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Body Mounting Tips

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  • Body Mounting Tips

    So far I've been using lexan bodies on my cars and recently decided to try a hard-body model. The lexan bodies come with some extra material on the bottom so all you have to do is put the chassis under the body, you get the perfect stance, mark the holes, and you're ready to go. It's not as easy with a model body, however. When I seat the body on the chassis, the rear end of the body touches the testing block. I can lift the rear of the body up with my hands to get the stance I want, but its next to impossible to mark where the holes will go. Any suggestions on how to hold the body level and still, without using my hands so I can mark the holes?

  • #2
    You can use quarters, pop sickle sticks, what ever gives you the ride height you want.


    • #3
      I keep on hand different sizes of square styrene tubing to mix and match to get the body to the height I want it before I mark the holes to pin it.


      • #4
        Can't really explain my method.
        I just "eyeball" the alignment, drill the holes with a pin vice. Look at the location of the tube in relation to "things" on the plastic. Like various marks, molding locations, body line, fender opening location, etc.
        So far I've done pretty well.



        • #5
          I think it depends on the body and the chassis. If you are using body posts then make the posts from a plastic rod. Leave them about 1 1/4 inches long. Drill a hole in the center and tap a screw in. Mount the posts to the chassis with a screw. Set the body on top. Of course it won't sit right but that's OK. Measure from the lower edge of the body as it sits down to where you want it to sit. remove the body and trim that amount off the posts. With some minor trimming and fitting you are now ready to glue the mounts to the body.

          With side pins, set the chassis on a set up block. Put the body on the chassis. Use pennies and dimes to set the height of the body off the set up block. Get a good flashlight and shine it in through the car windows. The light will pass through the mounting holes and glow on the side of the car body. Mark with a sharpie and drill them out.
          Last edited by zipdrive; 03-17-2018, 11:18 PM.


          • #6
            Had this same problem when we started the hard body classes at the local commercial raceways in the early 1980s. Using pin tubing and pins to mount the bodies was a pain, and the rocker panels would end up being damaged after collisions with other cars and that unforgiving wall!
            The solution... use Velcro. It is easy to position the body on an L channel soldered to the chassis, and the Velcro will move and absorb much of the impact force during the inevitable wrecks that will happen during races, especially with eight racers and the speeds achieved on a large commercial track. Been doing it that way ever since, and it's a natural for the PARMA FCR chassis, too.

            Just another suggestion to help with your problem. Good luck... Ernie :>)