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  • Originally posted by dw5555 View Post
    I've been using mine for years without issues. No electronic failures. Just out of curiosity aren't you running the same voltage as before so track voltage should be the same?

    Dave
    When running analog with chipped lanes the voltage to the rails varies. This means the LC electronics are exposed to voltages between 0 and 14 depending on the throttle position. Diodes protect the electronics from reverse voltage, and low voltage should not really be an issue for these things( or so I thought)

    I may just have got a bum pitlane LC, but because of my DIY nature I almost immediately voided any warranty. As you can't buy replacement electrical components, and the pit lane set is one of the more costly bits, I am not going to take the chance again, and will just wire this directly to the CU and cut the voltage supply from the rails.

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    • Hi guys i have a little question please.
      With this method :



      Any risk for cross lane or LC or pit stop ? (anolog for me is carrera go)
      How i can isolate PIT STOP ? Just put a toggle swith with 2 pin between track and electronic ?


      Thanks for answer.
      Last edited by vgta; 11-22-2016, 05:47 PM.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by YHR View Post
        When running analog with chipped lanes the voltage to the rails varies. This means the LC electronics are exposed to voltages between 0 and 14 depending on the throttle position. Diodes protect the electronics from reverse voltage, and low voltage should not really be an issue for these things( or so I thought)

        I may just have got a bum pitlane LC, but because of my DIY nature I almost immediately voided any warranty. As you can't buy replacement electrical components, and the pit lane set is one of the more costly bits, I am not going to take the chance again, and will just wire this directly to the CU and cut the voltage supply from the rails.
        After a few months of using my Scalextric stuff, im going back to Carrera over my festive break. With so many new additions and analogue cars i`d like to run, i`m going to attempt this while i`m off.

        Is this safe to do? Have you managed to replace the pit lane and not have any issues so far? I want to avoid blowing pit lanes etc.

        I`m guessing with so many having done this now, it must be ok. But i`d rather check so i dont end up buying two chips as well as some lane changer/pit lanes

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        • I still don't understand why there would be an electronics issue. You are still running power through the CU and the power runs through the chipped lanes. I run the same voltage as digital and still adjust the speed with the CU, not the power supply.
          I don't run analog as much as I used to but after almost 4 years everything still works without any problems.

          Dave

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          • hi,
            So does i can play digital while the 1/43 analog box is plugged to the track ?
            and does i will have problem with the Driver Display, or other Carrera digital hardware/accessories, with an analog DC power supply ?
            Thanks.

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            • Vgta beyond the original build at the start of this tread I can't help you with any further mods that have been posted that may make things operate differently. With the original build none of the digital accessories work. That's all I have.

              Dave

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              • anti-collision

                So this week during my Chrimbo shut down i decided to build the dual use box.

                Not too bad too do. I spent several hours planning it and looking over drawings until i was confident.
                Chipping the lanes has been great... except for one issue.

                I have been trying to chase a link between the lanes. Every time i code a car with just the CU, it works fine. The minute i connect it to the rest of the track, the lanes are joined.

                As per the advice, i went through and double checked all of the my lane changers were isolated across the lane junctions, and even went through and disconnected wiring under the pit lanes. This sorted it.

                Then on a test lap, an analogue car stopped. Problem= a connecting tab removed for the Anti-Collision chip to work on the lane changer sensor track. Power back, but now the lanes are linked again.

                Then the penny dropped. Due to the way the AC chips work by taking a feed from the opposing lane, am i somehow getting it back feeding through the AC chip into the other lane??

                Has anyone else had this issue that has done dual system with the AC chips installed?

                Its beginning to frustrate now.

                IF this is the case, im effectively going to have to choose whether to have dual use and remove the AC system, or just bin the whole idea and stick with the Digi side.

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                • doza

                  Merry Christmas - sound like you are making use of your holiday

                  How do you have the ACS chips powered? are they Henkys chips? I have the Digital Racing Solutions ACS chips and have not seen what you are describing.

                  I did isolate everything digital that wasn't track rail power into a completely separate isolated circuit so that none of the ACS, lane changers, timing tower, driver displays etc are powered when I run analog. its kind of a pain but it makes sure none of the accessories are powered at less than 14 volts.

                  The other thing that was painful for me was redoing my power jumpers to separate them for each lane - the great 4 wires vs 2 wire debate on power jumpers.

                  All of that being said, I rarely find my self running more than 1 analog car at a time. I will basically run them to test them, then decide to chip or not. The plug and play Carson DPR chip for the Scaley cars has even eliminated a lot of that.

                  In the end - for how I have actually ended up using it - there isn't much impact for having the lanes tied together

                  Cheers

                  Ed

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                  • Originally posted by edmagner View Post
                    In the end - for how I have actually ended up using it - there isn't much impact for having the lanes tied together

                    Same here. I did have my setup working with Henky's ACS chips and running two analog lanes. Like you, all the lane changers, lap counters and accessories are fed separately. I had a 'chipped lanes' setup for a while, but when I bought an aftermarket power supply, I set it up so I could use my slot.it analog controller on the analog lanes.

                    When my semi-permanent track developed a couple of poor conductivity spots, but only in one lane, I fixed it with quick and dirty jumpers across the lanes.

                    I have only one analog controller in the house, and after seven+ years of dual use, I can't remember a time when both analog lanes were in use at the same time. I did have a moment when one lane was running analog, and the other lane was running digital, but that was for about 10 minutes. So I am cool with one big analog lane. I use it to tune and test analog cars, and I am doing less and less of that.

                    Of course, it depends on how you use your track. If you really intend to race analog cars in those two lanes, it is possible to make it all work. If I remember right, it was a bit tricky when I installed the ACS chips. Needed to make sure nothing fed from one lane to the other. I don't believe it's feeding back through the chips. Never did on mine, anyway.
                    Last edited by b.yingling; 12-29-2016, 09:54 AM.

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                    • thank you for the replies.

                      One of the reasons for doing this was because i have a few old classics Scalextric cars that i wanted to use on the Layout. There are also a few new additions which i have where its just physically impossible to get a chip in the car. The idea of chipping lanes basically made the system compete with Scalextric and what they have with the 6 car pb. It also means that my good friend who is collector, can run his old cars on my track as he doesnt have one himself.

                      I thought it was more power taps at first, so i removed them but still the problem is there.
                      The AC chips take their power from the track as per the instructions. They are Henkys ones. Maybe this is the issue, as as soon as i replaced the connecting tab in that piece of track, the problem came back. I can also hear a couple of the lane changers-mainly the pit entry humming. This volume increases with more throttle.

                      I obviously have an issue somewhere. Im just loosing patience trying to find it lol.

                      I was hoping this was going to be a relatively simple conversion.

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                      • Originally posted by scalexdoza View Post
                        They are Henkys ones. Maybe this is the issue, as as soon as i replaced the connecting tab in that piece of track, the problem came back. I can also hear a couple of the lane changers-mainly the pit entry humming. This volume increases with more throttle.

                        I obviously have an issue somewhere. Im just loosing patience trying to find it lol.

                        I was hoping this was going to be a relatively simple conversion.

                        It's been a while, but the Henky instructions recommend placing jumpers only 'after' the lane changers, and not before, as they isolate one rail of the trigger track piece. I know it can work, as mine did for many years- but I do remember I had to move at least one jumper. And my lane changer circuit boards were already fed separately.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by b.yingling View Post
                          It's been a while, but the Henky instructions recommend placing jumpers only 'after' the lane changers, and not before, as they isolate one rail of the trigger track piece. I know it can work, as mine did for many years- but I do remember I had to move at least one jumper. And my lane changer circuit boards were already fed separately.

                          That would make sense as when I put the layout back together I found that putting the power tap in before the changer stopped the AC from working. Instructions are long gone, but you confirmed my suspicions.
                          But I don't have any power taps at present. I removed them in case I'd got my lanes mixed up... so I can eliminate that.

                          This is the most involved piece of electrics I've added to the layout. Aside from power taps and the Ac chips, everything runs as Carrera intended.

                          Next process is probably to remove the links to the opposing Lane on the ac chips and see if this makes a difference just to rule them out if nothing else. If that doesn't work, well then I'm stumped. I know it's not my box as that works perfectly.

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