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Modifed Carrera for Brakes.

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  • Modifed Carrera for Brakes.

    It became evident to me that running 1/43 Nomag to get the fastest lap times was going to involve using brakes again. So this went on my to do list.

    I was having issues with my Scalextric ARC timing system, and interference from the motors of my slot cars. After an evening of messing around with trying to find the right mix of capacitor and resistors in series on the motor to eliminate this interference unsuccessfully, I gave up. It dawned on me that even if I did find the magic mix, did i really want to add this to every car. Also what about proxy racing. This little wrinkle was really going to mess up the idea of hosting an event. I had to do something different.

    What about a separate power supply? Would isolating the power between the track and the power running the ARC system cure this problem? The answer was yes. So since I had to add a secondary power supply, the addition of adding brakes become part of the solution.

    I had a Carrera power track that utilizes a separate power supply for each lane. Perfect,

    So I took it apart and had a look at what was inside. Found the mystery to the Turbo button and the 3 wires running into each Carrera controller.

    Ok this looked interesting. Seemed like I had everything I needed right there to add a simple brake circuit to my standard "GO" equipment. They had the third wire going into the controller already. All I needed to do was turn it from a turbo power button to a brake button

    So first thing I did was remove the resistors on the board and replaced them with a solid gauge wire. This now allows the throttle to deliver full power to the track and gets rid of the silly turbo button.

    This then frees up the 3rd wire circuit for the brake addition. I scribed through the circuit board to break the connection of the middle pin and isolate it from the circuit. Wiring a heavy gauge wire between it and the positive input power + from the transformer I now had the shorting circuit I needed to use braking.

    The diagrams hopefully help explain this. The result of these mods is that the Carrera Turbo controllers are now a controller with brakes. Well I tried this out, and it works, but it didn't take me long to realize that trying to use an independent brake button on a small 5 second/lap home layout was darn near impossible. So I modified the Carrera controllers, and repositioned the internal switch. It was turned 90 degrees and remounted so that when the plunger is in its full up stroke the switch is energized and the brakes are applied.

    Running no mag cars is a problem with these controllers though. They are designed to power cars that have a huge magnetic force to overcome. For no mag cars they are more On -off switches. So I added a 10 Ohm 5 watt resistor to the lead out( Blue in diagram) they become much better.

    However I had some old Scalextric 1/32 scale trigger type controllers. They had a 60 Ohm rheostat resistor in them and were a much better controller for the 1/43 scale nomag cars I was building. They gave me full control from idling along to full out power over the range of the trigger. I harvested the "GO" wiring and plugs from some other "GO" controllers( never get rid of anything hobby related) and used them on these Scalextric throttles.

    I then labeled the plug input bar with the word" BRAKES" to indicate that this was modified electronics. The lower power requirement and amperage drawn from the small motors I am using are creating zero problem for this wiring set up. Also this simple brake arrangement seems to work on my layout, running stock cars perfectly. Even if I added trimming resistors etc, I doubt I would get any better braking then what this simple set up is giving me. I also ran a 1/32 Scalextric GT40 around the track and the addition of the brakes was perfect on the Scalextric factory cars. I was able to reach full throttle on the straight and still get around the corner at the end of the straight. Without the brakes this was impossible

    Not sure if this has been covered before. If it has then I guess I will be supplementing the idea with my method.


    Last edited by YHR; 01-28-2016, 11:36 AM.

  • #2
    Good work but I prefer rewire the track & not use the circuit board or the Go controllers

    I run without brakes without any problem not much of a choice since my track is AC2
    but even using DC I found out that the best way to run to go cars without magnets is to have a variable power supply or variable resistance on the controllers & use 70 ohms controllers
    some cars will work ok with 60 ohms but most of them works better with 70 ohms



    • #3
      I use the plug socket portion only, and it is mounted on the side of the layout. I like the "factory look" of the Carrera plugs and have even installed them on my Parma controller

      I was using variable resistance as well, but it uses PWM for modulating, and I find it heats up the smaller motors more so I removed it. I can slide it back in easy enough as my track power feeds are through connectors so I can easily change out track supply power. This was really handy when I decided to change the power supply. No rewiring to the track , just plug and play.

      Using the 60 ohm 1/32 Scalextrics controllers with this brake circuit seem perfect for my set up.

      Adding the 10 ohm resistor into the standard go controllers helps immensely make them usable for nomag racing. However I prefer the trigger over the plungers style as all the heat generated is above your hand and not in it, so don't really use the "GO" controllers either. They become parts supply
      Last edited by YHR; 01-28-2016, 12:16 PM.


      • #4
        Brakes ??? like on my 1/1 cars I don't use no stinking breaks


        • #5
          007 Is that before or after the next "left turn"? lol


          • #6
            Originally posted by 007 View Post
            Brakes ??? like on my 1/1 cars I don't use no stinking breaks

            Brakes. Sure don't need them for magnet racers, but for nomag they sure help going into the corners waaaay later then without them. I really notice it on the 1/32 scale cars I sometimes run.

            For the past year I have been running without them, and there is more rhythm with no brakes for sure as you coast through corners. You get a smoothness going that result in some satisfying times.

            However I find braking will yield quicker laptimes, but it is a little more hectic getting them.


            • #7
              I find that my Parma Economy 45ohm controllers, wired for brakes, give great control without any extra electronics. They are out of favour for club racing these days, but still great for home use.

              Regards, Lloyd.


              • #8
                I have the old faithful Parma 45 Ohm controllers as well. Not quite as fine adjustment as on the Scalextric 60 ohm though. Now that I have the Scalextric wired for brakes they are very nice. I can drive a car around the track at a low speed or high speed.. Not quite as comfortable as the Parma though. You can buy them for $5 now as well. The trigger is a little uncomfortable though, so I am looking around to see what I might be able to come up with.

                These look nice as well. Hopefully this is allowed?



                • #9
                  This is the route that I took for the GS's home set.



                  • #10
                    nice article, Dan!

                    I like my Parma Eco 90 ohm controllers for go!motors when running no magnet and 15V. nice speed on the front straight and good controll in the turns
                    of course wired for brakes


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Lloyd.L View Post
                      I find that my Parma Economy 45ohm controllers, wired for brakes, give great control without any extra electronics. They are out of favour for club racing these days, but still great for home use.

                      Regards, Lloyd.
                      Parma controllers - no matter if Turbo with brake and full speed contacts or Economy with brake and full speed rings on the resistor - are the optimim. Reliable and uncomplicated, and if one wants to alter anything - no problem.