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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest started a topic What's New

    What's New

    Hi,
    Thought this would be interesting to share an article I wrote on prepping and painting up a vacuum-formed GT40.

    Recently a client of mine ordered a Gulf version of the GT40, and so began working on the car. When finished masking the windows of the body, I realized that I had been working on a car from my reject pile.

    I didn't have any fresh bodies, so was going to have to make a new one for the client. Unfortunately, the mold was in poor shape, so I had to re-work the mold. On previous cars, the headlights had the lense cover molded in. This time, I decided to remove the material from the headlight area and see how the car would look with the light bucket in place.

    So here's some tutorial pictures of the GT40 I made for the client. Recall from the previous paragraph that I started work on a "reject" body? Well... decided that since I had already started on it, sometimes it's best to build up two cars at once. That way I can test my technique on the reject, and use my "honed" skills on the clients car.

    So... here we go. This is a picture looking into my paint room. It's a very small... cozy little room located beneath our front steps. The walls are insulated to cut down the noise, and keeps it warm in the winter. I also have a nice bright halogen lamp and exhaust fan mounted where a window used to be. Works very nice when I'm spraying. Sorry for the yellow/orange cast (halogen's cast a warm hue to everything).

    All images are now here :http://slotcarillustrated.com/v-web/.../SlotCarHeroes

    Image 1

    Here's a picture showing the beginings of the prep work. What's not seen is all the cleaning of the boby prior to the application of the liquid mask on the windows.

    Image 2

    I like to use Parma's #701 product. I've had excellent results with it, 100% of the time.

    Image 3

    This is going to be a Gulf version of the GT40, so this one is going to have the orange stripe down the spine, and that really cool spread across the nose. I created templates on the computer that I cut out and apply on the exterior of the shell. This guides me so I don't goof up too badly when painting on the interior of the shell.

    Image 4

    I use Testors Orange acrylic paint for the stripe. It's proven to adhere extremely well to this kind of thermal plastic, not to mention it's very flexible. It usually takes two or three coats to take away the transparency.

    Image 5

    Now, something I've noticed is that even with three coats of paint, you place a dark color behind the orange and you will still see brush strokes. But if you back-coat with paint white over the orange, it brightens up the surface color and hides the brush strokes.

    Image 6

    Just finishing the first coat of white. I'll add a second coat when it dries.

    Image 7

    Here we're starting on the black outline on the orange stripe. I free-hand all my brush painting. It takes a steady hand to apply thin stripes... plus it helps if the paint doesn't blot and run (you might see some of that happening in the pictures). To cool and wonderful thing about painting from the interior of the car, it's easy to correct mistakes like this if it happens over the clear part. But if it happens over the orange stripe, don't worry about it--no one will see the underside!

    Image 8

    Here's the finished stripes. Believe it or not, this process took all week. This kind of detail cannot be rushed. All the paint has to dry for at least 4 hours before starting the next coat of paint.

    Image 9

    Next installment I'll add more pictures as we paint the interior, add panel lines, and paint the exterior details.

    Thanks!

    Tim Johnson
    Last edited by Scaleracing; 11-17-2008, 12:49 PM.

  • BigDog
    replied
    Excelent read...

    Very interesting and educating Thread: it's a pity that it seems that not only SlideRule but others who have posted on this Thread aren't in SCI anymore - they appear as "guests".

    The reason I'm diggin' this up now is very simple: I just found it today! And it looks to me that lexan bodies can be made into highly detailed cars. I had never seen such a complete tutorial on preparing and painting a lexan body - I myself have done some pretty detailed paintings on lexan bodies in the past, but I have never gone through the trouble of attaching parts to it (hoodpins, rearview mirrors, etc.).

    This is truly an inspiring Thread! My thanx go to SlideRule, even though he probably will never read this, and to those who so wisely put it on the "Sticky Threads" area: excelent read!

    Cheers!
    BigDog
    Last edited by BigDog; 06-08-2009, 01:13 PM.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Archived Article Tim

    Hey Alan!
    The honor is mine!

    Thanks you guys!

    Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • Scaleracing
    replied
    Re: Archived Article Tim

    Hi Larry and Tim,

    I will post these photo's to a Gallery on SCI.

    SlotCarHeroes GT 40 Gallery

    Tim this is a truely great article I am honored to have it on SCI.

    Cheers

    Alan

    Leave a comment:


  • Larry LS
    replied
    Re: Archived Article Tim

    I believe I did get the photo copies but before I say yes, I will have too look it up first, or take them from here again for sure, to have them on hand and check with Alan as to where we could store them for sure. As I am running out of room on my ISP also to store for viewing here. As it will get pruned also soon.

    Thanks for letting me know Tim.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Archived Article Tim

    Hey Larry!
    Good the hear from you! Hope you're doing well.

    I'm glad folks are still looking through it... and maybe learning something for themselves.

    However, on archiving... if you would like to keep the article, you might want to keep copies of the photo's as I'm planning to do some "housekeeping" on the website soon, and these photo's (and links) are likely to disappear.

    Thanks!

    Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • Larry LS
    replied
    Re: Archived Article Tim

    I did archive it in the FAQ Froum but found no sign of after the big EZboard crash I will try to archive it again. But it has been getting a lot of views right where it is and seems complete here yet. So I left it alone right here thanks again.

    I believe I still have a copy here on my zip disk library here. Wish I had a lot of the others stuff also after EZboard's screw up with no backups as they claimed to have.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: So did you mask the windows on the outside?

    Good Grief, this thread's still here?

    It's flattering, but somebody should archive this...

    Tim
    Last edited by Scaleracing; 11-17-2008, 12:55 PM.

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  • DaveKennedy
    replied
    Re: So did you mask the windows on the outside?

    I hadn't seen this before but it's really great. And the hoodpins are a fantastic detail.

    This is a great tutorial that shows all the steps well. It's very informative.

    DK

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: So did you mask the windows on the outside?

    Hi There,
    Wow... been a long time. Thought this thread was archived...:rollin

    Thank you everyone for your comments!

    Hi Steve,
    Yes, the clear finish coats are applied over the entire outer shell. However, on the interior of the shell, the windsreens are masked to prevent overspray from clouding the windscreens. Only after all the work is done are the masks removed. Hope this helps "clear up" the mystery.

    Kind Regards,

    Tim Johnson
    Last edited by Scaleracing; 11-17-2008, 12:55 PM.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    So did you mask the windows on the outside?

    I didn't see you mention masking the outside of the windows. Does that mean you clearcoated over the clear sections of the body?

    Regards,

    Steve C.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Great Work Some helpful Tips !

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    This one fine tutorial, Tim!!!!! What craftsmanship, you certainly can tell that you have been at this for a while. I was tired at the end of the tutorial and I didn't do any of the work! You can tell that you love your work and you are willing to share your knowledge with the rest of us. Thanks for sharing this with us.

    Kevin :drivin

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Cool!
    Good suggestions.

    Thanks!

    Tim
    Last edited by Scaleracing; 11-17-2008, 12:54 PM.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Masterful work!
    At the risk of sounding like an art critic that would suggest Devinci use acrylics here are two suggestions that you might find useful.

    I have painted several gulf cars and use the black Pactra R/C Striping Tape to outline the orange stripes. It comes in a roll with stripes in about 6 different widths. The smallest works great. I tape it on first inside the shell as a guide for the orange paint. It adheres to the body well and and is stretchy enough to make curves as needed. Painting over it with either the orange or gulf blue seals it in place. I have never had any peel away. The main advantage is that you get crisp straight black lines hand painting can't match. I have even cut it narrower and used for door trim with good results.

    Try double decals for your meatballs. I use thin Pattos decals often and get good results by putting one meatball atop the other after allowing plenty of time for the first to dry. That elliminates the see through look.

    Believe me, I'll be using some of your suggestions on my next project.

    Best Regards,
    mcseitz

    Leave a comment:

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