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SSD In-Car Microprocessor Compatibility Chart

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  • #16
    Re: SlotIt Porsches..Gonna be Tricky!!

    I have Fly-Cars, Scalextric-Cars, Ninco-Cars and a Carrera.

    I have done the Mercedes Ninco as a first try, I am getting my new three Saloon-chips tomorrow but one thing is for sure:

    The winner so far is......NINCO
    It are the easiest Cars to put a chip in...lots of room !!!!

    Mister Slipstream


    • #17
      Re: SlotIt Porsches..Gonna be Tricky!!

      I'm nearly done w/my 962...glad to hear I don't need the ferrite and cap, though, as they were getting tricky.

      I ultimately went to the dremel & created room up can barely see how much I cut away when looking in the cockpit, so I think I'll be OK.

      I'll post pics as soon as the patient proves he's recovered!!

      BTW, I think the GB/Fly trucks are gonna be the easiest to chip. Then we'll see what people do w/the Scaley cycles & Ninco carts!!



      • #18
        Re: SlotIt Porsches..Gonna be Tricky!!

        seems like a lot of trouble, but to each his own...
        scratch builders, scenic decorators, folks who like to race rtr. edit....ooops forgot one....chippers.


        • #19
          Re: SlotIt Porsches..Gonna be Tricky!!

          I was wondering...isn't it possible to use a F1-chip in cars which has not a lot of room ??
          The Panoz from FLY for instance

          Or are they only suitable for F1-Cars ??
          (I saw those chips were not available yet)!!!!
          Has anyone out there has such a Chip ??

          And why not only one Chip on the market, the smallest one :lol



          • #20
            Re: SlotIt Porsches..Gonna be Tricky!!

            McLaren is ready...Ninco "Harrods" McLaren (yellow).
            It has less room then the Mercedes, but it fits !!!!

            What a Race, McLaren against Mercedes DTM :rollin

            Who is next ??

            Last edited by Scaleracing; 04-09-2010, 07:29 AM.


            • #21
              chipping a Carrera

              I successfully chipped the yellow Carrrera Aston Martin DB4 (similar to the silver James Bond car) using the salon chip. I cut away a portion of the magnet slide (the plastic that is used to slide the magnet up to reduce down force) to place the LED. It was rather easy. The only problem I encountered was the guide, the supplied guides did not match the metal tabs (they seem made for the new Scaly guides not the guides supplied with the salon chip).


              • #22
                Re: chipping a Carrera

                I just finnished chipping the Carrera Jaguar D Type in one hour using the scalelectric salon chip. Like the Carrera DB5 there was plenty of room. I put the LED at the very top of the magnet slide, cutting away of the slide enough so I could get th LED low enough. Soldered the pressings directly to the guide braids. Scalelectric really needs to supply the correct keel to match the pressings.


                • #23
                  Re: chipping a Carrera

                  This seems like a good moment. Slotcar Convert has pretty much done to his Carrera cars what I did to mine:-

                  Moped Rider Chipping A Carrera

                  I've now got a few chips to fit and will probably keep it simple by fitting a few NASCARS out.



                  • #24
                    Re: chipping a Carrera

                    Thanks for sharing

                    I have done three conversions now...but the first one gives a special feeling, no doubt about that :rollin

                    About the LED, I made the hole very my case I have to give the LED a little pressure, to put it in place (its stucked)...this way I can even change the position a little afterwards.

                    Or is this a bad way to do it ????
                    Whats that blu-tack ??...same you use for windows, something like that...I am dutch you know



                    • #25
                      Re: chipping a Carrera

                      raftmax - yes you can ditch the capacitor too.

                      mister slipsteam - I bought some tiny tiny rubber grommets that have some function in electronics or plumbing or something. They are a little too deep/high so I slice them in half. I glue one of these half-height grommets over the LED hole and then stick the LED into it. It lets the LED protude the right amount and holds it securely without any need to glue the LED.

                      Blu-tack is "a non-reactive, resistive damping mastic which behaves like a tacky, flexible, semi-liquid when being handled but like a solid at audio frequencies. It comes in thin flexible sheets that can be cut up or pulled apart as needed. It provides excellent mechanical energy transmission properties at audio frequencies even though it is a semi solid." :b


                      • #26
                        Re: chipping a Carrera

               thats blu-tack

                        Now I remember, you can hang Posters with this on the Wall too !!

                        Thanks for the info



                        • #27
                          Cars I've chipped...

                          2x Scalextric GT40 - Saloon Chips. This was a tight fit, ended up cutting the bottom part of the interior. These cars handle awesome, they stick to the track like glue and they run good too.

                          1x Scalextric Vanwall WW4- F1 Chip. Only recommended for the masochist. Very tough... very little room to work with. I had to remove a couple of the trim pieces to make it fit. The handling is terrible. I have given up (for now) on the Maserati 250F.

                          1x Carrera Evolution GT350 Mustang - F1 Chip. Works great, very fast car after upgrade. Fairly small de-slotting problem. Otherwise it was a piece of cake.

                          2x Scalextric Nissan 350Z Drift Cars - Saloon Chip. Upgrade went well, all mounting places are there to install the Saloon chip. I cut out the existing drift car circuit board and wired the chip straight from the pickups to the engine.. works great, full drift goodness. Issue with lane changing when using digital lane change curve from reverse direction.

                          1x Scalextric Starsky and Hutch Torino - F1 Chip. Easy upgrade, works fine. This car is kind of a boat so the handling isn't remarkable but it is fun.

                          Hope this helps!


                          • #28
                            Revell Porsche 550 Spyder Digital Conversion

                            Here is a short report about how I converted my Revell 550 Spyder to Scalextric Digital.
                            I've always wanted to convert my Revell / Mongram cars, but the motors are located directly behind the guides. Scalextric instructions say to mount the LED as close to the rear of the guide as possible. The LED could be mounted behind the motor, but careful routing to avoid the driveshaft is required.
                            The only restiction to mounting the LED seems to be the the LED must cross the photo-diode sensor before the guide crosses the start/finish line sensor. This is a distance of approximately 3 1/4 inches, so mounting the LED behind the motor is feasible. An alternative is to mount the LED in front of the guide (despite the instructions). This still meets the requirement that the LED crosses the sensor before the guide flag crosses the start / finish. I decided to try this to see if it would work.
                            A Scalextric F1 style chip is used because it is smaller and the LED lead is longer and not connected to a small LED PCB.
                            The LED is mounted in a 3/16 styrene plastic tube in front of the guide. This is dremmeled to fit the chassis / body and held with JB weld (on the chassis only) . The LED is held in the tube by "Shoe Goo".

                            I use the tube to hold the LED at the approximate distane from the track that is used on the Boxter/TT/etc. It may not be required, but I didn't feel like experimenting more than necessary.

                            When painted matt black it is pretty discrete.
                            The chip is located in the chassis box section on left side of the body. Some material was removed, but the chip is still "pinched" between the body and the chassis.
                            The guide was shimmed down slightly to reliably trip the start/finish sensor.
                            I've tested this configuration by following another car through lane changers, across the start/finish, etc and I dont have any problems.
                            I'm curious to know if any else has tried putting the LED first and had trouble in race conditions.


                            • #29
                              Seeing that I started this "how to chip" thread, I thought I'd let you know what I did (even though it's about 6 mos. after the fact)!! Six cars in all, here's the scoop:

                              Unfortunatley, the first one, Slot it 962 was the hardest...not for lack of experience as much as the car being tricky. This was when they only had saloon chips, so I ended up splicing extensions onto the LED leads & putting the chip in the LH side 'pod'..behind the front wheel well. I used hot glue to fasten the chip...worked fine. I dremeled a little bit of the cockpit..nothing you can see looking in. And what REALLY got tricky was when I put new motor leads directly onto the chip! You have to de-solder them first (heat up the joint & pull it out, then I cleaned up the excess solder from the tiny brass mounting holes on the board (heat it up & use a wire soldering brush) and then just stuck in new wires & re-soldered them in.

                              the SlotIt Audi was next, and it was a lot easier as the nose had a lot more room (it's kinda 'domed'). No mods needed..I just put the LED in & tacked the BACK of the chip to the lower chassis w/hot glue. The front is loose & the chip is angled up so the front kinda hovers above the LED.

                              Next were my 2 GT40s. I cannot figure how/why Scaley suggests the F1 chips for them, I used saloon ones. This is a TIGHT car, I ended up putting the chip directly ON the LED!! I first covered the tiny LED board w/hot glue to create a barrier so there'd be no chance of any of the chip touching anything metal on the LED. I actually dremeled off a lot of excess CIRCUIT BOARD on the main chip and the LED can tell by looking at it what's critical & what's not (and of course, there really is NO need for a board on the can remove it altogether & resolder it directly to the leads if you really want)

                              I finally got 2 F1 chips at this point, and worked one into the HSRR McClaren. At first I was really stumped...there's NO room in that thing!! Then I lifted up the silver cockpit 'pod' & saw that the chip fits PERFECTLY under either side panel. You have to dremel away the male & female mounting pegs, but that doesn't affect how it lays at all, and I even dremel sanded the underside of the cockpit panel to thin the whole thing & free up some room. The long LED wires were fine, and I soldered the motor wires to the copper strip "hard wires' in the chassis rather than the motor itself.

                              Lastly was the Proteus Heuleiz Pregunta. Of couse, that shoulda been the first one, as it was a breeze (but I guess that's only true w/the F1 chip, which wasn't available when I did the first ones). It's fully 'flat/hard' wired, and the motor pod's copper 'wires' were easily bent up to create a gap in the circuit. The chip went vertically in the rear against the motor pod, and the lead wires & motor wires were attached at the rear 'gap' I made..the only wires that work their way up front were the LED ones.

                              That's it!! Obviously, it got easier w/experience, and I really suggest you have a good soldering iron!! I have a Hakko 936 and had a perfect tip..just a point!! I can't imagine how I/anyone else could do this with a single-temp iron with a spade tip, ESPECIALLY if you end up needing to work on the chip itself, as you have to be very precise & not let the solder touch anything else!!

                              Last edited by Deandome; 12-01-2005, 11:03 AM.


                              • #30
                                As I have just completed my first 2 conversions, I thought it might help others to share my efforts.
                                Straight in at the deep end for me apparently, as these are meant to be one of the tricky ones, but not as bad as I expected as you will see ....
                                The F1 style chips are what I used as they were recommended for these cars.

                                First, the Cars ready to convert:

                                The chip beside the car so you can compare the scale:

                                Open the first up and look to see what goes were and swap the blue guide for one of the black ones supplied in the chip kit.
                                Its tight for the sensor, the ideal place is between the motor and front axle:

                                The wheels didn't want to come off, and I didn't want to break them in the attempt, so I decided to drill with them in place and suffer some scoring on the axle:

                                The sensor has some double sided sticky tape wrapped around it to create a shoulder, and then its put into position, bending the wires previously, to go either side of the motor shaft.
                                Once in place and I am happy its in the correct position, a drop of superglue is applied to the front inside to secure it to the chassis,as the superglue is fixing around the tape, it shouldn't be too much of a problem to remove the sensor if need be.

                                Finally, find a place for the chip and solder the wires in place, in this case it fitted nicely down the side of the motor and nothing needed trimming or removing
                                Then a quick test to see if it all works !

                                After this pic was taken, I secured the chip with blu-tack and then taped over with insulating tape, which I also used to keep the wires in place once I had cleared them from the motor and front axle.

                                Everything works as it should so far, but the one thing I can't test yet is the lane change triggering, as I don't have any of those track pieces yet

                                It took me 1hour 45 mins for the first chip from start to finish, and 35 minutes for the second.

                                Another advantage I have found with digital is the lights ... normal Scaley lights vary in brightness depending on how much throttle is being applied, with digital, as the power is there all the time, the lights are full brightness all the time the car is in the slot
                                Last edited by Savage; 12-20-2005, 10:18 AM.