No announcement yet.

Balky car on Evolution track

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Balky car on Evolution track

    Maybe somebody can help me figure this out:

    My setup is a Carrera Evolution track with stock Carrera controllers and stock Carrera power supply. Carrera cars work fine.

    New cars, however, aren't working so smoothly. Racing the new cars causes the controllers to get hot. Intermittently, the cars won't start (just sit there with button depressed). Sometimes the cars jerk forward a few inches, stop, then jerk forward again. It happens with all four of the new cars (the Ferrari 312B kit and the twin Chaparrel set), although two of the cars (a Ferrari and a Chaparrel) seem to misbehave more that the other two. Often (but not always) both cars on the track will misbehave. The effect seems to occur more often after a high speed crash.

    Doesn't seem to be any short in the wiring or braids. Magnets and motors are well clear of the track.

    The behavior reminds me of when I miswired my three prong Professor controllers, thus messing up the braking circuit on the Carrera analog track.

    Anyone else experience this? Any suggestions? Have I (an admitted newbie) missed a thread on this subject?


    Gray Mason

  • #2
    Are the car braids adjusted to fit the Carrera track?


    • #3
      You could try switching over to Carrera braid. As suggested above, sometimes its hard to get the Slot-it soft copper braid adjusted to Carrera rails. Carrera uses nickel plated copper braid. Seems to work best on their track, probably why they use it.


      • #4
        Let's give the Carrera braids a try!

        Thanks for the quick reply!

        I must admit I don't understand why changing the braids would make any difference (the problem seems to be an intermittent short circuit rather than bad contact), but I've got some spare Carrera braids, so I'll give it a try.

        By the way, my 45 ohm Professor controllers seem to work with the new cars just fine so far (no hesitation, no hot controllers, no issues after crashes).

        I still wonder if the combination of the MF06 motor, the 58 ohm Carrera controller, and the braking circuit on the Carrera track interact in a peculiar way. It almost seems like the motor shorts out from time to time (or a capacitor in the braking circuit is wreaking havoc).



        • #5
          Braid is braid but. The braid has to align with the track rails. Slot.It cars are certainly not factory set to work OTB on Carrera track.


          • #6
            This isn't Slot.It braid but the same principles apply. After massaging the braid to the final picture then sort of bend the braid to align with the track rails.


            • #7
              Good to know.

              BTW, those other controllers are Parma controllers (not Professor) . . .


              • #8
                Also make sure that none of the braid is in contact with the other braid. If even 1 or 2 little wires from one braid touch the other braid you'll have a short. Sometimes the braids get frayed where the motor wires enter the guide and they can touch.


                • #9
                  Have you checked where the motor leads enter the ferrules on the guide?
                  I've had some Slot Its that didn't make good contact in that area.


                  • #10
                    The hot Carrera controllers tell the tale, the problem is not the car's braids. motors use more power than Carrera motors do, I have measured up to 2 amps. Probably there is a breaker built into your power supply that keeps tripping.


                    • #11
                      If your controllers are hot you are pulling too much juice. One of the truths about slot racing (if you are going to be at least a semi-serious about it) is: you are going to have to replace the power supply and the controllers. Sorry, but it is true. There is a huge range of options for power supply and controllers. You will find lots of good information here with a little searching. But, as a range, expect to spend at least $125.00 for a variable power supply and anywhere from $50.00 - $200.00 apiece for controllers. You can do it in increments, start with the power supply. It really only costs about the same as a few good cars, but your reward will be immense, immediate, and on-going, Once you make the investment, every car you put on the track will be easier to drive and perform better, every time you put it on the track.


                      • #12
                        From Racer1h in Shorewood, Mn. Did the new power supply solve the problem?