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Grading chart for condition of cars

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  • Grading chart for condition of cars

    I have been looking for a chart that tells you the condition of a slot car.
    C10 being new in package and c1 being junk. is there a chart from 1 - 10 out there that everyone follows when grading their cars?

  • #2
    I have never head of such a chart. I have seen criteria for describing used books, but that is not a numerical system. Unless you can take measurements of some sort any grading system will have to be subjective and different people are bound to have different opinions of what might constitute an "8" for example. That is even presuming that the seller is trying to be honest. Pictures can be helpful if they are large enough and are of good quality, but there is no substitute for holding a car in your hands and looking it over carefully. If you buy things on ebay and are not satisfied you might be more likely to at least get a refund if things do not work out. If you are considering buying a rather expensive collector's item you might be able to work out an agreement with the seller to return an unsatisfactory item for a refund, providing that you pay the return shipping.

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    • #3
      Yep there is no universal grading system that I know of either.

      The best way is to examine any pictures of the car as closely and as thoroughly as you can and compare it to other similar cars in similar condition to get an idea of the average price for the car in the condition you seek.

      Then you can set your price limit and search until you find a car that satisfies your criteria. Sometimes it takes awhile to find a particular car in a particular condition at a particular price.

      Slot car shows are often where the best deals are had, and you have the added bonus (as Rich pointed out) of holding the car in your hands and examining it with your own eyes.

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      • #4
        There is/was such a chart Doc.

        It was posted up on Hobby Talk eons ago in the Ebay Beware Thread. That long running, helpful thread was vaporized due to sniveling politics; so there's no point in backtracking that angle.

        Best bet is to contact Slot Car Johnny, unless someone coughs up with it here. I think "SCJ" is his handle here. Maybe Bob Beers or Tom Stumpf could help you out as well. Occasionally you'll see it pop up on Ebay searches, as some high end sellers used to include it in their auctions.

        It's not so much about what a car isnt, it's all about what the car is.
        Last edited by model murdering; 06-14-2017, 08:08 AM.

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        • #5
          .
          Used this in the stamp'n'letter days... Several variations...

          Sorry... Table is copyrighted...



          10+ - New, in packaging
          10 - New, with packaging separate
          9 - New, no packaging
          8 - Like new
          7 - Minor track-wear
          6 - Bumper-wear & scratches
          5 - Worn, with scratches & nicks
          4 - Cut wheel wells, but nice
          3 - Cut badly, but good runner
          2 - Good for parts only
          1 - Good for nothing

          Add to number: (*) - Missing parts; (**) - Broken / repaired parts


          John
          .
          Last edited by Dushkwoneshe; 06-14-2017, 09:04 AM. Reason: Removed copyrighted table...

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          • #6
            Gradings were really important pre-digital camera era.
            Now it's all about your own standards.

            Gradings are also subjective, arbitrary. A bent window post on an otherwise choicy piece may only detract one point. It might detract two on a less desirable one, or vice versa.
            All depends on the buyer and seller and what they're after.

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            • #7
              Thanks guys for the info and help, I new there was one I just couldnt find it.
              Thanks again for all the info

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              • #8
                Even if such a grading system existed, I would not trust it (for some of the reasons others have given). I don't "bid" on the internet for cars. If I cannot hold them in my hands and check them out personally, I don't want them.
                Having said that, I am becoming a bit annoyed with a collector I have bought from (and trusted) over the years at the slot car shows I frequent. Twice now, I have made recent purchases after a "look over" of either a body or a chassis, only to discover when I tore them down at home a body was actually broken in two places and cleverly glued together, and in another case a Super G+ chassis had also been glued together (under the chassis magnets, one of which had been glued in). I didn't pay a great deal for either; I like to find stuff sometimes I can rebuild/repaint. And maybe my seller "friend" did not realize their condition (stuff gets bought/traded at the same shows in the same day), but it was annoying to me. No, I did not call him to complain; I have bought enough stuff over the years that was GOOD, at prices I deemed fair, and I figure that I should have looked closer. So what good does "condition ratings" really do, IF we all have different ideas what "1 to 10" really means?

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                • #9
                  .
                  I believe the grading system was *lifted* from the die cast guys...

                  Not many use it much anymore, I guess... I still find myself mouthing it,
                  whenever I look at listings on the 'bay...

                  In the '80's & '90's, when you received a newsletter in the mail, the first
                  section I went to was, *For Sale or Trade*... Any sellers would list what
                  cars they had to move and what condition they were in... It's all you had
                  to go on... Never *got burnt*... Well... Maybe once or twice

                  Condition 1 and 8-9-10, are pretty well set... Have seen different wording
                  and additions to Condition 2-7 over the years...

                  It's a good system and was / can be used worldwide for *The Hunt*...

                  John
                  .

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                  • #10
                    The system that was posted is quite good in my opinion. I would rate this car (if it had the original wheels and tires of course) as a 7 ** front wing repaired.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Speedhoppy View Post
                      Even if such a grading system existed, I would not trust it (for some of the reasons others have given). I don't "bid" on the internet for cars. If I cannot hold them in my hands and check them out personally, I don't want them.
                      Having said that, I am becoming a bit annoyed with a collector I have bought from (and trusted) over the years at the slot car shows I frequent. Twice now, I have made recent purchases after a "look over" of either a body or a chassis, only to discover when I tore them down at home a body was actually broken in two places and cleverly glued together, and in another case a Super G+ chassis had also been glued together (under the chassis magnets, one of which had been glued in). I didn't pay a great deal for either; I like to find stuff sometimes I can rebuild/repaint. And maybe my seller "friend" did not realize their condition (stuff gets bought/traded at the same shows in the same day), but it was annoying to me. No, I did not call him to complain; I have bought enough stuff over the years that was GOOD, at prices I deemed fair, and I figure that I should have looked closer. So what good does "condition ratings" really do, IF we all have different ideas what "1 to 10" really means?
                      Yup. If you inspected it, then the responsibility remains with you.
                      Like you said, your friend may also have not torn the car down when he acquired it. Buyers have to make their own decisions. Numbers can be a general guide, but look items over, in person or in photos.

                      I've found some of my best stuff on line. Lots of NOS stuff coming up in the AFX arena lately, and at amazing prices. I ask for more, or better, pictures if I need them.
                      98% of purchases are just fine; the ones that aren't the sellers are usually happy to replace or refund part or all.

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