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Scalextric TVR Speed 12... help needed

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  • Scalextric TVR Speed 12... help needed

    So I have 2 of the old Scalextric TVR Cerbera Speed 12's one in Purple and one in Silver, obviously they ate much older and use the old style guide flag not the braid disc variety they are also sidewinders... i'm looking to upgrade them for plastic track and just to make them fun... they have very little magnetic attraction to the rails so it almost feels like No-Mag racing... any help would be appreciated guys.

  • #2
    Here is an image of the cars in question

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    • #3
      I have no idea what a Scalextric TVR Cebara Speed 12 is. But I do have some older Scalextric cars that I have been thinking about fixing up, so I'll mention what I have in mind.

      I plan to replace all the stuff that rolls -- this is, axles wheels and tires, front and rear. I'll probably have to replace the driven gears as well. I'll go with aluminum set-screw wheels and urethane or silicone tires. Gears will be plastic set-screw.

      In addition I'll probably replace the axle bushings with brass, and make sure they are a close fit to the axle diameter, aligned and glued in place.

      These aren't cars I intend to race, so I won't be replacing the motors and pinion gears. I probably won't change the gear ratios.

      I don't run magnet cars, and my tracks have no steel in them, so magnets have no effect. If there are magnets in the cars I may leave them there just as weight. There's a chance I'll add some other weights if the cars seem to need it.

      All of the above will definitely be a labor of love. Simply an effort to restore some models that have fallen on hard times.

      Ed Bianchi

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      • #4
        That pretty much confirms what I want to do although I want to fit newer motors as these are nearly 20 years old... new guid flags, braids, wheels and axles front and back, brass bushings etc etc... so far i've got them to run better by removing the magnets and gluing pennies to the chassis they hand better without magnets too

        Luke

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        • #5
          So -- what? All you're salvaging is the body and the plastic chassis?

          I don't suppose it is possible to fit new rolling chassis under the existing bodies?

          It does seem strange to me that manufacturers of 1/32nd cars produce a different chassis for every new car they produce. Couldn't they standardize on, say, three different chassis with enough adjustability to fit most bodies? Inline, sidewinder and anglewinder perhaps?

          Standardized chassis are very much the situation in HO cars. I admit that many HO bodies are horribly distorted and frequently way out-of-scale in order to fit existing chassis. But that does not need to be the case in 1/32nd, where the motors are much smaller in proportion to the car bodies.

          Some bright person might be able to make a small business out of supplying rolling chassis with enough adjustability to fit many legacy bodies. There could be an easy on-ramp if the chassis were 3D printed. I know that adjustable printed chassis exist on Shapeways. Building a rolling chassis up from there would not be a trivial job, but it could be the start of someone's garage-shop enterprise.

          Ed Bianchi

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          • #6
            For now mainstream chassis are moulded, and form a tight fit with the body. Oftentimes the chassis carry exhausts and other details for the overall car.

            Because the cars are much more accurate than HO cars a uniform chassis, with the wide range if widths and wheelbases that would involve, has not been attempted in the mainstream.

            Even Scalextric, who make both scales, have not ported up their chassis norm from the little cars.

            There have been all kinds of after-market adjustable chassis across the decades though.

            ISRA 1/32nd (and, for that matter 1/24) chassis are like giant HO cars, not specific to the body.
            Last edited by NicoRosberg.; 07-19-2019, 10:25 AM.

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            • #7
              Adjustable chassis go back to the beginning of slot racing. I particularly remember a zinc die-cast chassis made by Dynamic -- very adjustable and very classic. (Also a bit fragile. Mine broke.)

              Deane, I think I acknowledged that adjustable chassis in 1/32nd are not mainstream. Point of fact they don't even seem to exist outside of some 3D printed designs I have seen.

              The fact that some folks have created 3D printed adjustable chassis indicates there is at least some marginal demand for the feature. But mainstream manufactures must figure it is cheaper to make and install one-off chassis for each new model than to build common chassis that can fit multiple bodies. That, or they figure that adding adjustability features into chassis will make them less competitive.

              I am, and always will be, fascinated by design. Especially design in edgy environments where every feature has an impact on performance. There is always a tension between superior design and economies of production. Where the needle falls on that scale hints at a lot of infighting and compromise. Or not. Sometimes designs just occur without much thought, and succeed or fail for random reasons. Mostly fail.

              I'd love to understand why chassis adjustability -- a feature that at first blush would seem appealing -- has been bred out of common practice. Right now I have theories but no data. But that doesn't stop me from wondering.

              Ed Bianchi

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              • #8
                So the chassis themselves are in pretty good condirion and quite flat, the idea is just to get them running ok, more predictable with newer running gear as it still has the original motor, guides, gears, axles, bearings and wheels... I wouldn't mind hacking up the splitter and diffuser and skirts to glue to the body in order to use a 3rd party chassis... and yeah scalextric use chassis designed for the body they are intended for... he's only 7 so they don't need to be competition spec just more reliable and fun

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                • #9
                  If you are running them on plastic track then there is some magnetic attraction from both the magnets in the motor and the traction magnet in the car. Position of the magnet does change the handling.

                  Better handling will easily come from replacing the magnet with a stronger one, or simply magnet stacking. Magnet stacking is very easy and fast so try and see if you like it. Or alternatively lessing the magnetic attraction. Making the magnet higher in the car, putting metal under the magnet, and heating the magnet are all methods that can be used. If the magnet is close to the motor and rear wheels then you will have the best magnetic effect, moving the magnet forward lessens the grip on the rear tires. If you run cars with magnets it really helps to get the magnetic attraction the same in both cars.

                  Magnet driving/racing is both somewhat easier and at time more difficult. I've seen kids drive cars without magnets but they need some positive feedback.

                  The next step is probably tires and wheels. Everyone has their personal preference for tires, rubber, urathane, silicone. I like rubber. Get the tires on the wheels true, usually by sanding them. Perfectly round tires make a huge difference.

                  After that... new wheels, gears, 3d chassis if available, etc.

                  My goto car for kids is a Slot It Groupe C Porsche 956 or 962. The wing is more protected than most 'winged' cars and can be glued back on easily, making them more durable than other slot cars. They are already a 'pro' slot car, aluminum wheels, gearing and so on. They come with a magnet, that can be moved to two different positions, or removed. There are plenty of older produciton Slot It Porsches that you can get your hands on for cheap.

                  hope you have fun
                  low tech

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