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Playing Around With The Mega G 1.7

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  • Playing Around With The Mega G 1.7

    There have been a number of posts about the Mega G, in both long & short wheelbase versions. More than a few posts about improving performance, by "flipping" or substituting the chassis magnets for stronger ones, gear/pinion changes, new wheel/tire combination both front and rear, changes in brush barrels, etc. There is a current post right now by JLM Racing ("Yobear"), which has a lot of information.
    Like a lot of Forum members I don't belong to a racing club. But, I read, I ask questions, and try a few things, because while I like the Mega G cars overall, I like to "tinker" to a limited extent, to improve the performance on my particular layout. Most every "set" car can usually be improved with rear tire upgrades to the standard hard rubber tire, but as can be seen from previous posts, more can be done. So, as best as I can, I will share what I discovered. It's nothing earthshakingly new; but it validates some of the things that have been suggested, and in one particular change, really opened up my eyes.

    THE PROBLEM: While the Mega G 1.7 is very smooth on wider radius turns, it does not do well on tight turns; on my track, that's the entrance/exit to my "Double Split Chicane" (with squeeze tracks sandwiched in between):



    And my chicane just before my main grandstand (made up of 6" & 9" segments):



    These are tight "S" turns, but they can be negotiated; just slower than the Mega G 1.5, as well as my other cars with a shorter wheelbase. Generally, the Mega G 1.7 front end would lift off and deslot the car, although sometimes it would swap ends and spin around backwards. I generally put this down to the longer front end of my Audi R10's and Peugeot 908's catching on fencing or barriers, but in looking closer, that was not the case. I assumed that the guide pin placement behind the front axles was part of the problem, but that could not be addressed, (unless someone fabricated something like Nico has shown on the Forum, but is not available here). So, I looked at what others were doing with the front end, and used that as my starting point. I have not "flipped"/changed magnets; I wanted to see what could be done without that modification, and try it if my "fiddling" didn't give me the results I needed. So, here are my three comparison chassis, unmodified except for new, lower front ends, and upgraded rear tires:



    Left:Car#1- Front end a standard BSRT solid front end off my "G-Jet" (when I went with an independent front set up for that chassis), .352 dia. according to my BSRT Tire Template, with original Mega G rear hubs mounting .456 Jel Claws. Center:Car#2- Wizzard solid front end (.356, and swapped off my Wizzard Storm & P2E, when I went independent on the front for both those chassis), with original Mega G rear hubs mounting .460 A.J's silicones. Right:Car#3- Wizzard Independent front (.354), with Wizzard rear hubs mounting .440 silicone coated sponge tires (an old pair I had laying around and just wanted to try).
    Nothing nobody else hadn't tried; the Mega G front end needs to come down, which gets the guide pin a little deeper in the slot and slight lowering overall gets the chassis magnets closer to the pickup rails. I don't have an electric timing system; but I have a "feel" for my layout, and I can see where my particular chassis/body combo has strengths and weakness. I wanted to negotiate those tight chicanes better; THAT was my goal here.

    RESULT: Cars #1 & 2 improved overall on my track with the lower front end combos/ rear tire changes, but the solid wheel/ axle combos DID NOT improve on those chicanes; it was obvious that the solid front wheel / axle combos were binding in the tight radius turns, and still threw the car out of the turn (although the speed through the chicane had improved slightly).

    THE WINNER: Car #3, with the Wizzard independent front end and Wizzard lower profile rear wheel/tire combination. That car (with Peugeot 908 body) has no binding due to those independent spinning front wheels. That made more of a difference than simply lowering the chassis.

    CONCLUSION: I'm going back to Lucky Bob's (it's near my home office), and picking up more independent front ends for my Mega G 1.7 chassis, and experiment further with slightly lower profile rear Wizzard wheel/tire combos.

    DISCLAIMER: This was not a "scientific" test; just a guy tinkering with his cars, trying to make a particular chassis (Mega G 1.7) get around his particular track better than it had before. Layout design/turn radius of a particular track will probably yield different results, as well as any other changes one might be making as well. But it was a relatively simple swap, that made a bigger difference than I first imagined it would. At least in my case, I now know better........
    Last edited by Speedhoppy; 01-25-2019, 08:35 AM. Reason: Added pictures/ sentence revision/correction

  • #2
    Great post and good info. Thanks Speed! Do you have any p/ns for the indy front ends? Have or are you going to try using an indy front with the rest of the car being original yet?

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    • #3
      Great insight into tweaking for sectional track. Thank you.

      Cheers,
      Michael.

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      • #4
        "[the car] with the Wizzard independent front end and Wizzard lower profile rear wheel/tire combination...has no binding due to those independent spinning front wheels." --Speedhoppy

        Cool. A while back I hypothesized (that is, guessed...) that allowing the front wheels to independently rotate might improve the pin-location issues. Glad the platform is working better for you.
        Last edited by Slotbob; 03-10-2014, 07:49 AM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by oneredz View Post
          Great post and good info. Thanks Speed! Do you have any p/ns for the indy front ends? Have or are you going to try using an indy front with the rest of the car being original yet?
          oneredz, I currently have eight of the open wheel Mega G 1.7's, and five of the closed fender (two Audi R10's & three Peugeot 908's) versions. My next step is to put independent fronts on the two Audi's (both with the surplus Wizzard solid fronts), and my other two Peugeots (BSRT solid, and stock version). I will shift the Wizzard/BSRT solid fronts (my term) to some of my Mega G 1.5 chassis, as the pin placement (even with the axle line) doesn't exhibit the front tire "scrub" of the 1.7's.
          As for my open wheel Mega G's, I'm loath to put those skinny wheel/tires exposed; I'm going to look to see if there is a wider independent set up available, or possibly ream out some of my existing wheels and putting retaining caps on the axle ends.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the kind remarks, guys. I know that this might seem like "slot car modifying 101", but sometimes in this scale, you just don't see the forest for the trees. I swapped independent fronts onto my two Wizzard (P2E & Storm), as well as my modified "G-Jet" (put two dot chassis mags back in to run at 22 volts), and used those surplus front ends on my Mega G 1.7's to get the front ends down. But the front ends still popped up on the tighter radius turns when I pushed them hard. I thought about adding the brass front end weights that BSRT has for their cars (have to be glued/or two-sided taped in just behind the front axle, or tapped for a small screw to hold in place), and maybe cutting a coil or two off the pickup springs, but in the end, rejected that. Maybe down the road, Racemasters will move the pin location forward to be even with or slightly ahead of the front axle centerline. But for now, this makes the most sense for my situation.

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            • #7
              Cool Beans Speedy, I like what you're doing....

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JLM Racing View Post
                Cool Beans Speedy, I like what you're doing....
                Yobear, thanks for the kind words & encouragement. I thought I would originally put this on your post, but it was over-long (never learned how to be brief), and it's more of a basic mod than the extensive stuff you are doing. But I read every posting you put out, and look at your albums, and it inspired me started on this little experiment of mine. Thanks for all you do for the rest of us.......

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                • #9
                  That's what everyone who on this board should do ,read stuff here and be inspired to do bench work. That way you see how it works, and your curiosity kicks in and you start asking yourself questions...

                  Thank you for the compliment, but all those on here are exceptional people, we all just come from different angles and we all meet in the center on the same page.
                  Last edited by JLM Racing; 03-10-2014, 07:30 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Postscript: The finished Peugeot 908 LMP1's

                    Here are some shots of the finished project, following my little test:



                    Wizzard independent front ends (.356) with Wizzard rear wheels/tires (.440), drop the center of gravity, bring the chassis mags closer to the track rails for a bit more grip, while the issue of negotiating my tight radius chicanes is solved.

                    Side view shows that smaller diameter wheel/tire combo still fills the wheel wells:



                    Overhead right-hand side view shows not only how beautiful these bodies are, but how they are at max width on the existing Tomy track.....

                    Last edited by Speedhoppy; 04-22-2014, 05:01 PM. Reason: Pictures, additional sentencing

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                    • #11
                      Hi did you guy's ever try the slip on super tires www.supertires.com the new ones that are direct fit for the mega G cars they work really well... another thing I would like to ask why and what magnets do you say to flip to make the car work better why would flipping a magnet make a car work any better?

                      THANKS

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by PPRSLOTS View Post
                        Hi did you guy's ever try the slip on super tires www.supertires.com the new ones that are direct fit for the mega G cars they work really well... another thing I would like to ask why and what magnets do you say to flip to make the car work better why would flipping a magnet make a car work any better?

                        THANKS
                        I have used Super Tires on some of my other cars (like I have used AJ's, Jel Claws, etc.), and they work fine. I just like the results I got with this particular setup on my track, for this particular chassis. There is more than one way to accomplish one's goals, and using other tire/wheel combinations could certainly work.

                        I don't mess with "flipping" the magnets to either "low" or "high" downforce positions; others can chime in on that..........
                        Last edited by Speedhoppy; 04-23-2014, 06:35 AM. Reason: Sentence revision

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                        • #13
                          I just ordered the super tires for the mega g to try them out.

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                          • #14
                            Flippin' magnets

                            Here's a diagram I did a while ago:



                            Do take the rear axle out before removing the magnet. It takes some force and may bend the axle if you leave it in place...

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                            • #15
                              This still don't make sense to me why flipping the magnets will make any difference?

                              so both red marks down will be less down force and both silver sides down will be more down force?




                              Originally posted by woodcote View Post
                              Here's a diagram I did a while ago:



                              Do take the rear axle out before removing the magnet. It takes some force and may bend the axle if you leave it in place...

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