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Best Non Yellowing Clear Coat

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  • Best Non Yellowing Clear Coat

    This issue has been beaten to death, but I post this to see if anybody has heard of any new non yellowing clear coats out there as I am looking to do a final clear coat on a 1/24 ScaleAuto BMW Z4 in the Dorr livery (Studio27 decals with Tamiya TS paint). In the past I have used Future (nice but not that durable), Krylon Clear (non yellowing and hard though may react to decals, especially Pattos, even when applied in very light coats), Tamiya TS clear (non yellowing and hard though may react to decals, especially Pattos, even when applied in very light coats), various Testors clears in the rattle cans (hotter than Tamiya and tend to warp the decals even if applied in extremely light coats) and SEM ProMax clear (now Multimax clear 61073) (a very hard enamel that does not affect even the thinnest decals (very low temperature when going on) though tends to slightly yellow white decals and paint). I intend to use the ProMax clear on the BMW Z4 (I used in on a 1/24 ScaleAuto BMW Z4 in the Red Bull livery) and will apply it in very light misting coats to avoid any build up (yellowing) on the white Studio27 decals unless someone out there knows of a better non yellowing clear to applied over Tamiya TS paint and Studio27 decals. My only concern is that it took me a long time to get all the Studio27 decals (which are kind of pricey) just right (used both MicroSet and MicroSol) and I do not want have them warp or wrinkle with the application of a protective clear coat. Thanks in advance for any input.

    Kind regards,
    Jerome

  • #2
    When you mention Testors have you tried there Decal Bonder?
    I have used it over most decals without any problems.But I do use an airbrush to apply it.

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    • #3
      Yellowing.

      Hi Jeep Enthusiast.

      I agreed with Phil. I have used the debonder to coat homemade decals with no problems. Have had some of these decals for 4-5 years still unused but still in good condition.

      I just use the can spray.

      Regards Chas Le Breton

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      • #4
        Mr. Super Clear UV cut

        You should try a decal bonder like Micro scale then spray your clear over that.

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        • #5
          Hi:

          Thanks for the replies.

          In regards to Testors Decal Bonder, are you using it as a final clear coat over the entire vehicle or are you just using it to protect the decals?

          I do use Micro Set and Micro Sol to get the decals to lay extremely flat - they look like they are painted on. I have not tried the Micro Gloss, Micro Satin and Micro Flat as a final clear coat and would appreciate any input from anyone who has used either of these as a final clear coat (how hard of a protective finish, any yellowing, etc).

          In regards to Mr. Super Clear UV cut, have you applied it over Tamiya TS paints. I can get it on Amazon here in the US though it is quite pricey (about $20 US shipped - about the same price for SEM Promax clear in a 12 oz bottle which is twice the size).

          Once again, thanks for the help.

          Kind regards,
          Jerome

          Comment


          • #6
            I have used the decal Bonder as a clear coat over the entire car.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeep Enthusiast View Post
              Hi:

              Thanks for the replies.

              In regards to Testors Decal Bonder, are you using it as a final clear coat over the entire vehicle or are you just using it to protect the decals?

              I do use Micro Set and Micro Sol to get the decals to lay extremely flat - they look like they are painted on. I have not tried the Micro Gloss, Micro Satin and Micro Flat as a final clear coat and would appreciate any input from anyone who has used either of these as a final clear coat (how hard of a protective finish, any yellowing, etc).

              In regards to Mr. Super Clear UV cut, have you applied it over Tamiya TS paints. I can get it on Amazon here in the US though it is quite pricey (about $20 US shipped - about the same price for SEM Promax clear in a 12 oz bottle which is twice the size).

              Once again, thanks for the help.

              Kind regards,
              Jerome
              Mr. Super Clear works great over Tamiya. Not only have I used it it's the biggest clear seller in our shop.

              Comment


              • #8
                I like to use UPOL from TCP Global. Like a 15 0z. spray can for 18$. I spray it on the decal first and let it sit for a day before I use them. Never had any trouble.

                Free shipping also...


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                • #9
                  When I print my own inkjet decals I always put Testors decal bonder on them. Future is water based and may cause inkjet decals to smear if you brush it on, it is also not very durable and will not protect decals on a car that will see the track. Many clear coats will attack decals, even if you apply light coats. Some clears are so hot that they can attack your color coat as well. It is best to do a test shot when using a new combination of color and clear coats. Paint makers reformulate their products from time to time, a tried and true combination can cause a problem if you use a new can of paint. Since I have had problems with solvent based clears attacking decals I always give them a couple of coats of Future after they are on the car. The Future acts as a barrier to protect the decals from the solvents in many clear coats.
                  For the clear coat I use either Testors or Krylon Crystal Clear.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Nice tip, Rich D. I've had problems, too, and wondered about clearing over Future.

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                    • #11
                      I've found Future to be incredibly durable, and slots I built 15 years ago and coated with Future are still crystal clear with no yellowing. After an accident there's no signs of damage to decals or the clear itself. Back when I used clear paint, if the car rolled over there'd be scratches in the clear all over the roof. I wonder if you're applying it in a manner that yields the same results I'm getting. I spray it on with a Testors Aztec airbrush and the gray nozzle.

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                      • #12
                        I havenít been active in the hobby for a while now, but the cars I dunked in Future nearly 10 years ago havenít yellowed. I just filled an aluminum pan with Future straight out of the bottle, dunked the whole body, let it drip off to kind of self level, repeated once or twice. Seemed to work fine, even over white. Worked fine over inkjet decals, although by the third dunk I did notice the decals were just beginning to soften up.

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                        • #13
                          http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...ictureid=61133

                          The panel lines are decals, seemed to work OK.
                          Last edited by Pinto_Girl; 08-06-2018, 08:13 PM.

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                          • #14
                            It's been a while, Nat.....

                            Cheers, Tony.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have successfully protected decals (including Patto's) from a (very "hot") two-part airbrushed clear coat by allowing them to dry for 12 hours after application and then brushing on two coats of Clear and allowing another 24 hours drying time. I "mist" on the two-part, give it 5 minutes to flash off and then add two full coats - rock hard and no decal damage.

                              EM

                              PS - as noted in one of the posts above, the two-part I use will lift and craze acrylic enamel color coats like Tamiya - I use lacquer from primer on up.

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