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Mega G tuner thread

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  • Mega G tuner thread

    Ok guys there are some tuning threads for the mega g on the forum but I wanted to get serious with the mega platform and get some some tips and builds that will help people with megas get them to be a solid racer. I have contacted Andy (Woodcote) to help me out since I don't have a ton of race experience and Im going to do a build and try to get this thread going for an evolution of tuning for the mega g and see where it takes us. I know there are probably others that have good imput to add and that is welcome, but please lets not turn this thread into a typical forum argument, lets keep it fun and educational.

  • #2
    here is a parts list strait from Woodcote, its where I am starting my build, it is based on rules that his club uses, obviously things can be changed like independent front axle or stronger mags, but like I said this is how Im building.




    The nearest to the N42 neo mags I used are the Harden Creek ones. It might be worth asking Terry the strength. I have some N48 mags and I think they are a little strong, but I am going to fit them for next season to see if I can get a little more RPM. There are plenty N50 mags out there to try. It is absolutely imperative you use hard compound silicones or even rubber tires to stop the car 'squishing down' and the motor overheating.

    The part list (including 2 alternative rear axles)

    1.5 (short wheel base) Mega-G chassis
    Mega-G body clip (to strengthen chassis and stop spreading)

    Chassis drilled to take brass pin tubes (eg for 1/24 brass cars, Parma, Koford etc) to mount lexan body. BSRT G3 body posts could also be used, I think.

    Wizzard CH04 Pro Guide pin (Tyco)
    Wizzard WS13B Stock Storm front axle set

    Wizzard WS02 Stock Storm motor brushes
    (Stock Mega-G tubes, springs + pick-ups and springs)

    Wizzard AA4 .010” nylon spacer between rear of armature and rear bearing

    N42 neo bricks for SRT / Mega-G. In ‘low downforce’ mode (see pic below). You don't need to glue these, but they will spread the chassis a little. Shave the bottom of the lug on the chassis if you can.

    Rear axle 1

    BSRT953 G3 rear axle
    BSRT422 Delrin crown gear shaved (quite a lot) to fit, glued with green vibratite
    Wizzard AA9 .005” phos bronze spacer & Wizzard AA4 .010” nylon spacer between chassis and crown gear – adjust for correct mesh.
    Wizzard WS Stock Storm 7T pinion - glued with green vibratite
    Wizzard RA18 .275” OD double flanged narrow hubs
    Hard compound tires (eg ‘B’ compound Supertires) cut to correct width.

    Rear axle 2

    Titanium drill blank .063”
    Wizzard RGP20 Pro-Predator 20T crown gear shaved (slightly) to fit and glued with green vibratite
    Wizzard AA9 .005” phos bronze spacer & Wizzard AA4 .010” nylon spacer between chassis and crown gear – adjust for correct mesh.
    Wizzard RGP07 Pro-Predator 7T pinion - glued with green vibratite
    Wizzard RA18 .275” OD double flanged narrow hubs
    Hard compound tires (eg ‘B’ compound Supertires) cut to correct width.
    Last edited by kmas65; 01-15-2013, 05:24 AM.

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    • #3
      Why not place this in the existing threads?

      Do you race in a club, or intend to at some point? Their rules should be studied in detail before you start a build of any kind....

      Comment


      • #4

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        • #5
          Mucho credit to both Woodcote and Kmas for providing this information.

          Kmas--Perhaps consider some "before" and "after" metrics, if you are so inclined.

          Maybe rate of acceleration, top speed, and some sort of G-force measurment--so that the results can be extrapolated by individuals to their own speedways.

          Actually, it is your deal--and an ambitious one--proceed however you like--& thx for sharing!

          Given the parts list, this thing could be called the Mega-Wiz (or, um, maybe not)!

          Comment


          • #6
            here is a picture of an older mega 1.7. The mag holes on the bottom are opened up more. I have opened some up on the newer megas and there was no notice in down force.

            I was told this before doing the work but had to find out for myself..........yeah doesnt work.

            Last edited by kmas65; 01-15-2013, 05:53 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              The newer version has several other differences, all covered in the existing threads I believe.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by NicoRosberg. View Post
                Why not place this in the existing threads?

                Do you race in a club, or intend to at some point? Their rules should be studied in detail before you start a build of any kind....
                becuase they are dead and cluttered with non related info, I was hoping that this would be different but Im not holding my breath. as far as the rules, I don't really care, I dont race there, if you want to throw up your build list per your rules feel free, maybe I make a car between the two rule parameters, but if you think that Im building per rules, not the case, building for fun and a fine tuned car and to get more interest in the mega, my family has the death grip on SRTS. I hope that clarifies my intentions and goals, I havent started building yet so feel free to drop some race tips that have worked for you.


                ps, I only dropped the rules from Woodcote to help make sense of the build list, no other reason.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Gotcha. It's a home build.

                  Have you seen the one on the Harden Creek website?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Slotbob View Post
                    Mucho credit to both Woodcote and Kmas for providing this information.

                    Kmas--Perhaps consider some "before" and "after" metrics, if you are so inclined.

                    Maybe rate of acceleration, top speed, and some sort of G-force measurment--so that the results can be extrapolated by individuals to their own speedways.

                    Actually, it is your deal--and an ambitious one--proceed however you like--& thx for sharing!

                    Given the parts list, this thing could be called the Mega-Wiz (or, um, maybe not)!
                    I will have pics, that was the point, pic by pic build, with good tips as I go.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by NicoRosberg. View Post
                      Gotcha. It's a home build.

                      Have you seen the one on the Harden Creek website?
                      yeah, I will be reviewing that again, thx for the reminder

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i think your doin great i have a home track and my nephew has one we r trying to get some racing started, i like the mega chassis we can get them easily and they run good

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by kmas65 View Post
                          here is a picture of an older mega 1.7. The mag holes on the bottom are opened up more. I have opened some up on the newer megas and there was no notice in down force.

                          I was told this before doing the work but had to find out for myself..........yeah doesnt work.

                          You don't just open up the holes--you lower the magnets to the bottom of the chassis! Then you'll have to use bigger tires to reduce the downforce. Different size tires for tuning work very well for different tracks! And yes--there are two sides to the magnets--one way is high downforce--flip them for lower down force. It WORKS
                          T

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by tim neja View Post
                            You don't just open up the holes--you lower the magnets to the bottom of the chassis! Then you'll have to use bigger tires to reduce the downforce. Different size tires for tuning work very well for different tracks! And yes--there are two sides to the magnets--one way is high downforce--flip them for lower down force. It WORKS
                            T
                            how are you lowering the mags? have you lowered yours?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by tim neja View Post
                              there are two sides to the magnets--one way is high downforce--flip them for lower down force
                              Flip one. Specifically, the 'passenger side'/'nearside'/'kerbside' one if in the UK.

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