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  • Nice strip, I like the way you have staging and the starting line setup.

    Comment


    • Making some progress, I've named the track the "Goodwrench Intimidator" after a forum member here who posted a photo of his layout that I liked so much I decided to use as my layout also. The track has a nice rhythm to it and can be run both ways atm. Still a lot of work left to do but wanted to share a short video where it's at so far: https://youtu.be/wXExhLO62E0

      I'm looking for some ideas for track apron preferably the same height and easy to bend into shape for the curves. I read somewhere on one of the HO slot car forums that somebody posted they used Evergreen Plastic Styrene Strips but I don't know which size to use and I didn't book mark where I had seen it posted. I'd like the material to be the same height as my AFX track and 3/4" or 1" wide if possible.

      The layout is a permanent AFX track with AFX track joining clips underneath and counter sunk screws holding it in place as I'd like to keep it fairly serviceable without too much hassle to pull out a track section if needed.

      I have to re-adjust and most likely replace some of the overpass supports as the track layout changed a bit when I put on the track clips which tightened it a lot more than without them.

      Thanks for looking

      Comment


      • Your track is looking great. Borders, a number of options depending upon how you want to do them. McMaster-Carr sells some black rubber strips that fit, HOSLotcarracing web site has some borders you can buy. Some folks have used cork model RR bed. I actually used 1/4" MDF cut to shape and painted black. Works well for me. I am sure others will chime in with additional options.

        Charlie
        Last edited by MSwaterlogged; 11-03-2016, 04:42 PM. Reason: wrong web site

        Comment


        • Thanks Charlie, I've been in contact with Greg from HOSLotcarracing and he told me that he's back ordered for the rubber neoprene borders. He says 6-8 weeks most likely to get them back in stock.

          I tried some of the cork strips for trains but it's not quite the same height as it sits too low next to the track.

          I suppose I could cut my own borders out of MDF or similar as you did but I'm sure I wouldn't be able to cut it so it sits flush against the track as all I have for wood working tools is a jigsaw and circular saw. I don't want to use filler between the track and border because I want to be able to remove track sections when I need to.

          I'm hoping there's some sort of plastic styrene strips somebody knows about that's fairly easy to work with that I could bend and shape around corners then I could either nail or glue it in place. I would need it 1/4" in height and 3/4" wide but I don't know what to use.

          Comment


          • Not sure you are going to find any styrene of that size that will bend the way you want. Actually the mdf option is not very hard. I used a jig saw for most of it. I used actual track to mark the MDF, cut it out leaving the pencil line and filed/sanded it down. I made my own sanding blocks out of 1x pine by laying out the curved track on the pine (only need 4" or so), cut it out, smooth the curved edge, attach sandpaper (i used self adhesive stuff) and went to work sanding the MDF curves. Since you are using the same radius block, it worked pretty well.

            Don't know if this will work for you.
            https://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-strips/=14wai4f

            Good luck,
            Charlie

            Comment


            • Those are some good ideas,Charlie. I will have to remember that if the time comes. Next,I used the cork bed on my last track. But I wasn't pickey about height as I did not want to use them as speed corners. Actually I used them inside the corners to replicate curbing and painted them red&white.
              I suppose you could build layers of the cork up to height you need,sorry if you already tried this. Actually I think Gary and several others here have used foam board and they say it's easy to cut and work with. Hobby Lobby or Craft stores should have that. Good Luck!

              Comment


              • http://www.slotborders.com/


                Brad Bowmen makes these

                Brad's Tracks
                Custom Routed Slotcar Tracks

                Join Date: Jan 2011
                Location: Esc, Ca.
                Posts: 20


                HO slot car track drift aprons
                I make these aprons to catch your drift.
                The smallest ones (for the outside of 6" radius curves) are $3 each (1/8th circle / 45),
                then go up in steps of 25 each by each larger size. (9" $3.25 / 12" $3.50 / 15" $3.75 / 18" $4.00)
                The straights are $3.25 each
                They are made from plastic, so you should get the same tire grip as the "click together" track.
                (Prices doesn't include S&H).
                email: [email protected]
                phone: 760-298-4027
                Attached Thumbnails

                __________________
                Brad

                http://www.bradstracks.com
                Last edited by Ogre; 11-08-2016, 04:35 AM.

                Comment


                • Thanks Ogre, I saw those and they look great but it looks to me like they raise the track too much along the edge where they attach under the track.

                  Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions so far guys, I appreciate them and hopefully one of them will work out for me

                  Comment


                  • Cork roadbed , cereal boxes , a pencil , a roll of two-sided Scotch tape , an Xacto knife and a pair of scissors will solve your dilemma . Trace the outside edge of the curve track on the cereal box . Eyeball about an inch width (don't worry about how even it is . it doesn't matter as long as it is wider than the cork .) and cut out the pieces . You'll end up with a whole pile of half-moon and U-shaped pieces . Mount the track , lay out the cereal box pieces next to it with some 2 sided scotch tape just to hold it still . Don't worry about the outer edge of the cardboard we'll deal with that last . Now put down your cork . You should find the cork is now the right height . Once you have all your cork mounted , Go back with the X-Acto knife and trim the cardboard along the edge of the cork . Viola !
                    You're done .... Unless you want to paint it with Rustoleum Satin Black .

                    P.S. If by chance you intend to "fill in" the infield at a later date , consider mounting the cork upside-down (wide side up) . It comes out wider then and is easier to fit fillers to . Especially handy if you are going to use plaster or any of the composite foams or fillers for your infield . The inverted taper is easy to back fill to an even height at the edge .

                    If you're short on cereal boxes send me a PM with a mailing address and I'll send you a stack . I still have a bunch I haven't tossed .
                    Last edited by ctdurf; 11-05-2016, 03:52 PM. Reason: supply offer

                    Comment


                    • Finished....

                      Zen Raceway East. Built with Artin 1/32nd track. Each lane 36 feet. Timing system is Slottrack software utilizing Trackmate hardware. Maxtrack driver hookups.

                      Comment


                      • Nice track !

                        Comment


                        • a lot of good memories here... very nice thread. paul

                          Comment


                          • As mentioned by Durf, I have been filling the open areas of the track with Foamcore board. I can get it fairly inexpensively at Hobby Lobby. Trying to get the exact fit to the track is as hard with foamboard as it is with wood. So, using the "template method" the process became almost simplistic. I purchased a roll of construction grade paper sold at any big box handyman store like Home depot and Menards. This paper is used to cover newly laid down wood flooring to protect it. The entire roll was $10-13? Not much!! Anyhow, cut a piece of paper large enough to cover the open areas and tape it in place. Then run your fingers-thumb over the edge of the track and it will put a crease in the paper where the track edges are. Cut the paper on those creased edges and you now have the shape of the open area between your track edges. Transfer that shape onto the foamboard and trace it out. I use a black sharpie and cut with a Exacto #11 knife on the side of the edge that gives me a tad bit larger form that what will fit into the open area. I then sand the edge of the foamboard until it fits nicely into the opening. I use 100 grit sandpaper to sand the edge of the foam so it doesn't take all day long. There is no reason to not be able to make perfectly shaped boarders using the same method if you what 1"-4" boarders instead of filling in the entire area.


                            I plan on painting the racing line on my track and foamboard surface. Here is the link to my track build in the "Routed Track Section". the last couple pages will show my progress with filling in the areas with foamboard. Start at post#70. You may not want to get as complex as what I am doing. Each corner is a labor of love (PITA) in the elevated areas. Hope this helps as it is a VERY easy and cheap way of boarding your track.


                            Gary
                            http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...t=50497&page=5


                            .

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by ctdurf View Post
                              Cork roadbed , cereal boxes , a pencil , a roll of two-sided Scotch tape , an Xacto knife and a pair of scissors will solve your dilemma . Trace the outside edge of the curve track on the cereal box . Eyeball about an inch width (don't worry about how even it is . it doesn't matter as long as it is wider than the cork .) and cut out the pieces . You'll end up with a whole pile of half-moon and U-shaped pieces . Mount the track , lay out the cereal box pieces next to it with some 2 sided scotch tape just to hold it still . Don't worry about the outer edge of the cardboard we'll deal with that last . Now put down your cork . You should find the cork is now the right height . Once you have all your cork mounted , Go back with the X-Acto knife and trim the cardboard along the edge of the cork . Viola !
                              You're done .... Unless you want to paint it with Rustoleum Satin Black .

                              P.S. If by chance you intend to "fill in" the infield at a later date , consider mounting the cork upside-down (wide side up) . It comes out wider then and is easier to fit fillers to . Especially handy if you are going to use plaster or any of the composite foams or fillers for your infield . The inverted taper is easy to back fill to an even height at the edge .

                              If you're short on cereal boxes send me a PM with a mailing address and I'll send you a stack . I still have a bunch I haven't tossed .
                              This is great, you explained the process well!

                              Sent you a PM, thank you


                              Originally posted by fastlap View Post
                              As mentioned by Durf, I have been filling the open areas of the track with Foamcore board. I can get it fairly inexpensively at Hobby Lobby. Trying to get the exact fit to the track is as hard with foamboard as it is with wood. So, using the "template method" the process became almost simplistic. I purchased a roll of construction grade paper sold at any big box handyman store like Home depot and Menards. This paper is used to cover newly laid down wood flooring to protect it. The entire roll was $10-13? Not much!! Anyhow, cut a piece of paper large enough to cover the open areas and tape it in place. Then run your fingers-thumb over the edge of the track and it will put a crease in the paper where the track edges are. Cut the paper on those creased edges and you now have the shape of the open area between your track edges. Transfer that shape onto the foamboard and trace it out. I use a black sharpie and cut with a Exacto #11 knife on the side of the edge that gives me a tad bit larger form that what will fit into the open area. I then sand the edge of the foamboard until it fits nicely into the opening. I use 100 grit sandpaper to sand the edge of the foam so it doesn't take all day long. There is no reason to not be able to make perfectly shaped boarders using the same method if you what 1"-4" boarders instead of filling in the entire area.


                              I plan on painting the racing line on my track and foamboard surface. Here is the link to my track build in the "Routed Track Section". the last couple pages will show my progress with filling in the areas with foamboard. Start at post#70. You may not want to get as complex as what I am doing. Each corner is a labor of love (PITA) in the elevated areas. Hope this helps as it is a VERY easy and cheap way of boarding your track.


                              Gary
                              http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...t=50497&page=5


                              .
                              Wow, nice track Gary! I think I'm good to go now with your and Durf's techniques and the explanations have given me a firm grasp on how to go about making borders and filling the infield now.

                              REALLY appreciate all the ideas people have posted thus far, SCI is a great place and I'm thankful for it

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by nextacyn View Post

                                REALLY appreciate all the ideas people have posted thus far, SCI is a great place and I'm thankful for it


                                Comment

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