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  • svanaken
    started a topic Removing magnets

    Removing magnets

    I just obtained one of the new AFX Ford GT-40s and have a couple of questions.

    One; how do you remove the traction magnets from these cars? There seems to be a small tab in each of the magnet housings, but I see no way to push it aside to get the magnet out.

    Second is about the little piece of plastic on the bottom of the motor. Is that supposed to stay there or be removed.

    I'm also wondering about the actual scale of these as they are considerably larger than my old Thunderjet GT-40s.

    Thanks,
    Scotti

  • svanaken
    replied
    Originally posted by NicoRosberg. View Post
    Cutting tabs off? Oh my! Glue? double oh my!!

    If the OP is talking about the Mega-G chassis, then you can overcome the tabs in both directions with a little force.

    Whilst doing so play around with turning them over to find the low and high donwforce settings. You can also buy ceramic traction magnets for the Mega. The stock magnets are mid-strength Neos.
    Thanks for the information. I'm actually looking to remove magnets as I'm basically a no-mag sort of hobbyist. I know it is impossible with the old Aurora AFX cars so live with it.

    For other suggestions, those are good ones, but at the moment, I'm stuck with the power produced by the Aurora wall warts. Besides, if I dropped the voltage much below what it is these wall warts produce (and it isn't listed on them), some of my classic T-jets probably wouldn't run at all!

    The more I try out other HO car types, fun though they are to mess with, the more it seems that I"ll stick with the pancake motor types.

    Scott

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  • ncdslots
    replied
    someone on here, know him, but forget his exact user id, runs a tyco 440 class on their track. non mag, pinned bodies, silicones....at 10 volts. He claims it's seriously fun racing. I do agree the voltage drop would offset the stupid speed dramatically.

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  • stez1970
    replied
    I would have to agree with Rich. Dropping the voltage would probably work better than adding the weight. For the weight to work properly, I would think the weights would need to sit in the chassis much lower than the magnets are presently sitting. Plus the 12 volts would get rid of the so called stupid speed.

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  • RichD
    replied
    At normal voltages cars designed to have a lot of magnetic downforce are going to be difficult to drive in most cases. It helps to add weight where the traction magnet/s were. You would be better off reducing the track voltage somewhat. BSRT G-Jets are intended to be run at 12 volts. Using the right controller becomes more important when you are running a car that wants to slide out at the limit.

    Leave a comment:


  • NicoRosberg.
    replied
    Cutting tabs off? Oh my! Glue? double oh my!!

    If the OP is talking about the Mega-G chassis, then you can overcome the tabs in both directions with a little force.

    Whilst doing so play around with turning them over to find the low and high donwforce settings. You can also buy ceramic traction magnets for the Mega. The stock magnets are mid-strength Neos.

    Leave a comment:


  • svanaken
    replied
    I have to agree with you. I just got back into HO a few weeks ago and pretty much all my old cars are pre 1971. The old AFX are really nice in that they handle well and are not stupid fast. Many of my old T-jets have brass pans with AJ's silicones and aluminum wheels, though I have a bunch of fronts missing nuts (hence an earlier post requesting some; which are coming).

    I bought one modern Autoworld AFX and Autoworld T-jet and after pulling the magnet from the AFX, it runs fairly well. Neither of them have any coast to them, which is probably due to newer and stronger magnets. The Tomy AFX car even without the magnets is very fast and not at all smooth. I'll give some consideration to putting in some weight to see if that helps smooth it out.

    I'm not sure how popular no/low mag running is in HO, but just about all my 1/32 cars run without magnets.

    Scott

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  • ncdslots
    replied
    mega g 1.5??

    In my opinion, I ran my mega g 1.7 without magnets, and with silicones. The performance was very acceptable. What would put it over the top, would be some brass weights to drop in where the magnets were...that would give a bit more weight....

    IDK, I long for the way it was, a time before I was around I guess....non mag racing, brass pan chassis, Doug Morris style.... old brass chassis plates/mods have SO much character and style....I don't like to go stupid fast, that's why cars like wizzards and bsrts and hot motored cars, aren't my bag of tea. I like to race realistically, and there is no car on the road that goes like 800mph...lol

    I ran an HPX-2 tyco without magnets also, it was sooo fun as the mega g without mags was.

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  • svanaken
    replied
    Originally posted by Tsooko View Post
    I just cut the tab off with a sharp exacto knife. When replacing the magnet push it in and put a dab of glue over them. I like silicone as it comes off easy if you got to do it again. Ca for a more permanent hold.
    The plastic piece can be removed or leave it in. Both the tab and the plastic are so kid's don't ether swallow the mag or burn their fingers on the hot motor. Toy laws. And watch out for the slot car police. They will raid your house and check all your cars ,EH!!!

    I think the scale is 1/64. True ho is 1/87. Different companies make different sizes. Non is entirely true to scale from what I have seen. Run em like you stold em!
    Ted
    Thanks for the info. I was able to push them out after much straining. The car runs fairly well without the traction magnets, but seems sensitive to the resistance of the controller you use. I have a variety of ohmages (25, 35 and whatever the stock orange Aurora controllers are) and none seem to offer a very smooth power band.

    Scott

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  • Tsooko
    replied
    I just cut the tab off with a sharp exacto knife. When replacing the magnet push it in and put a dab of glue over them. I like silicone as it comes off easy if you got to do it again. Ca for a more permanent hold.
    The plastic piece can be removed or leave it in. Both the tab and the plastic are so kid's don't ether swallow the mag or burn their fingers on the hot motor. Toy laws. And watch out for the slot car police. They will raid your house and check all your cars ,EH!!!

    I think the scale is 1/64. True ho is 1/87. Different companies make different sizes. Non is entirely true to scale from what I have seen. Run em like you stold em!
    Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • Green Destiny
    replied
    Mega G or SRT car?

    Leave a comment:

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