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Mega G and Mega G+ Question

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  • #16
    I ended up buying three bare chassis from Jag. I have spare wheel/axel sets that I will use to complete the chassis for my static cars. But will be very interested in any future F1 releases!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by model murdering View Post
      The total height of any M series mini-motor chassis should be the same. The SL 1&2 are .388 from the bottom frame rail to the ceiling of the can, .
      The HWP chassis do not take the M motor.

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      • #18
        Just a typo Deane

        My fat fingers always type the M when the Mega G+ is on my mind, so you can call off Interpol and cancel the arrest.

        Chubby digits aside, the HWP chassis you chose to interject into the discussion uses an over-slung body clip on top of the motor; so it can never be lower than a de-horned Mega G + that uses under-slung body mounts at the frame rail.

        The over-slung clip just adds the green wire and the solder blob right back into the total height, AND it adds additional material to both sides of the lateral clearance dimension under the cowling, for a trifecta of extra chub.




        Last edited by model murdering; 07-14-2019, 10:39 PM.

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        • #19
          The trick with a body clip adapter is to glue it to to either the chassis or the body and remove the part that goes over the top of the chassis. Viper Scale Racing sells low rider clips for Tomy/G3/Viper chassis that let you get the body as low as possible.

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          • #20
            There are a couple of other ways Gary could put his F1s on the HWP and avoid the humpy clip problem.

            With traction magnets mounted in the body F1 bodies in our scale could reach hitherto untouched levels of accuracy.

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            • #21
              What is HWP?

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              • #22
                HighWingPilot, a creator of brilliant AM chassis that are very 'small form'.

                He posts on here too.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by NicoRosberg. View Post
                  There are a couple of other ways Gary could put his F1s on the HWP and avoid the humpy clip problem.

                  With traction magnets mounted in the body F1 bodies in our scale could reach hitherto untouched levels of accuracy.
                  Then we would be approaching the "chassis and body as single unit" problem. Each complete car would be both body and chassis, which yes, would give you untold levels of accuracy in modeling, but would then eliminate the option to swap bodies and chassis. Not to mention, it would most likely only be possible using 3D printing, which is not a medium that Gary uses.

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                  • #24
                    I purchased a Mega G+ chassis to evaluate performance. I use 45-ohm Professor Motor controllers with Astron 35-amp power supply. I am not impressed with the chassis. Cannot find a voltage that yields good control. It was like the throttle was on/off. No bandwidth. I switched to a 60-ohm Parma controller and it was a little better.

                    What is the recommended voltage and controller resistance for this chassis?

                    i will still use my Viper (3 and 6 ohm) chassis for most of my racing. The Mega G and Mega G+ (if I find a good setup) will be for my resin F1 bodies only.

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                    • #25
                      120 ohm if you are going to use a resistor controller. Pretty much any of the adjustable electronic controllers should work fine.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Bonez View Post
                        The Mega G and Mega G+ (if I find a good setup) will be for my resin F1 bodies only.
                        That's the only reason I have any Mega G+ long wheelbase chassis: to use them for Gary's resin bodies. In agreement with gmcullan's correct statement above, AFX recommends 120 ohm controllers with the G+ due to the newfangled can motor setup, and indeed their newest sets with G+ cars come with 120 ohm controllers in the boxes.

                        I use a switchable DS set at 120 for 18-20V runs, and I can get away with a 90 if I reduce voltage to 12 or less.

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                        • #27
                          I will be building a large 1:32-scale track starting this Fall. Is an adjustable electronic controller best suited for 1:32 since most chassis feature different motors? If so, then I will use those for the Mega G+ based resin F1 cars. Is this feasible?

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                          • #28
                            It's definitely feasible, the question is if you can find a single controller that will adjust from 10-40 ohms for 1/32 all the way up to 120 for the Mega G+, while still giving you the full proper range of trigger control on all settings.

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                            • #29
                              I have some Professor Motor adjustable electronic controllers that work well from T-Jets up through out-of-the-box 1/32 scale cars. Great all-around knock-about controllers.

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                              • #30
                                gmcullan - what model number are you recommending? Thanks.

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