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Mixing Epoxy

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  • Mixing Epoxy

    A little ten-cent tip for scratchbuilding...

    I save the lids from food cans. They are ideal surfaces for mixing epoxies! I run them through the dishwasher, then set them aside until needed. Most of the time they get used for mixing small amounts of J-B Weld or PC-7 epoxies. They are rigid enough to stand up to thick pastes. I typically use a toothpick or a Popsicle stick for both mixing and application. I leave the remaining epoxy and the mixing stick on the lid as a guide to when the epoxy is fully set. When the leftover epoxy is hard and the stick is firmly attached I know my job will be safe to handle.

    Of course can lids come in a variety of sizes. If you can score some of the larger sizes they can be handy for bigger jobs, like mixing Bondo for auto body repair.

    Ed Bianchi

  • #2
    Nice tip! HYSOL is great too! I love it because it's easy to measure the amount you want to use, just squeeze the handle.
    Last edited by dinglebery; 05-29-2019, 08:23 PM.

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    • #3
      Agreed! Plastic lids are great for all sorts of gooey messy little messy projects. Like Ed who uses them for epoxy, I also use the lil rascals to hold small portions of rubbing compound for my plastic restorations, as a wet sanding water bowl for small projects, and as a small solvent tank for parts cleaning.

      Last edited by model murdering; 05-29-2019, 10:38 PM.

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      • #4
        I just use a bit of flat plastic and get the same effect if I leave the toothpick in residue. I normally clean off as soon as I am finished however as I reuse. Your idea might be better if you are mixing up larger brews. Regards Chas Le Breton

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        • #5
          I use plastic caps from bottles & jars as mixing cups. They come in many different sizes & store easily. I find the square toothpicks to be stronger than the round or flat. Plastic Q-tip sticks are even stronger, just clip off the ends.

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          • #6
            I also use a variety of caps as mixing vessels and have found that, if I leave the (square) toothpick in the mix, after hardening it lifts cleanly off the plastic surface which can then be re-used. As a general rule, epoxies do not bond well to typical polyethylene. (As I live alone, my kitchen does not yield an excess of caps etc.)

            EM

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            • #7
              To expand a mite on what EM said -- polyethylene and polypropylene are pretty much immune to any glue or solvent. They will even resist strong acids and bases -- which is why they are commonly used for auto battery cases. They are also the cheapest plastics available -- so, along with their chemical resistance, they are ideal for food packaging such as milk bottles.

              Polyethylene is not as strong and rigid as polypropylene. Otherwise they are very similar.

              A close cousin -- UHMWPE, or Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene -- not only shares their chemical resistance but is also very tough, slippery and highly resistant to abrasion. It is used for bushings in wet and dirty environments such as oil drilling, where it outlasts any other bushing material. It's downside is it is not as rigid as most engineering plastics. For most industrial uses it needs to be well supported by more rigid materials.

              Better Living Through Chemistry!

              Ed Bianchi
              Last edited by HO RacePro; 06-03-2019, 03:09 AM. Reason: Corrected HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene) to UHMWPE -- also commonly shortened to UHMW.

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