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Racing Carrera 143 without magnets ?

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  • Racing Carrera 143 without magnets ?

    Can 143 Carrera cars be raced without magnetic down force. I am a gravity only driver and am thinking about purchasing a Carrera 143 set . Of course I will be removing the loop and adding several sections as well !
    Thanks in advanced : Al

  • #2
    They can, just not very well without a bit of tune-up. There are a lot of 1/43 no-mag racers on SCI that can help out with that, though.


    • #3
      Like MrFlippant said they sure can run without magnets

      1- Get a good variable power supply so that you can reduce the voltage (a lot on some cars)
      You can also use diodes in series to reduce voltage at the controllers or power supply output

      2- Don't use any of the Carrera Go starting track or at least remove all the caps resistances from the starting track & re-wire the power supply from there
      If you can , don't use the Carrera Go power supply they are not good as soon as you ask for more current like for Artin cars the power supply will just cut off a few seconds after just a few laps

      3- Get higher ohms controllers like 60-70 ohms which would give you a slightly slower acceleration but a better control through the curves

      4- Add weights inside the chassis as much as the car needed

      5- Have the track & tires really clean without any dust this make a really big difference , you can use masking tape to remove dust from the cars tires

      6- If you want to mod the cars for a better handling you could always add a guide flag to replace the guide pin (lots of works on some cars)
      if you keep the guide pins , spread the rear braids outward

      7- Have fun!

      Last edited by MikeySlotCars; 07-02-2017, 01:51 PM.


      • #4
        Mikey, are there tire replacement or preparation options other than cleaning?


        • #5
          De-magnetizing 143 Carrera cars !

          Thanks gentlemen for all your input ! I was selling my unused Scalextric Platinum set and considering 143 digital however it doesn't seem feasible . The smaller scale would have given me more track in my limited area but 143 digital won,t work on a smaller voltage ! ( I don,t think )

          Sincerely: Al


          • #6
            I wasn't sure if you were referring to digital or not, but since the question would apply to analog as well, I knew you'd get better replies if I moved the thread.

            Is your SSD set unused because of space limitations? What kind of space do you have? Have you already sought assistance with a 1/32 layout for your space?

            With D143, I don't know if there are power levels like for D132 and D124. Hopefully someone with experience in D143 can chime in on that.


            • #7
              Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
              Mikey, are there tire replacement or preparation options other than cleaning?
              Yes! you can have after market tires , rubber , silicon , ect.. just like any other scale but not sure where to get it as I didn't bought any tires yet..
              But a few guys here would know like Peter (pfuetze) , cjent & a few other members..

              Originally posted by Pal-Al View Post
              Thanks gentlemen for all your input ! I was selling my unused Scalextric Platinum set and considering 143 digital however it doesn't seem feasible . The smaller scale would have given me more track in my limited area but 143 digital won,t work on a smaller voltage ! ( I don,t think )

              Sincerely: Al
              Well you could probably keep your 1/32 track & race 1/43 cars on it but , if you are limited on space then 1/43 track makes lots of sense
              You can run the digital black box of Carrera 1/32-24 on your 1/43 track , you can even chip the 1/43 cars with a 1/32 Carrera chip , Carrera make one that is small enough to fit in 1/43 cars (A chip from 1/32 F1 car , I think?)

              I couldn't help you much on Digital side as I am on AC2 system but the best guy to ask or send a pm/email about this would be pl9171 as he done just that

              Last edited by MikeySlotCars; 07-02-2017, 08:30 PM.


              • #8
                Originally posted by MikeySlotCars View Post
                6- If you want to mod the cars for a better handling you could always add a guide flag to replace the guide pin (lots of works on some cars
                And if you want to add a guide flag, look into installing a Slide Guide. Some 1/43rd racers have found it is an excellent upgrade to their cars...

                ...especially replacing the guide pins on Carrera GO! Installed properly you'll eliminate the binding that happens when a GO! car starts to slide.

                See the forum thread Scale Racing > 1/43 Scale Slot Cars > HO RacePro Slide Guide Test Install - 1:43 Carrera GO! (You can find this thread with the forum search tool. Use the search 'Slide Guide Test Install'.)

                The kit mentioned in this article has not made it to production and sale... yet. It's that chicken-and-egg thing. I need to stir up more interest in the kit. If you'd like to try one out, get back to me. I have a number of prototypes on hand.

                Ed Bianchi
                Last edited by HO RacePro; 07-03-2017, 02:13 AM.


                • #9
                  Have a look there :

                  hxxps:// ( replace the xx by tt )

                  There you have an almost huge selection of scratchbuild parts for 43rd scale.

                  On Page 2 youīll find guides similar to the slide guide but better because made from sturdier material and more designed for 43rd scale ( the slide guides are basically for HO )

                  On page 4 youīll find similar guides, but made for braid, what logically is better than a stranded wire as a pickup.



                  • #10
                    Kosmo -- I beg to differ!

                    Yes, Slide Guides were originally made for HO, but they are quite strong enough for 1/43rd scale cars, or 1/32nd comes to that. A Slide Guide is made from nylon engineering thermoplastic -- one of the strongest, toughest plastics available.

                    And since Slide Guides are injection molded, not printed, their mechanical properties are not weakened by a layered construction, like printed guides are.

                    Also, a Slide Guide can fit under a car where other guides can't. The broad, flat surface that backs up the Pickup Wire, with more than adequate strength, is only 0.025 inches thick (0.64mm). You need little more than a millimeter clearance under the car to fit a Slide Guide!

                    And braid is NOT better for 1/43rd scale cars. It is too stiff, and will hold the front of the car up if there is no magnetic downforce, or not enough weight. Pickup Wire is much more flexible, and with 40 independent strands of wire assures excellent contact with minimal contact force.

                    Low contact force is important! Aside from letting the car sit level without added weight or magnetic downforce, it reduces the drag at the front of the car. Front end drag makes the car less stable and more likely to spin out. Low front end drag is one reason why my Slide Guide equipped 'Rattler' cars are champions in gravity class racing.

                    Nor is all of the above theoretical. I have converted a number of SCX and Carrera GO! cars, run them a lot, and never had a failure. The Pickup Wires last a very long time, because excellent contact means minimal arc erosion.

                    Other racers have fit Slide Guides to their cars, and agree that they are an excellent upgrade. You'll find some of their postings on this site.

                    While I have nothing against folks creating their own guide shoes for their cars, they still have something to learn from Slide Guides. Primarily, that they can buy a proven, off-the-shelf solution with a record of 20+ years of racing.

                    Ed Bianchi
                    Last edited by HO RacePro; 07-03-2017, 08:22 AM.


                    • #11
                      Please show me the cars that you have equipped with Peterīs printed guides.

                      Braid is too stiff for 43rd scale ? Funny. I have been using braid exclusively for a decade now, not even one model is being lifted from the track.

                      Obviously you have the wrong braid.

                      Neither "20 years" or more, nor the number of people who use it means causally that anything MUST be better by all means . You forget to tell WHY they use(d) slide guides : Because there had not been any acceptable and equivalent alternative on the market. But now there is.
                      It seems you do not know Peter, nor his knowledges, experiences and abilities in designing as well as in building and racing.
                      No need to diminish othersī achievements simply because one doesnīt know anything about them.

                      I have been using BOTH, slide guides as well as Peters, and prefer Peterīs.
                      And to coquet a bit with "years", too, I have been slotRACING for 47 years now, from home via club up to a handful of World Championships ( real ones, not self proclaimed ones) and I am sure I am able to estimate at least for myself what is better for me or not.
                      And as to "learn" - try to prove who might learn from whom.

                      First thing you ought to learn is to be a bit more respectful to persons and things you do not know anything about at all.

                      As I said - please send me some photos of the cars you equipped with Peterīs guides. ASAP, not only in six weeks.
                      And - try some more brands of braid, and be assured there is some that is more than usable for 43rd scale as well as for HO. Simply a matter of patience , time and trial / error to find it.

                      No more words from my side.

                      Kind regards,



                      • #12

                        Oh gosh, did I insult you? My bad.

                        But before you accuse someone of not knowing anything they're talking about, it might help to know who you are accusing.

                        But rather than trot out all my credentials, let's just say there are folks all over the world who might disagree with you. And by all over the world I mean as far as Australia and New Zealand.

                        I learned a long time ago that if you publish, you'll always get under somebody's skin. Back when I was writing for Model Car and Track and Car Model, I got feedback. Most was laudatory, some was critical. All was interesting.

                        But I don't see anything in my posts here that I need to revise or retract. Sorry if that doesn't satisfy you.

                        Ed Bianchi


                        • #13
                          Good morning,

                          why should I accuse you ? I know what I wrote and I meant what I wrote.

                          Sad, that "people from all over the world" are needed to enforce an argument.

                          Not me. I have my own very long experiences and my own approach to do my hobby.
                          And as to "who is who" - I do not need the internet to get my reputation. That would be too pitiful.
                          Those who need to know who I am, know it.

                          I think it is said enough now.

                          Kind regards,


                          I forgot - it goes without saying that I appreciate and respect your hobby engagement and work.
                          Last edited by Kosmo; 07-04-2017, 01:23 AM.


                          • #14
                            SlideGuides work great under 1/43rd cars. But they have their limits, as printed guides have their limit.
                            i used both and i designed the printed guides in the link from Roland. The main reason for designing those guides are racing 1/43rd cars on a wood track (and for sure on plastic track).
                            Under heavy racing you will want every millimeter of guide blade that reaches into the slot deep enough. This is the weakest point of SlideGuides. As they are designed for H0 cars, they will fit in every 1/43rd car - the best thing! And they are for sure stronger than the printed guides.
                            But for me, on a wood track racing without magnets, i was not able to wear down a printed guide. So - for me - each guide has itīs good point.
                            Plus i designed some so called racing guides with a slimmer blade and reduced contact surface for reduced friction in the slot - was not able to wear down one of those as well.
                            It will be different on plastic track as the bumps in the track will eat some material - possibly.

                            As for braids against wires - on plastic track, i would prefer braid, as it doesnīt wear as fast a wires.
                            Under a car with a flat nose - a braid guide is not possible, as it needs build height. So, only a SlideGuide is possible.

                            Back to the original topic!

                            Carrera D143 can be used without magnets, there are many guys in the german go!forum that are racing without magnets.
                            But i do not know what or if they changed something in the digital system itself or just add chips to their scratchbuild cars.

                            To make a Carrera car run without magnets, there are some things you will have do to get it running quick and smooth:
                            - untighten the body screws. turn them back a quarter turn, so the body can move just a little.
                            - add a rotating guide (either one of Edīs SlideGuides or use one of my printed guides), you can even use a 1/32nd guide if you can find the room for it.
                            - reduce excessive play in the axles (shorten front axles to get ess side-to-side play).
                            to reduce the radial play, add a small drop of superglue in the bearing and turn the axle by hand until the glue settles. repeat until there is nearly no play left. the less play, the smoother they run.
                            be carefull only to use very very small amount of glue at one time.
                            when finished, oil with a small drop of oil
                            - glue the tires to the rims (using a tooth pic or similar to add very small drops of super glue between rim and tire
                            - sand the tires
                            - seal front tires with black paint or roll them through a small puddle of super glue to cover the surface - you do not want grip on the front tires!
                            - change the rear tires to PU-tires (polyurethan). i get my tires from CarGo in germany - . there are also tires from Ortmann available - also great.
                            sadly there is no wide selection available, but the tires from CarGo are great.

                            and for a last thing, you can sand the chassis where the chassis touches the body. the reduces the sound a little

                            many things to do (and enjoy) to make a smooth running 1/43rd car.

                            (i would post pics now, but photobucket doesnīt allow 3rd party hosting for forums anymore and i need to switch to different host).
                            pictures are still there, but donīt show up here. sorry for this.



                            • #15
                              I am late to this thread, but I had your same concerns with 143 scale, and how physics would play out on such small cars. The answer was that 143 behaves exactly like 132

                              My Kleskun Hills layout is a hybrid track using Carrera GO! with inside and outside boarders and the bigger 132 track for the front straight. I use 132 digital components in the cars, and have all the bells and whistles like the bigger scale. I can also run 132 cars on it, and because I enjoy proxy racing this fact was important to me for building and tuning 132 scale cars. This track and its versatility has presented me with countless hours of enjoyment.

                              143 does have its challenges, and it really is a builders scale, as improvisation is the key. 3D printing and Shapeways are making things easier for us every day though, and you can get everything you need to build good magless cars.

                              The layout is 12'X4' built with 1x3 milled wood frame and a rigid styrofoam deck. It breaks apart into an 8' and 4 ' section and is very light, so it is easy to move

                              I also like some scenery, and this track plan has a big infield that is used as to display cars I have built