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Track Layout Concepts - Comments Needed

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  • Bonez
    started a topic Track Layout Concepts - Comments Needed

    Track Layout Concepts - Comments Needed

    I am starting to develop track concepts for my 1:32 layout. I am probably going to go with routed MDF with mag braid.

    Below is my first concept. I used 8.5x11 paper to help visualize the layout. It will be two lanes with adequate borders. The platform is 8x24. Main straight is about 16-feet long and the large curves are about 44-inch radius.

    A question I have already is should I neck down the straight width to 8-9 inches (3.5-4 inch lane spacing) and only broaden the outside shoulder on the curves? This would give me more area for scenic elements. I want to scratch build pit and bleacher structures placed around the layout.

    Thanks all.

    image2 by bonez 300

    image1 by bonez 300

    image3 by bonez 300


  • Bonez
    replied
    All great comments. Many thanks.

    I will calculate lane distances once I close in on the final configuration. Then look at options - including doing nothing since I am a recreational user. If I get serious with another racer we would rotate lanes anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • NicoRosberg.
    replied
    Cracking call Rich.

    Bottom Line: Build a track for maximum fun, uncompromised, then sort the uneven lanes

    Leave a comment:


  • RichD
    replied
    Another option is to have better grip in what would normally be the slower lane. We have found that you get slightly better grip on satin polyurethane than on the flat latex paint that is often used on wood tracks. You could apply the polyurethane in one corner and see how the lap times go and then do another corner or two if necessary.

    Leave a comment:


  • NicoRosberg.
    replied
    If you want to make the two lanes truly equal think about having different voltages to each lane, and also non-nesting the lanes.

    Those two things will work much better than a crossover or equal lanes lengths, which don't work.

    Leave a comment:


  • HO RacePro
    replied
    It is possible to shield the magnetic field from the motor. Just mount a thin sheet of steel under the motor. The steel shield will provide an alternate path for the magnetic flux under the motor, and greatly reduce any magnetic traction.

    I'm not sure how thick the shield would need to be. I don't think it would have to be much thicker than the metal shell of the motor itself.

    Ed Bianchi

    Leave a comment:


  • Wicker Bill
    replied
    A
    Originally posted by HO RacePro View Post
    But I will also say that it is easy to remove the traction magnets from 1/32nd scale cars.

    Ed Bianchi
    True, but a lot the anglewinder cars out there are designed so the motor magnets attract the rails.
    I’ve recently been playing with a Carrera track. I was surprised how an Avant Slot Subaru stuck to the track. The car had no traction magnets but an anglewinder with strong motor magnets.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bonez
    replied
    I want the mag braid to give me options. Traction magnets are easily removed if I want mag-free.

    This is a photo of my HO pit scene where I used Rustoleum Chalk Paint in charcoal color. I think it will make a great base for simulating asphalt. And I think it will be good for all tire compounds based on what I dug up on internet searches.

    Pit Scene 002 by bonez 300

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  • HO RacePro
    replied
    I agree with Wicker Bill that non-magnet racing is more fun. But I will also say that it is easy to remove the traction magnets from 1/32nd scale cars. You might want to install steel braid so you have the option to run both magnet and non-magnet.

    Myself, I never race with traction magnets. I want to be able to work a corner. Traction magnets make driving binary. You are either quick through a corner or hard into the wall. No chance to pull it back in.

    As for racing surfaces, I have always used a gloss epoxy paint. Silicone tires work extremely well with a glossy surface, and my preference is to run silicones. I can't comment on how urethane, rubber or sponge do on a gloss surface. Dunno.

    I have also settled on painting the racing surface a light gray color. If you look out your window at the street, you will see that the asphalt is not black, it is light gray. Only very fresh asphalt is black. It quickly weathers to a light gray.

    And light gray is very easy on the eyes.

    Ed Bianchi





    Leave a comment:


  • Wicker Bill
    replied
    You’ve come a long way in the project.
    My $0.02 worth - forget all about magnet running. Tuning and getting the cars to run better non-mag is very interesting. Also, you’re more of a driver with the cars. Magnet racing is much easier but normally greater speeds are involved which means much more damage when the magnets let go.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bonez
    replied
    Thanks Ed - I will inquire Dan on what he uses.

    As for surface paints I was thinking of Rustoleum chalk paint. I used this on the pit scene and road scenes on my HO layout. I like the color and texture as a base for simulating asphalt road surfaces. I can use the aerosol for the slot and the roll the liquid on the main surface.

    But what is typically used for surface materials? Are there any other coatings on top of the paint for traction enhancement?

    Leave a comment:


  • HO RacePro
    replied
    Jim Honeycutt of Magnatech SRP sells copper-clad tinned magnetic braid. Copper-cladding greatly increases the conductivity of the braid, and adds corrosion resistance above and beyond the tin plating. I have used Jim's magnetic braid on all my magnet tracks and corrosion has never been a problem.

    The cladding process is different from plating. It is a mechanical process -- not electrical -- and deposits a much thicker layer of copper. But there is still plenty of steel underneath to provide the magnetic downforce.

    Jim also sells tinned copper braid. No magnetic downforce at all, tons of conductivity. Great product. Superb for gravity racing. My favorite.

    Ed Bianchi

    Leave a comment:


  • RichD
    replied
    Slot Car Corner sells tinned magnetic braid that should resist corrosion as well as any regular braid.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bonez
    replied
    So I visited Dan today at Viper (he is in Orem about 60-miles from me). We discussed routing vs. Carrera options and I decided to go with a two-lane routed MDF with mag braid. Lane spacing will be 4-inches with broad outside shoulders for the curves. We are using my concept as shown in my opening post as a baseline that will be tweaked after it gets loaded in the computer.

    i decided to not have an overpass as it just doesn’t look scale to me and trying to equalizing lane lengths is not important. I will most likely be running on my own (thinking I am Mario, Dan, AJ, Niki, etc) as these cars run through the scenery.

    Many thanks for all the great comments and advice.

    i will start a new thread documenting the build. I hope to get started this Fall. I am still on hiatus playing outside before it cools and the lovely white powder starts accumulating.

    I am excited to add this platform to my room. The HO track came out very well and I detailed a lot of the bodies but the larger 1:32 cars are so much more realistic and simply gorgeous. I have collected over 500-cars and I bought doubles and triples so I can race them without banging up what I placed in my display cabinets. Those will never be raced. The triples MAY be sold sometime down the road.

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  • charlesx
    replied
    H Bonez. Not sure what all this talk is about magnets. Use magnabraid if you wish but make sure it is in a dry salt free environment as it will rust. You can still run non-magnet but cannot use motors with high magnetic down force. Agree about the cross-overs (there must be two otherwise you only have one lane) but this was to equalise the lanes. Your preference however seems to be for a cross over. Look forward to your final design. Regards Chas Le Breton

    Leave a comment:

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