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In search of top end

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  • In search of top end

    Big wood track banked turns with long straight between them then semi tight infield. We are running a stock scalextric 70s trans- am class. Im running the 1972 C3534 Camaro. It goes good for what it is but..... Im lacking top end. A buddy of mine bought the same car at the track took it out of the box put it on the track and it could pull mine on the back straight enough that it makes me uneasy with the amount I would have to make up on the infield section. Any ideas on how to squeeze a bit of top end out? For tires im running M6x on rear and have gone thru the car pretty good. Taller tires at the compromise of handling ?

  • #2
    If you have other 'identical' Scalextric motors, try A/B comparisons of how fast they seem to be spinning when hooked up to a 9 volt battery (out of the car). Build quality can be very inconsistent, so find your best motor to use. Get the most out of that motor by then running it in a glass of water for a couple minutes in each direction, then dry it out (I usually run them for a short time in Isopropyl Alcohol, then let 'em run in the air). Note please that lotsa slotsters don't believe in any of this ...

    Then see if you've done everything possible within the rules to reduce friction both at the front axle and the drive-train including the motor bushings of course. Be sure to use a good lube intended for application to plastics.

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    • #3
      Change your gear ratio. For example, if you're running a sidewinder with a 12:36 (3.00) ratio, change the spur gear to a 12:32 (2.67) ratio and you'll get more top end speed. You won't have as quick acceleration as with a 12:36. I wouldn't use taller tires.

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      • #4
        Good idea Wet coast...I dont have any laying around but I do have some 'identical' motors in other cars hmmm guess I could take them out and test them with a battery. I would have to listen to them as I have no means of getting there true rpm. Ya think I could tell by listening to them?
        B52RN Sorry I didnt make it real clear but only thing we can change is rear tires. But thanks for taking your time to try and help me.

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        • #5
          The fact your buddy's car is faster than your's out of the box says there is something wrong with your car. It could be the motor is a dud -- if so, change it out.

          But let's assume the motor is just as good. Then you need to figure out where power is being eaten up. There are scads of places to look. This would be an opportunity to humbly approach a veteran racer and ask for his help. You'd be surprised at how willing the graybeards are to look a car over and show where things might be improved.

          One thing to check out is the pickup braids. Misadjusted braids will impede power flow to the motor, and maybe put mechanical drag on your car. Braid adjustment is a fiddly art, and the first thing an experienced racer will check. Expert help here will be valuable.

          You should take a squint at the electrical solder joints, to make sure they look substantial and shiny. A bad solder joint will make all your other work pointless.

          Next, look at the rear axle. Are the tires in contact with the body? Is anything else rubbing? Is the axle sloppy in its bushings? Is it straight? Are the gears meshing properly? Are the wheels and/or tires out of round?

          If everything is good at the rear axle you are 80% done. The front axle deserves a once-over. Again, things should not be rubbing. Everything should be straight and round and spin nicely.

          Put the car on a tech block. Do all four wheels touch and roll? A twisted chassis can be corrected.

          Last, put some miles on your car. Most new cars benefit from a period of running in, either on the track or on the bench. Lightly oil all the bushings first. I SAID LIGHTLY DAMMIT!

          My preference is to run the car on a track. Heck, I can always use some practice, and I get to know the car. It helps I have a banked oval track at home, so I can dial in a voltage and just let the car run on its own. I'll adjust said voltage as the car wears in.

          During break-in I'll put an abrasive on the gears, like toothpaste or valve lapping compound, to polish them into a better mesh. This can be overdone, so keep an eye on things and clean off the grit once you have a silky-smooth mesh. A touch of light grease on the gears won't hurt.

          Take a good long look at your car. I've said this before -- if you look you do start to see things!

          Ed Bianchi
          Last edited by HO RacePro; 05-05-2019, 03:26 PM.

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          • #6
            LIGHTLY DAMMIT! lolol,,,I hear ya! I have gone thru the car pretty well. ( I think I may go over it again now) It sit nice on the tech block no twist, front sits nice. I have a track at home that I run it no mag (we race them with stock mags at the club track) so its got some laps on the motor not a bunch but enough to break in the motor I would think. I'll go thru the details once more on it.
            Thanks Ed.

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            • #7
              You should get a non-contact digital tachometer and test the motor. Years ago regular black stripe 18K Scalextric motors were usually good for 21-22K at 12 volts and you would probably have a couple of 23K motors if you tested ten new ones. I suspect that a very few of them were good for 24K. Perhaps three years ago I found that all of the 18K motors were turning 20K, for one of our classes we switched to 21.5K motors so people with older Scalextric motors would not have an advantage. I ordered some Scalextric clone motors from China and those were all 21-22K, Slot car Corner has the Gator motor, those tested at about 21.5K.
              More recently Scalextric switched to green endbell motors, they were not available as replacements, so I was not able to test any of those.

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              • #8
                You can change the gearing but I would check the RPM on the motor first. Those Scalextric Black stripe motors vary from 18K to 22K. he may just have a faster motor than you.

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                • #9
                  You can get an app for your phone that will 'listen' to the motor and give you an RPM rating - I have tested the app against a DS Tools RPM checker and the results are spot on.
                  The app is called - GIRI - the RPM Checker search for it on iPhone or Android App Store

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                  • #10
                    Guys THANKS a bunch for your input !! I have read them all. I did DL that motor app. but It was not compatible with my phone.( nether is the ARC app.) So what i did do to the car was go thru it again. 2 things I found one was gear mesh when I turned it by hand was not real smooth so a worked on that with some compound and low power...feels a bit better. But this struck me, Mine has headlights and taillights and all the extra wiring for that digital plug with the ferret man. I know his did not have the lights (after just looking at his car online C4043) but does have the DPR. wonder if the headlights on my car could be using up power?
                    Its a stock class only change is tires.

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                    • #11
                      Not unless the track is being powered by old wall-warts rather than a good power supply.

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                      • #12
                        Well we had a trans-am race tonight and car did ok got 3rd. out of 6 cars. The top 2 were just better at driving....I guess as those "stock" cars were real fast in the turns. I was pushing it pretty hard but never came off and was beat by 4 laps....sooo Im going to leave this car alone Its running pretty even with the other 3 cars.

                        Thanks for all you input guys!

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                        • #13
                          double post
                          Last edited by wetspot; 05-08-2019, 02:32 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by dangermouse View Post
                            You can get an app for your phone that will 'listen' to the motor and give you an RPM rating - I have tested the app against a DS Tools RPM checker and the results are spot on.
                            The app is called - GIRI - the RPM Checker search for it on iPhone or Android App Store
                            Try this !! I did the same thing. I used a tach and then the GIRI app. NEVER EVER thought the app would have similar results as the tach but it did.

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                            • #15
                              Wetspot -- It sounds like your car is now competitive in the speed department. If that is the case you may want to work on its handling. Could be those other two drivers aren't that much better than you. Maybe they have a bit better tires.

                              If your car has rubber or foam tires you might try using a tire treatment on them. NSR sells a tire treatment that is NOT a tire 'glue'. You put the treatment on the tire and leave it. The treatment will soften the rubber. You can clean any excess off the tire with lighter fluid. (Remember why it is called lighter fluid!)

                              I don't think there are any tire treatments that work on urethane tires.

                              'Nother tire hint. Tires that have been 'glued and trued' on their wheels make a massive difference in the car's handling. Also you may need to radius the edges of those tires. I won't go into the techniques -- you should be able to Google up all that.

                              Ed Bianchi

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