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Side-mount chassis and body float

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  • Side-mount chassis and body float

    Two questions for all the builders:

    1.) When you us a chassis (like the Slot.it HRS) do you use the side-mount (clips?) or mounting post option?

    2.) When using the side-mount option, is body float possible? If not, is motor pod float sufficient by itself?

    Any other issues?

    Thanks...

    _michael

  • #2
    Yes...

    I've used two of the Slot-It HRS chassis. I used both the post on the rear and just the front two side mount pins in the front. I glued all four pin sockets to the body, but for flex purposes, I just used the front and cut off the rear pins, so I have a three point body to chassis mount.

    On other chassis (TSRF), I've used pins (like lexan body pins) also.

    Mike

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    • #3
      I use the same "tripod" method.



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      • #4
        The three point method works well to keep the front planted and still let the rear float. The two post system gives you much more float. That way you have two ways to adjust. The pod can move alone or the body can move alone or they can both float.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the replies. Very novel approaches.

          Would anyone be willing to describe their mounting procedure for obtaining the exact desired position of the body on the chassis with this method? -- especially as it applies to the rear mounting post (i.e., bodies/kits that don't have a usable mounting post).

          _michael

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          • #6
            I usually rest the body on the chassis with a thin piece of wire between the tops of the tires and the wheelwell. This gives me a rough stance when it's done. I use a set screw wrench to probe into the mounting screw hole until it touches the body. I mark it with my finger nail and pull the wrench out. I transfer the length to the cutting block (a tool available from Micro Mark) and set the stop so I can cut the tubing of each diameter the same length. If I mess up, I can go back to the cutting block and make more. I do the same for the front.
            Attach the two posts to the chassis and place it on the set up block to see the ride height and measure any further trim. I also add triangular gussets to the sides of the posts to support them.

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            • #7
              If the body already has a rear body post in the right place I just use that, it might have to be shortened or lengthened to get the correct rear body height. Lacking a rear body post I make one out of styrene tubing. For extra strength I make a gusset using a small piece of styrene sheet with a hole drilled in it to take the tubing. I attach the post to the rear of the chassis first and put the body on the chassis (sitting on a setup block) to check the body height, since there are no front body mounts yet, then I put shims under the front of the body to get the correct front clearance. I make the post a little long to start with and trim it as needed. Once the correct height is established I glue the rear post in place, making sure that everything aligns. The HRS2 chassis comes with pegs that fit into sockets in the edge of the chassis, I glue two of those in place and trim them so that the total width is the same as the body. The HRS2 chassis does not come with the cups that have to be glued to the body. If I have cups left over from the older HRS chassis I can use those, otherwise I can buy them as spares or make my own cups from styrene tubing. In order to get the cups in the right place I first put a little oil on the chassis posts, then I put the cups on the posts and put a glob of epoxy on the outside of the cups. With the chassis sitting on a setup block I put the body on the chassis and put a screw in the body post. I leave the screw a little loose and put shims under the front of the body to get the correct front clearance. I check very carefully to be sure that the wheels line up with the wheel arches and so on. After the glue has dried I remove the body and shorten the posts just a bit and also sand a little off the bottom of each post so the body will be free to rock.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the replies -- and especially for the photos.

                _michael

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