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  • Cox 16D motors

    There was a post started on these but it never developed. I'm searching for a Cox 16D motor, with the large endbell, for their stamped chassis Chapparal. I will post some pics.
    I currently have a motor but it gets very hot in a few laps, and am afraid it's on the way out.I would entertain the thought of someone rebuilding it

    the 16D is on the left, a 26D is on the right for comparison


    the large endbell facilitates the fulcrum, that "rocks" when the motor is accelerated, operating a rod that, in turn, activates the wing.


    The motor, in the chassis with the rod on the right.


    the rod attaches to the hole in the wing


    I've been working on this project for about 20 years, picking up parts and pieces from yard sales and misc antique stores, a proper running motor is the last item on the list.


  • #2
    The motor may be overheating because the commutator is shorted. Flushing the commutator with spray contact cleaner may fix the problem. If you unhook the brush springs and remove the brushes you can get a better look at the commutator, there should be no build up in the commutator slots. You might have to take the motor apart so you can measure the resistance for all three poles. I do not know what the resistance should be for these motors, but all three poles should read the same. Motors overheat because they are pulling too many amps. If there is a drag on the motor it will overheat, so be sure that the armature spins freely. Otherwise the motor will overheat if there is a short. The less common type of short would be across the windings. The cure for that is to rewind the armature or just replace it. Professor Motor has replacement 16D armatures. Dust from the motor brushes can get caught in the commutator slots, that is more likely to happen if the end bell bearing had been over oiled. If there is dust in the slots and the contact cleaner does not remove it the slots will have to be scraped out using something that will not scratch the commutator. I use the plastic from blister packaging.

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    • #3
      Try RichD's tips on cleaning/rebuilding, and if you don't have any luck, you can find FT16D motors on epay quite regularly. You are looking for a FT16D, NOT a 16D......ALL FT16D's have the large can end bushing housing........16D's do not.

      All stock FT16D motors had roughly the same performance spec. so, if you can't find a Cox TTX150 (their version of an FT16D) you can buy one from AMT, Monogram, K&B, Revell,Classic, etc. and use the Cox can you already have, to maintain the "original" look. You should however check the slop (if any) in the can end bushing on your existing Cox motor......All the FT16D motors had issues in this area........if it is bad, it really should not be used.

      If you are really really stuck, there are a couple of folks that do offer high quality rebuild services for vintage motors.........

      Cheers
      Chris Walker

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      • #4
        The replacement armature that Professor Motor sells has a long shaft on both ends, it can be found in the vintage parts section. In a pinch a modern 16D arm might work, but the shaft might not be long enough. Unless you get a home set type armature a modern arm might pull too many amps. Possibly the brushes and heat sinks would get hot enough to melt the endbell.

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