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believe motor brushes are weakest link in running 60s vintage toys

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  • believe motor brushes are weakest link in running 60s vintage toys

    does anyone have any replacement sources or diy solutions ?

  • #2
    What type of vintage motor are you looking to find motor brushes for ??

    Cheers
    Chris Walker

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    • #3
      when the brushes go the motor dies
      needed for mostly midsize cans for 60s cox, monogram, and revell
      add in the small can monos and the strombecker and eldons that also need added outsize can mags to power up strong again
      then there are the strange unseen before or after motors
      Last edited by gorp; 03-27-2019, 08:25 PM.

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      • #4
        Hi gorp, If you could post some pictures it would help massively........

        It is very likely that your Cox, Monogram, and Revell motors are either 16D's, or, 36D's......... both take a different size motor brush, but, both NCP Hobbies and Parma stock brushes and springs for these size motors.

        EJ's Hobbies does have some motor brushes and springs for the Strombecker motors (Red,Blue, and Green endbells)

        The Eldons' are another matter, someone may chime in with a lead, but, I do not know of anyone/store that offers these......complete motors are relatively inexpensive on the auction sites, so, you may have luck there.

        Lastly, I am sure that you have checked, but, there are several reasons a motor that has been lying around for several years may not run well,........a good cleaning, making sure that the brushes are not hung up in the hoods, springs are tensioned and attached, check the lead wire solder connection, and a drop of oil, may solve some of your issues.

        Cheers
        Chris Walker
        Last edited by chrisguyw; 03-28-2019, 05:55 AM.

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        • #5
          Thank you for the suggestions.
          They are 16s and 36s and smaller.
          Always thought brush and springs varied between brands of any size.
          Thought ej and ncp closed and parma was gone too.
          Separate used motors have come across are missing the parts too.
          Oh well will check parma first, both it and ncp were about 50 miles away.

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          • #6
            Pretty simple really.

            Most any full sized shop will carry those (see the World Wide Web!). The 16 sized motors are still a "staple" in cheaper cars today. The big 36's have come back into use...a little.
            Professor Motor also carries those.

            The sky isn't falling just yet..!

            Mike

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Mike- View Post

              The 16 sized motors are still a "staple" in cheaper cars today. The big 36's have come back into use...a little

              Mike
              Which of todays cars use 16D motors, specifically ones with the small brushes used in the original Cox/Monogram/Revell etc.16D's ??

              Cheers
              Chris Walker
              Last edited by chrisguyw; 03-28-2019, 08:42 PM.

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              • #8
                With the older 16D and 36D motors the brushes fit into separate heat sinks and those were held in place by the brush hoods. With the newer style motors the heat sinks have been eliminated and the brushes are larger than before. If you can't find the old style brushes you can use new ones that have been sanded to fit the heat sinks.

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                • #9
                  And if you've found some new brushes, check the condition of the commutator first.
                  It seems you're a reasonable experienced slotracer, so maybe you'll find someone where you can "recharge" the magnets.

                  Lots Of slots

                  Hufo

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                  • #10
                    The ceramic magnets in '60s vintage can style motors were sometimes rather weak. My experience with old HO ceramic magnets is that they do not tend to lose strength with time and that getting them zapped may not always make much of a difference. Back in the '60s some motors used Alnico magnets and those do lose strength easily, so most commercial raceways had a zapper on hand. There are a few outfits that will zap your magnets if you want to be sure that they are as strong as possible and even take gauss readings for a small additional fee. Koford zaps magnets in the can, Pro Slot does them in or out of the can.

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                    • #11
                      Thank you all for the info.

                      What usually do here is just pop a pair of mags on outside of can, which seems to solve the weakness problem.

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                      • #12
                        I found this post using the "search" button, I'm also looking for a 16D motor, however, I have yet another problem, the motor I require is a Cox 16D that uses a larger endbell in order to afficx a bell crank to operate the "flipper" wing on a Cox Chaparral 2E. The correct motor is on the left in the pic, the one on the right is a 36D.
                        I actually have a motor, but it heats up and I can't run it very long.

                        I am at my wit;s end trying to find one, any leads would be appreciated.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by blacksheep-1 View Post
                          I found this post using the "search" button, I'm also looking for a 16D motor, however, I have yet another problem, the motor I require is a Cox 16D that uses a larger endbell in order to afficx a bell crank to operate the "flipper" wing on a Cox Chaparral 2E. The correct motor is on the left in the pic, the one on the right is a 36D.
                          I actually have a motor, but it heats up and I can't run it very long.

                          I am at my wit;s end trying to find one, any leads would be appreciated.
                          Hello, The bell crank to operate the "flipper" is attached to the can end of the FT16D motor in your car, not the endbell........assuming you have a Cox 2E with the Iso fulcrum chassis........so......the motor on the left is correct,...you need the separate bell crank piece. Try contacting Electric Dreams, or Brad Blohm at Professor motor.

                          Pictured below is an Iso chassis from a 2E, with the bell crank clearly shown.

                          cheers
                          Chris Walker

                          s-l1600.jpg
                          Last edited by chrisguyw; 05-14-2019, 07:14 AM.

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