weight up front for my preference. No tipping tendencies or front end coming out of slot. Good grip and a bit of slide. I like it, smooth and quiet.

            I made up a vac mold for a vac wind shield and used a vac interior to keep the main weight as low as possible. It weighs in at 125 grams and will probably go to 130 with some thin strip lead up front. It has a NOS Pla-Fit Cheetah motor.

            Anyone taking a shot at building one similar, will be pleased at the results if done this way.

            Have fun and good luck.


            • #7
              Re: Brass chassis finished up finally !!!!!!!!!

              Great job Larry!!
              Thanks for taking the time to post this. I've got to try this one especially after your performance report.


              • #8
                Re: Brass chassis finished up finally !!!!!!!!!

                This car is going to go out to a few beginners at scartch building for some testing and hands on looking at how it is put together. They will test and look at its construction and then pass it on to the next guy in line and then back to me. eventually.

                Sad new though As I was testing it the other night at the commercial track a friend of mine was testing a 1/24th scale car and lost it going into the bank as mine was going in above his. Well the Scaley body Mercedes DTM body took a hugh hit and cracked the whole front of the body almost in two. It will take a long time for repairs to get it back to decent shape.

                The chassis survived intact and with no harm. I had to find another body close to fitting and decided on one of my Slot Devl vac bodies, a 1983 MOMO Audi IMSA GTP body I had just painted up for another chassis. With some filler side plates to fit the narrower chassis it fits just fine and will be the body sent out with the scratch chassis for testing.

                Here is a shot of it ready to be sent off next week.


                • #9
                  Good stuff!

                  What I would love to see is somebody attempt a contempory magnet HO car but using the brass techniques.


                  • #10
                    Some nice stuff there.


                    • #11