No announcement yet.

revo Slot tuning

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • revo Slot tuning

    bought my first Revo Slot Toyota, right out of the box testing on Carrera track: car/gears are very noisy, and once the rear end slides in the corners, the front end pops out of the slot easily. I notice a spring under the guide flag- is that the issue? The chassis appear to be well designed, but I am initially disappointed. So need advice from those that have tuned and raced these cars. The quality of the body is superb, chassis looks good too, so I am sure a few easy tuning tips will turn this car into a beast. thanks fellas

  • #2
    I also own a RevoSlot Toyota. I have been impressed by the car, both with speed and handling. The spring-loaded guide has not given me any issues. Just this past weekend I had the chance to run the car on a routed track, with the stock guide designed for the shallow grooves of plastic track. I had no problems with deslotting and cut very respectable lap times.

    The stock rear tires were good, but I have replaced them with the softer Shore 20 RevoSlot tires. I'm not sure that has made much of a difference. What did make a difference was placing a couple of pieces of masking tape across the bottom of the chassis. It seems to provide some badly needed shock absorption.

    The car is noisy. I put that down to the metal chassis. But your gears may need to be worn in. I did mine by running about 5,000 laps on my oval track, with the power turned back. Running the car with toothpaste on the gears is an old-school trick that still does the job. Just don't overdo it.

    Looking at my car just now I noticed the guide does have a bit of angular slop, side-to-side, which is not desirable. I saw no easy way to fix that without removing the spring. I'd seriously consider doing that and shimming appropriately. Spring-loaded guides are not common, and I'm not sure they're a good feature. Certainly not if they make the guide sloppy.

    Comes to that, I may make that mod myself. Thanks for calling it to my attention.

    Ed Bianchi


    • #3
      Actually spring loaded guides were once common in 1/32nd cars. One type used the spring to center the guide when the car came out of the slot, the other type was intended to keep the guide in the slot if the front wheels lifted on acceleration. If you are racing cars without traction magnets either type can cause problems like erratic handling, especially if the guide id loose in the holder. I prefer to replace the stock guides with a wood track guide that has been cut down somewhat. Those guides have a retaining screw that can be adjusted to minimize slop. If you want the guide to center without using a spring you can do that using the motor leads. When a spring is used to keep the guide in the slot it will also tend to lift the front wheels.


      • #4
        The RevoSlot guide spring may be intended to limit the force pressing the pickups against the track power conductors. The load on the pickups creates drag, which affects acceleration, top speed and handling. (If you want to see how much drag the pickups create, put an old car with age-hardened tires on the track and watch the rear tires spin while the car refuses to move forward.)

        I'm frustrated right now because IHSR does not have rules in place for the RevoSlot cars, so I have no idea if any mods I make to the car will be race legal. Folks who know me -- like Rich -- know that I just cannot keep my meddling paws off a new car. But I don't want to make mods that I'll have to back out later, or worse, mean I won't be able to race the car at all.

        Indeed I am frustrated!

        Ed Bianchi


        • #5
          You can easily adjust how much the spring is able to do on the Revoslot cars by just tightening the screw more at the top. I usually snug mine up and then go about 1 turn out, it calms the car down in the corners. If you don't have a tire truer to shorten the front tires, adding shims under the front bearing holders works well to get the guide all the way back down in the slot.

          The sprung guide really performs best on rough plastic track like ninco etc.

          Also, on these cars it is common for the bearings to begin to spin inside the bearing housings. This causes slop and more noise. Adding a little bit of loctite to the inside of the bearing holder bore, and then pushing the bearing in is a good way of securing them. It really quieted down my car with more miles on it.

          They also tend to come fairly bound up. It is a good idea to just loosen the set screw on the spur gear and sping the axle. It should spin very easily on bearings. If not, loosing the four screws from the bottom and try tightening them slowly in a criss-cross pattern. The front axle as well should be done this way. I also use a very small amount of loctite on the hardware, anything clamping two metal objects its usually a good idea!

          Last edited by wanabgts; 07-03-2019, 08:02 AM.


          • #6
            thanks for the replies. I did tighten down the guide flag, made sure it was flat and making full contact, no slop and it made no difference. I turned the car in a reverse position on the track, while holding a finger against the rear of the chassis, and apply power to check for rear tire and wheel roundness. Both rear tires (and wheels?) wobble horribly. I took apart the rear axle, wheels, tires and gear. The rear axle appears to be straight, not warped or bent. So either the rear tires are horribly out of round, or the wheels are not round, and/or the rear axle uprights are not level?? So as well crafted as this car appears, and that is why I bought it, my older all plastic cars with press fit plastic wheels perform better than this car. No traction, front still comes out of the slot easily.

            Now to the noisy gears: I see how to adjust the position of the motor, I thought the gears were too tight. So I loosened the bottom two set screws, let the motor run until it moved a bit and the gears were not so close. This seemed to not be as noisy, then I tightened the motor mount screws again- still noisy no matter how I adjust the motor position! Does not make sense, and there is a lot of overall chassis vibration when I give power to the motor. Maybe the rear axle and motor shaft are not properly aligned due to the chassis design?

            My conclusion: this car appears to be of high quality, but I still cannot determine where all of the vibration, noise, and rear end wobble are coming from. Still disappointed! I'll keep at it another time and report if I make any progress with this noisy, wobbly, and vibrating car


            • #7
              The classic test for a bent axle is to roll it on a flat piece of glass. If it dunna roll, it inna straight.

              My guess is the axle is your issue.

              Ed Bianchi


              • #8
                I also suspect that the rear axle is your problem. You would have to make sure that the axle was straight before you tried anything else. If I recall correctly RevoSlot cars use a 3mm rear axle, so just changing the wheels and tires would be more difficult since most aftermarket parts are for 3/32nd inch axles. A high quality drill blank would be your best bet as a replacement axle. One of the people in my club has four RevoSlot cars to use as IROC cars when we race at his track. I believe that the only change that he has made to the cars is a switch to Quick Slicks silicone rear tires. I do not recall that the cars were noisy. RevoSlot cars are anglewinders the gear mesh will not be consistent if there is more than a tiny bit of side play in the rear axle. You can adjust the mesh of angle winder gears by moving the spur gear from side to side.


                • #9
                  as I wrote above, I checked the rear axle, and it Is straight. The rear tires are horribly off center, out of round, and the car is getting no traction, and causing excessive vibration. As to the gear mesh- no matter how I adjust it, the gears are noisy and the entire chassis/car has a lot of vibration when I give it power. Only if I loosen both bottom motor adjustment screws will the noise quite a bit. So one possible fix is to buy after market rear tires. will go from there.


                  • #10
                    If the tires and or wheels (especially the rear) are out of true, that will throw the whole car off and will not run well OR...stay in the groove.
                    Everything must run true.
                    Figure out the problems, start fixing.



                    • #11
                      If your car is that bad -- "rear tires are horribly off center, out of round, and the car is getting no traction, and causing excessive vibration" -- you should get the car replaced under warranty. I'd get in contact with your retailer, and/or try to contact RevoSlot directly. There should be a way to get your defective car replaced.

                      RevoSlot justifies their high prices -- three times that of some competitive models -- by providing expensive features like ball bearings instead of brass bushings. If they are shipping defective products, that endangers their whole marketing program. I think they'd want to see your car and figure out what is wrong with it, and how it got past their quality assurance protocols. If I were running their engineering department I'd be all over this issue.

                      In one of the many quality assurance trainings I received during my career I was told that, of all customers who receive defective products, 94% do not complain! That means that if you are shipping 50% defective product, your return rate would be only 3%. Many companies might find that discomforting, but not consider it a crash priority red alert!

                      I'm not entirely sure I believe that statistic. But I can tell you this. Probably 95% of dissatisfied customers DO complain, but not effectively. They complain to their friends, family, the guy sitting next to them at the bar, and everyone they know online. They may even complain to the poor sod on the customer service chat line, but they never get their message up to anyone in the company that can do something about it.

                      That may not be their fault. Some companies are simply deaf to customer complaints. But any company that has any intelligence left in their upper ranks will be hyper-sensitive to any feedback that says something's amiss.

                      There are ways to improve your chances of being heard. One is to send in your complaint as a letter. "Letter", meaning a snail-mail communication written on paper and addressed to the head honcho, in an envelope marked "Personal and Confidential". This requires some homework, because you need to find out who that head honcho is, and get their mailing address.

                      Let me tell you a story...

                      Back in the 1970's I had a major beef with UPS. Yes, the United Parcel Service. I did some research -- pre-internet -- and discovered who was the CEO, the Regional Manager and the District Manager. The UPS annual report was a great resource. I called the company to get the mailing addresses of those officers. Of course I did not get to speak to those people directly, but the underlings who took my calls were polite and helpful. I got the addresses.

                      I wrote my letter to the CEO and copied my Regional Manager and District Manager, making sure that each letter showed everyone who was copied. Each letter was mailed directly to those recipients, marked "Personal and Confidential".

                      The effect was a lightning bolt shot down through the entire UPS chain of command. The CEO of UPS worldwide got back to me on the issue. And that issue got fixed, once and for all! The manager of the local operations took care of it. He knew my name, and made sure I was satisfied.

                      That, I contend, is effective complaining.

                      Now that is probably far more than is called for in this case. But keep it in your back pocket in case you ever have to drag out the big guns. It works.

                      Ed Bianchi


                      • #12

                        If you are running on Carrera track, then it would be a good idea to swap out the stock guide for the deeper one that is in the box.Get rid of the spring while you are doing that, and set the screw so the guide is firm but still turns easily.

                        The Revoslot gears are generally a bit noisier than other makes. What helps a little is to slacken off the body mounting screws about a quarter turn from snug.

                        The chattering and jumping is most likely just out of round tires. The stock tires are actually quite good after trueing. If you have a Hudy truer, take out the regular shaft and use the Revoslot axle to true the tires. Use a very low voltage, no more than 3.5 volts and grind very slowly, then finish off with some 2000 grit sandpaper or a diamond file. Make sure the edges are nicely rounded. Otherwise, try a set of the new Quick Slicks for that car. Grind the front tires as well, and coat them with nail varnish.

                        I hope this helps.



                        • #13
                          the reason I purchased this car is for the reasons stated above: ball bearings, better quality wheels, tires, adjustable non-plastic chassis that tend to be warped. Yet this car performs terribly! I'll just sell it. Like new in the box $65 plus shipping. Note: box lid has a split in one corner, as I bought it.


                          • #14
                            Hi, hope this help
                            I have all Revo models 1/32 and run on Carrera track, I never had problem just changed tires with Revoslot soft 22 shore.


                            • #15

                              We race these cars every week "STOCK" with only blueprinting allowed and they can be made to run very well.
                              As per the video attached above make sure the axles and bearings align. I also use loctite on the rear axle bearings. Plus break in the gear mesh dry then lubricate after break in.Or you could switch to nylon pinion they tend to be quieter running. The front tires should be trued down a little to make sure they are round. Injection molded tires tend to not come out completely round..
                              The rears need to be carefully seated on the rims. I have not seen bent rims on a new RevoSlot car here and I have sold and shipped over 1000 of them. The RevoSlot tends to be noisy as the rattleplate is floating on top of the chassis plate, a film of white lithium grease helps damp the rattle, you can also try a little piece of tape. Also the body acts like an amplifier increasing the sound, this is why the rubber boots are used on the body posts, and they should only be lightly touched down, try not the crush the boots.
                              Also check the motor is not touching the interior, we shim under the rubber boots to create clearance.
                              You should use the deeper guide on Carrera Track, plus you can tune the handling by tightening the guide screw or loosening depending on your driving style

                              The rear tires need to be trued, carefully, too fast and you will tear them up. We will soon have mounted Sponge tires in stock for the RevoSlot cars, this could help as Sponge is easier to true up.

                              If you feel the car is defective I am happy to take it back as long as it was imported by my Company and not a Grey Import. I stand behind our Sales 100%, but do feel most of your problems will be in the rear tires and blueprinting as mentioned here and in the video posted one post above mine.

                              Let me know if I can help further, these are good cars, no more cooking chassis to make them straight, but any car will respond to careful set up.

                              Last edited by Scaleracing; 07-08-2019, 08:19 PM.
                              Alan Smith
                              SCI Owner.